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I'm not going to ask for help diagnosing a slow cranking problem on a specific car I just want to make sure that I understand the testing procedure.  I'm trying to pinpoint the specific source of high resistance that is reducing the cranking voltage to a point that it won't spin the engine fast enough to start.
 
If I connect a multi-meter to the positive post of the battery and the Batt post on the solenoid then crank the engine is the multi-meter displaying the voltage between the two meter probes or is it showing the voltage in the entire circuit?
If it's displaying the voltage in the entire starting circuit it's only confirming what the slow cranking is demonstrating and is doing nothing to pinpoint the specific source. Yes?

If it's displaying the voltage between the two meter probe then it's identifying the location of the high resistance as being in the part of the circuit between the probes , Yes?

Trying to help a friend get and old 6volt stocker up and running and it's really kicking our butts getting it to start from the seat and run down the road.

So in the process of adding A/C to the Woodie I hit a question.  Up until now I've been running two belts, one to the Alt the other to the P/S pump.  The water pump pulley is 6 1/4" diameter, the crank pulley is 6 3/4" and the P/S pulley is 5 3/4".

I'm running a mechanical fan and to hopefully stay ahead of any heating problems I want to change the crank pulley to a 7 1/4" model to increase the fan and water pump speed.  

So far I've installed the 7 5/16" two groove pulley and added a 6 3/4" add-on third crank pulley to run the P/S pump.  By using the smaller diameter add-on pulley I won't be changing the pump pulley ratio. (it seems to perform properly so I didn't want to mess with it).

Question is, by increasing the diameter of the crank pulley to "speed things up" will the A/C Compressor or Alternator be adversely effected by the higher RPM?  I don't remember ever seeing an up sized alternator or A/C pulley.  

If my math is even close my current set up of 6 3/4" crank pulley and 6 1/4" water pump pulley would mean that the water pump pulley would be at 5940 RPM if the crank pulley is at 5500.  With the 7 5/16" crank pulley the water pump pulley would be at 6325 RPM at the same engine speed.  Is this increase anything to be concerned with?  Thnx Mike

I never posted a lotl but visited a couple of times a day just to see what was up.  Then I just kind of fell out of the habit, time passed, you all know how it is.

A couple of days ago I was struggling for an answer to a car problem and thought of all of the real world experience (and smart remarks) that I had seen posted here and gave it a try.

When checking for responses I read through a few of the threads and realized that I missed the personalities (and BS artists) on here.  I have grown a bit weary of the semi-similar boards that rigidly police the subject matter rather than allow the threads to develop in whatever direction they take, not realizing that it's the people not the subject matter that make the board what it is.

I'll stop here before I go too far and some of you start getting weepy on me.  At any rate I'm officially back...Mike H.

Finally getting around to installing A/C on my '41 Ford.  Engine is a generic 350.  Because the engine was installed further forward than is usually seen.  The clearance between the nose of the short water pump and radiator is pretty minimal.  I've been running a two groove pump pulley and a two groove crank pulley. In order to run A/C, PS and Alternator the normal arrangement is to use an add-on single groove crank pulley in addition to the two groove.  
If possible I need to stay with the two groove pulleys because the third piece is interfering with the mechanical fan.  Anyone seen this done or have suggestions on the parts and belt routing necessary to accomplish this?

I use a dial-in timing light to set the timing on the SBC in the Woodie.  I crank in the initial timing number and adjust the distributor until the mark hits 0.  My question is that there is a random flash of the timing light that appears approximately 10 degrees from 0.  I seem to remember seeing it on several different engines over the years.
The distributor is a good quality HEI purchased new, I'm using Jacobs silicon wires, the engine runs like a champ.  No apparent miss, great throttle response etc. etc. The engine has about 1400 miles on it.
Am I seeing spark arcing in the distributor or what, any thoughts.

I just dug these out to show some friends, I'm sure a lot of you remember this.  I was there with my sons in our Model A Sedan Delivery.  Unlike most of the folks we didn't go in the exhibitors building when the storm hit.  We were sitting in the Model A when I noticed an ice chest float by and decided we needed to move.  The boys and I got out and were helping push cars out of the water.  Unfortunately there were too many cars and many flooded before the push crew arrived.  Several of the cars that we pushed were in Park of course but there was enough water that they could be pushed sideways.  A lot of fine cars damaged that day.[/list]

Anyone have access to the torque specs for the front caliper mounting pins on a mid-70's midsize (Malibu).  Thanks in advance

Using 1/0 welding cable for a rear mounted battery in the woodie.  I want to solder the lugs on the cable but in the past my success with soldering large cable has been pretty dismal, burned insulation and other bad stuff.  
Anyone have any hints as far as tinning, flux, heat source etc.  I have a conventional torch with a rosebud tip as well as a Henrob/Cobra/Dillon torch.  Any advice would be helpful.

Finally managed to stick with the job of finishing the woodie long enough to get the engine started for the first time.  The engine had been sitting for 12 years + but I took it back apart and relubed everything and it started up immediately and ran smooth and cool.
I ran it at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes, no leaks no problems.  I then took it up to 2500 for 5 minutes still no problem.  Took it up to 3000 and was going to hold it for maybe five minutes but about 1 minute into that rpm I smelled something and looked down to see power steering boiling up out of the pump.
This is a GM Saginaw power steering box with a matching GM integral reservoir pump.  I had installed a rebuild kit in the pump while everything was apart.  I filled it up to the cold fill mark with GM factory PS fluid a couple of weeks ago and no leaks etc.
The pump puked up enough fluid to make an 18" puddle under the car plus some extra to blow down the side of the engine and frame.  The fluid was extremely hot when it came out.  I'm positive I didn't overfill the pump and I'm at a loss to explain what happened.  Any thoughts?

On an SBC which way do you spin the oil pump to prime the system prior to initial startup?  Or does it matter?

Purchased a Holley many years ago and am just getting around to using it.  The list number from the airhorn is 80504 which isn't mentioned on any Holley list that I can find.  Without a reference number I can't find out the part no. specs etc.
I'm trying to determine what the correct fuel pressure should be and also deciding if I need to replace a fuel tank.  The current tank is a clean stock unit which has the stock 1/4" outlet.  The engine is a mildly warmed up 350 and I don't know if 1/4" is adequate to supply necessary fuel.
Any info would be appreciated.

Time for my semi-annual stupid question.....I'm putting KYB Gas-a-just shocks on my 41 Woodie (no smart remarks please!).  Aren't the rebound and compression rates on these shocks truly adjustable??  If so, how?  The only thing that comes to mind would be twisting the rod.  Maybe it's just a cute name for a shock.  I will say they are VERY much firmer than the shocks I'm removing.

When I was in junior high school (many moons ago) the coolest car in town was a 39 Ford standard coupe with a 265 chevy in it.  It belonged to a fireman in Muskogee, Oklahoma and when he was on duty it was parked beside the fire station for all of the kids to drool on.  Hanging from the rear panel was a car club plaque for the "Quarter Horses - Kansas City".
Many years later after coming home from the service I found the coupe, bought it, spent a ton rebuilding it and finally sold it.  When I found the coupe the plaque was gone and I always wanted to find one.  Even though the coupe is long gone I'd love to find one of the Quarter Horse plaques to remind me of how stupid I was for selling the car.  Does anyone remember this club or better yet have a lead on one of the plaques, Thanks

Well this is car related but not street rod.  My daughters '97 Dodge Caravan has learned a new trick and I need some help diagnosing the problem please.  Occasionally it will not up-shift and simply stays in low gear when pulling away from a stop.  It kind of picks and choses when to do this, but today I took it out on the interstate and kicked into passing gear and it went into passing gear without problem, when I decelerated and tried to kick into passing again it wouldn't go.  I pulled to the side of the road and started off again from a stop and it would not shift out of first no matter what I did.  I asked her what she did to get it to work properly and she said she simply pulled over, turned off the ignition, waited just a second and started off again.  I did that and it worked just fine.  
Trans does not appear to be slipping at all just won't shift properly at times.  Anyone hazard a guess as to the problem.  I feel like the transmission itself is ok and that the problem is more likely in linkage, modulator, vacumm line, electrical switch etc.  I know less than nothing about transmissions and particularly anything other than a Th-350 or P-Glide.  Would really appreciate some guess's she's not in a position to buy a transmission right now.  MH

Have a good friend (restorer type) that is getting ready to shoot some PPG DP-50LF primer and Dura-Cryl DDL-117 Acrylic Lacquer on a Model A Rdstr/PU.  He has a decent HVLP gun but has NEVER shot anything.  Anyone care to share tips, advice etc. please post here and I'll relay info to him.  Has no idea about pot life, how long to wait before color sanding, how heavy or light to shoot, viscosity etc.  Any help appreciated.

Ordered the new Hopup and the Hopup special some time ago, have emailed (nicely) trying to find out if there is a problem, delays etc.  Can't get a response of any kind.  Anyone else having a problem with delivery?  Has always been real slow but never this bad.

Running a Tilt GM van column key in dash in my 40 P/u. Was trying to align the steering wheel so that it is in the correct position when running straight.  Isn't there a clip or some kind of retainer that would hold the grant adapter and plastic horn contact down against the spring pressure while you complete the installation of the wheel itself.  As it is, I remove the three 7/16 bolts that hold the horn contact to the wheel, remove the center nut and the whole thing, adapter and all spring off the column.  A blowup diagram would be real useful.  Thanks.

a company in Arkansas called Thermodyne Intakes or something to that effect.  I may be off on the name of the company but that was the name of the product.  It was an intake manifold and holley carb combination.

I don't recall who on the board is the Crosley guy but this link ought to interest them.

http://cgi.ebay.com/1950-CROSLEY-HOTSHOT-TETHER-CAR-PLANS-RARE_W0QQitemZ150016714869QQihZ005QQcategoryZ19168QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Getting ready to install a cowl vent seal on a 40 ford, is "gorilla snot" still the adhesive of choice or would I be better off to set it in a bead of silicon.  Or

Any of you folks who have been to Lincoln recommend good restaurants.  Particularly BBQ. Thnx

test

Saw this posted on a streetrod classified advertising site.  Click on the picture of the engine and tell me what this guy has done to his engine.  I've sent this to a couple of car buddies and we're all guessing.  Is it a joke or is it real. I don't know how to post a website to this board but please cut and paste this url and post back if you have a clue. http://www.streetrodding.com/sr/index.cfm?&fuseaction=dsp.cars&id=17024&showpic=95018

Sad to report that a well liked top alcohol pilot, Shelly Howard, was killed in a really freak accident two days ago.  At around 200mph the front of the digger got air, lifted, did a 180 and headed back toward the starting line.  If that wasn't enough it collided head on with the chase truck...... the driver and her son in the chase truck were both killed in the accident.  Geez, what a sad day for racing and a bizarre accident

Does anyone know if Madson is still in business and if so a contact # or address. Thanks, Mike - 41woodie

Ok, the Quadrajunk on my '54 Pontiac breathed it's last I just installed a rebuilt. I didn't rebuild the old one because it was missing all of the divorced choke mechanism including the choke plate.  Amazingly it started easy and ran well until it started leaking like a seive.  
The Pontiac has an electric fuel pump due to clearance problems around the mechanical pump location and I think that part of the flooding problem stemmed from excessive fuel pressure. There isn't a regulator on the line.  Can anyone get me in the ball park as far as correct fuel pressure for a quadrajet, I'm pretty convinced that a regulator is needed to prevent the problem I was having. Thanks, MH

Ok, got the choke straightened out on the pickup, so today I'm going to tackle the quadrajet on the Pontiac.  It's either so rich that the engine is choking down and dying or it's leaking pretty bad.  Either way it's time to either pitch it in the trash or fix it.  Do quads have a reputation as leakers?I've always had pretty good luck with Performers since there are no gaskets below the fuel level.  Anybody have an opinion on Quadrajets?

Ok, how bout a bit of help.  I run an Edelbrock Performer on my pickup and have been wrestling the electric choke all winter.  Is there a rule of thumb or whatever for adjusting an electric choke.  Right now all I can get out of the thing is a lot of coughing and burping when I accelerate. On a rare day in the 50's or 60's (temp not decades) It's fine after well warmed up.  I thought that you should be able to pump the gas once, which should set the choke closed.  Then after starting, the heat coil in the choke body would warm up and open the choke. But I don't seem to be able to find a starting point that will allow this to happen.  Either the choke never opens or never closes.  Any thoughts

In the past I have experienced the thrill of having a single axle trailer sway violently side to side while towing.  Is the problem with the front to rear weight distribution?? or what?  I'm getting ready to buy a 6x10 cargo trailer and really don't want to relive this experience.

Has anyone received the most recent HopUp.  I've ordered all of the others and they showed up just before Christmas, but this years has been a no-show so far!  Anyone got the poop?

I have to pull the engine out of the woodie and as usual will be working alone.  Does anyone remember a "tilter" mechanism being sold under the name "Tryk Myk" it looked like a handy item for getting an engine to the correct angle when removing or installing.  Can't find that name on the web.  Anyones memory better than mine??

Ok, the wiring woes on the Woodie continue.  Several sources state that on a 10si 3-wire GM distributor w/int regulator you can simply tie the #2 feed directly to the Batt post on the alternator and eliminate some wiring.  I remembered that two of the wires from the alternator were already tied together under the dash so I thought to myself, Self, why don't we just fix a pigtail between #2 (the one shown in most schematics to go to the horn relay) and the batt post and get rid of the extra wire.
Sounded easy but when I traced the wires back to find the two that were tied together it was the wire from #1 and #2 that were tied spliced and run to the Accesory feed on the Ron Francis panel.  What the heck?? Remember this is on a car that was running and driving and charging correctly.  Can someone enlighten (get it, "enlighten") me on why these should be tied together.
Most schematics show #1 going to the ballast resistor and #2 going to the horn relay where it joins the wire from the batt post on the alternator. This seems to be getting worse instead of better today.

Ok, long story not so short, the '41 Woodie has been sitting for several years while I got myself back together again.  I finally worked up the nerve to start to work on it and spent the day trying to sort out, and refresh my memory.  This was a running, driving car for several years when I tore it down to install new engine, trans etc.  and you all know the rest, the project ground to a halt (as they often do)

I started sorting through the wiring today and not much made sense.  I didn't do the original build but have added to the wiring over the years and thought I was fairly familiar with it. WRONG!! - The more I looked at it today the less sense anything made.  So out of desperation I got out the Ron Francis instruction sheet that I got when I swapped for the car many moons ago.  The instructions didn't seem to match the wiring on the car and after looking at the sheet I noticed that the serial number of the Ron Francis kit was written on the instructions and that the instructions were for a Ford engine, GM 1-wire alternator, points & condenser ignition and an Amp-gauge....... that's just fine and dandy but the car has a 350 chevy, 3-wire alternator, HEI and Voltmeter.

To my knowledge the Woodie never had a Ford engine (other than the old flathead) so I don't know if it did at one time or the guy that wired it got the kit on the cheap and modified it to work.  Who knows what the story is but it is sure taxing my limited electrical knowledge.

Does anyone have a set of RF instructions for a Chevy installation? I'm going to call RF tomorrow morning and cry on their shoulder.  I'm beginning to wonder if it might be easier to tear this mess out and start over.
Any thoughts on how to make the best of this bad deal??MH

Ok, I have this great engine test stand and I'm getting ready to pull the new engine in the woodie (it's been sitting a long time), and fire it out of the car.  Can anyone describe or post a sketch of the necessary wiring for the engine.  It's a 350 w/HEI distributor.  Also, I'd like to hook up a tach to monitor RPM during cam break-in.  Won't the tach lead on an HEI hooked to a tach be all that's necessary?  Any special thoughts on firing a new engine that has sit for about 5 years.  It has Seal-power rings, roller lifters, balanced, Comp cam etc. and hopefully it's not a large cubic block of internal rust.

In the last few months I remember seeing an article in one of the mags discussing shimming a misaligned Chevy starter.  Do any of you other memory challenged types happen to remember what/when magazine.  I've got problems on my pickup and starchief. MH

Going to Kansas City for the Big XII Championship game in December. One of my loves is fine Barbecue.  Anyone from the KC area or wherever give me any suggestions on best places ie   Winslows, Arthur Bryants or others.  Been on a diet since first of September and ready to celebrate.

Ok, it didn't take me long to work up my nerve to ask a stupid question.  My '64 ford pickup has a Grant GT steering wheel on it ( the type with 8 allen bolts in the face.  The horn button spring failed and I need to get to it to repair/replace.  I've looked all over the thing and used as much muscle as I dared but can't get the horn button off.  Is there a trick to this?  25 years ago I would have kept at it until something broke, maybe I'm getting smarter or lazier. MH

Someone was nice enough to ask me to post pictures of my present cars. (I thought you'd never ask)!!  Hope I do this right.

Just registered on this site after lurking for a while.  Seems like a good crew with a ton of accumulated knowledge.  Doubt that I'll contribute much to the knowledge base but it won't stop me from trying. Looking forward to getting to know the personalities better.
I just tried to register on the RRT fellow pages and it comes up "Internal Server Error" stating that something is amiss at the RRT server. Anyone know if this is an ongoing problem?