Topics

The front clip is one of the last things to go on, so put them up out of the way. I think it is garage art but some say "* for car guys"

Frank can tell me if this should be posted elsewhere, but it is a hot rod..I think. A retired Tucson circle track guy made one for his grandkids and word got out, he made more and so I got the last one, the 12th. I call it a scaled down sprint car but he says it was called a roadster What you would see at Manzanita in the early 70's.  
Anyway the kids wore out the tiny toy car electric motors in a few days so I need to re motor it. Thinking of a car starter and a pulse modulated motor controller and a small gel cell 12V battery. Grandkids are 5 down to 2 so it doesn't need to be fast. Motor and battery need to be behind the seat so not a lot of room.
Suggestions ?

My daily is a 71 F100 short box, 5.0 injected, computer, AOD.  Good A/C and fun to drive, but it is crippling me. I am not overly tall (5'11") but cramped legs and too close to the steering wheel.   Thought about cutting away some of the seat back springs in the stock bench but also considered a later model where the seat back looks thinner. Still have the stock tank behind the seat, but it doesn't take up much room,  it is the thickness of the seat back.  Any suggestions on a late model that might fit OK ?  A Ranger would not be wide enough would it ??  Dodge Dakota ?

I have a '95 LT1 case iron engine, walker brass rad and lots of aluminum on the front of the engine. Perfect storm for dissimilar metal corrosion.  It has sat for several months with just water in it as I work on wiring and headlites and so I drained it. Very yucky black green goo. I flushed with the garden hose but still see gobs of semi solid white corrosion in around the thermostat housing. Any suggestions on flushing and what to put in for coolant.  The premixed or straight antifreeze...and are they all the same ?

Getting back to work on the 34 and doing wiring of fan, horns, etc and looking for a place to put the relays....one thing led to another and I should mount the headlights too.  I have the original rough front fenders but that will take years so I'm running rear fenders only for now.   Maybe a hood top only. Yes I know the grill needs to be more upright, the fan is in the way and I'll get it corrected,  but which headlights would you use?  I'm kinda leaning towards the big stainless originals but would like some input.  Also any advice on signal lights ?  If I use the painted little headlights with the tiny light on top then there is my answer.  I only have one but I think they are available ??

Did some house cleaning in my shop and have decided to get rid of years of rod magazines.  Street rodder and rod action back to the early 70's and a few others.
There are 6 or 7 rubbermaid boxes, so too heavy to ship.  Will deliver to anyone in the Phoenix area.
Free to good home, like a puppy.

Not really OT as they are different and have some hot rod ideas.
A buddy just bought a big cabin cruiser,2006 vintage, and since it was twin screws I was keen to see what it had.  Mercruiser and so I expected an LS2 or LS6,  but no it had the old std small block chevy ?? Actually two of them and yes one of them ran backwards.  The decals on the valve covers said 6.2 liter.........which is about 380 cubic inches. What gives  Or is this our 383 small block?  Factory ? It was fuel injected of course and looked a little like the LT1 of the mid 90's.  Is this the original RAM JET or it's descendent ?  Very cool looking injection system.  Any one know if they made them closed loop which would be a good street setup.  Mass air flow ? I'd grab a computer if that was the case.
I think he said they were 380 ponies each.  They had wet exhaust but did not use the lake water for cooling.  Each engine had it's own sealed system, aluminum radiator and electric fans.  I assume this was to get around the salt water corrosion problem,  but then why not use the later LS2 thru LS6.  They are proven tough by now aren't they ?
A lot of trick wiring and mounting brackets...........is there a junk yard for boats ?

My 79 yr old mother has a Rivi with this engine......yea I know she doesn't need a blower.  About a 98 vintage,  anyway she lives up in Ontario Canada and I'm in AZ and she has told me that the front bearing on the blower is howling and service said $1000 just for the rebuilt blower.  She can't afford that and asked if I could do something about it on my next visit.  Car has 110K miles so no surprise on the bearing.  A junkyard one may also be noisy.  Is it a big job to change the bearing ?  Or does that mean that the rotors are also worn out.  But then she is not concerned with 0 to 60 times or smoking em off the light.  Advice ??

Some of you guys who were in the service might recognize these,  often called Cannon plugs.  Those in the picture are old style and also known as AN connectors for army navy.  They have a threaded coupling.  The other pieces in the pics are backshells / cable clamps.  I'm in the mil spec connector business and have often thought that these would work out well on the old timey hot rods......or on a modern one too.   I have a few,  maybe 5 or 10  mated pairs of these in the pic.  10 and 24 contact.  Kinda about what you'd use on a hot rod and they will take up to 16 gauge wire.  The wires solder to the back end of the contact on this type of connector.  The contacts are silver plated which is old timey and even though they are tarnished with age they will still solder fine with some flux.  Silver oxide is conductive.   The more modern types are gold plated which is what I have on my truck. Those pics later.
Anyway there is a set of each on the way to enjenjo for his evaluation and I'm sure he'll post his comments.  He should have them by May 28th or so.  We can take it from there.
Would like some input from others on where you'd use these on the hot rod and what wires and wire gauge.  The size 16 contacts in these will take 15 amps under mil spec conditions which is -55C  to +125C.  Maybe I can come up with a few stds that will work in our hot rod world and we could get the price down reasonable (affordable).

Yes we have all beat this to death I know.....but  I have a paint / dirty shop with roof only, no walls that is 110 feet from my main garage. Do not want two air compressors so an air line is the only way.  Different wrinkle here is that I will bury it underground.  Can't use black pipe or copper because of corrosion and copper is way too many $$$.  Leaves galvanized pipe or.........the taboo  PVC .  I think the safety issue is OK as it will be 18 inches underground and where it comes up I'll switch to steel.  It will also cool and so help dry the air with proper drain lines.  I'll have a ball valve where it leaves the garage and only have it on when needed,  painting or whatever out in the dirty shop.  Notice I'm in AZ  so no concern with freezing and little rain also.
Would you use PVC

Daily is a 71 Ford short box styleside, yes AZ virgin sheetmetal. Nice driver, 5.0 HO Mustang engine with AOD.
Anyway, I was always annoyed by the wavey woopy hood, assumed that someone had sat on it at one time in the flat area.  So when the local pick a part got in a long bed with mint hood, I was all over it. $25 and perfect, original paint.  Removed the trim and emblems, welded up the holes,  blocked it out.  Wow this was looking great.  Should clean and paint the underside too.  Now really looked nice........but noticed it had a kinda flimsy feel to it.  Oh look .....there is some of that foam insulation in a spray can stuff.  You know ....for filling cracks in houses around the doors & windows.  Yea,  that'll give the hood some "body".  Five cans later I had a really solid hood and a foot of the lightweight "balls"  on the floor.  Carved the excess bulges off with a hacksaw blade.  Nice......sit  back with a cold one and admire it.....
Next day, flip it over to block it out one more time..........and you know the rest of the story...........wavey like a rolling sea.......Bulged up wherever there was a filled web in the hood.
 Now how does one remove that stuff??? Torch and burn it out .....blister that nice paint?  Or add 1/4 inch of bondo and block it some more......cracks later from the heat ?
Or paint it and install it and say ....oh well it is just an old truck?  What would you do ?

I am wiring up the a/c circuit from scratch,  71 Ford pickup with 5.0 L Mustang engine and the late model a/c compressor.  I have +12 volts from the fuse box to the blower motor rotary switch then to the evaporator thermocouple switch and then to the coil of the relay.   Other side of relay coil is grounded.   The main contacts of the relay send fused +12 volts to the clutch on the compressor.  I'm sure of all this so far.
Question is........what about the cycling or pressure switch in the freon line ?   If I wire it into the coil side of the relay  then the relay is constantly opening and shutting and will wear out.   If I wire it into the load contacts of the relay then the cycling / pressure switch sees all of the  clutch coil current.  How much current does the clutch coil draw ?
What would you do ?

I'm sending an 84 Ford 1 ton flatbed up to fathers farm in southern Ontario and was planning to use one of those auto transporter outfits.  It will cost considerable and so I thought I'd post in case anyone from the Ohio / Michigan or so area wanted a road trip.  Good driver (no a/c)  and you could haul a lot of parts with it.
Arizona to Detroit or Buffalo area   Any interest ?

Have a neighbour who is quite a character, retired grey beard of course,   who has a 69 Chevy pickup since new.  Now since it has been in the dry desert all its life,  it is in great shape.
Anyway,  the original 3 on the tree shifter is sloppy and locks up.  We all remember those from the day.  Most guys went to a floor mounted Hurst or so and he is aware of that but wants to keep it original.  He needs the column and shifter rebuilt and rebushed but can't find a source to do it for him.  He is automotive handy,  but thinks  that this is a bit too much for him.  He is willing to pull it and ship it off to someone but needs a recommendation for quality and reasonably timely.   Grumpy is local but just told him to put in a floor shift.
Any suggestions ?
thanks

On a 460 Ford motor I can't get the accelerator pump to squirt.  The passage from the pump through to the squirters seems to be plugged.  The pump lever will not depress when all together as a carb.  I pulled the bowl and metering block and it will squirt through the brass tube,  you know the one with a little o ring on each end.    I look up un the body of the carb and seems like there might be a ball bearing in there,  but can't see for sure.  I don't see how to get into the body or the squirters.  Anyone else solved this in the past
It is a single pumper, single feed and probably the stock factory carb.  Vacuum secondaries.
thanks

My buddy died 3 yrs ago and left a stock 41 Willys SEDAN.  His wife has never really recovered from his passing and the Willys was a very sensitive subject so most friends have not even mentioned it.  They married as teenagers and a 41 Willys was their first car.  He was not a major hot rodder,  but as the years went by he found a 2 dr sedan and restored.  Him and his wife actually worked on it together and she did the upholstery.  He was a member of the national Willys club and got some press there when he challenged a well know gasser coupe to a drag race, It actually happened and the magazine printed photos.  The guy was a major character and everybody knew him.........larger than life.   I got to know him well not through hot rods,  but through family get togethers and pool parties,  his kids and mine.  After his passing my wife became close friends with her and we see her often and she has joined us for the occasional social outing and has travelled with my wife.   The Barrett Jackson auction is coming up here in 2 wks and today out of the blue she asks my wife if I would help her take it to the auction and sell it!  
Well, I'm  very down on this auction.........waaaayyy too expensive costs and commissions and way too much pressure  plus I think that she may regret it later.   My personal feeling is that she should advertise it in the Willys club and let one of them give it a good home.  He was well respected and I'm sure she would get fair value.  Should I advise her that way or shut my mouth and help her drive it across the auction block ?

It is a bone stock 41 sedan,  all steel and no repro parts to my knowledge.  Even the grill is an original cast item.

Been working on this 71 Ford pickup for 6 months and got the 5.0 HO running tonight sorta.  Spent the last 6 weeks rewiring for the A9P computor to run the MAF and all other stuff.  All factory stock,  but no smog pump.  Did keep the EGR system.
Well it fires immediately and then quits in about 3 secs.  It is running out of gas.  I know this because if I switch the key on and off numerous times and fill it with fuel it runs another fews second longer.  If I hold the start on when it is stalling it will still not keep running.  Is the computor not opening the injectors or is it something with the fuel pressure regulator seeing vacuum and then dropping the pressure too low?
Injectors can't be clogged with old gas could they as it always starts ??

Just finishing off a project and putting in the relays and notice that I see relays used a lot and yet little or no fuses.   Do see a lot of fuseable links but
Do the auto relays have built in fuses and if you pop one then you just replace the relay?  Most relays are rated for 25  or 30 amps  so if you exceed that in a short does it burn open the contacts or ? Am using the GM type D4227 is one set of numbers and 12088567    D00   are the other numbers.  They are rectangular relays about 5/8  x  7/8  by 1 inch high  with just 4 contacts.  What is the amp rating of this one?

OK I give up.  Can't figure out what I've got as the info on the net has me confused.
Bought a junkyard low miles 5.0 HO Ford with attached automatic transmission.  Pulled it myself to get all the extras.  Junkyard said that it was a 93 Lincoln and I took their word for it.  When I started getting parts for it the NAPA guys said that no it was not a 93 Lincoln,  serpentine belt was different.
Anyway, I've got it installed in a 71 Ford pickup and am working through the wiring harness for the fuel injection.  It runs.....sorta but that is a separate issue.  If the trans is an  AODE then I need to wire it to the computer for it to be shifted.  If it is an not AODE then
One of the internet site said to count the pan bolts.  16  for an AODE / 4R70W     and 14 bolts for a plain AOD.    Well I just counted them and it has 14 bolts in the pan.  It does have a TV cable and I have not touched it.  It does have the speed sensor, 2 pin connector on the tailstock.   What has me confused is that it has an extra round connector above the shifter shaft.  This round connector was what made me think it was AODE.  It is round and has 4 pins and a space for a fifth that is not there.  This round connector is / was in the Lincoln wiring harness but I'm using a Mustang harness for MAF  (another subject) and that connector is not in the harness.  I am using the Mustang computer for an automatic Mustang,  supposedly a 90 model but again I'm taking someone elses word for it.
What have I got  AOD   or    AODE  or  4R70W  and what is the extra connector for ??
thanks

Building a 72 Ford pickup for a daily and today brought home a Ford 5 liter and AOD with all the accessories.  It is out of a 93 Lincoln.  Was stripping off the misc stuff that won't be needed and see that there are steel lines from the back of the heads going into a valve of some sort that is plumbed to the smog pump.  Are  there exhaust gases coming out the back of the heads ??   Can I cap them off ?   If I can't get a shorter serpentine belt then I'll run the smog pump as is but no lines on it.  Will it last or should I put some oil in  it and cap it off.
Also,  any suggestions on a gas tank with integral pump that will fit along the frame.  Short box.
thanks

Considering a 64 Ford pickup for a daily, small block and auto trans,  but concerned with switching over to power steering.  Don't want to do the ram thing, as was stock back then,  but will a conventional power box from a newer one bolt up?  Lot's of mid 70's trucks in the junkyards to pick from,  will look for disc brakes too.
I'll pass on this if the steering is a major project.

I've got two projects in the works and absolutely no idea what color to do them.   Last two projects were banana yellow and irmine white and was happy with both of them but ...............
Saw a new PT Cruiser today that was a custard / caramel yellow.  Made me want to get a spoon and dig in.  First one I've seen,  anyone else seen that yet?
I've never been good at picking colors,  we have a BIG 38 Ford truck that pulled a BIG trailer with all the kids when they were young.  Travelled all over every summer.  When first built in the early 80's I painted it deep maroon and my wife hated the color.  Shortly thereafter I had it apart to change motors and the front clip and running boards where set off out of the way up on saw horses.  It took me a few weeks and one day while I was at work my wife saw her opportunity................went to the paint shop and very flamboyantly said " match my nails"  and held out her freshly painted fingernails.  They mixed her a gallon,  she loaded the spray gun per their instructions and when I got home from work she was in the back yard.........in her bikini (wow figure then) .............just laying on the final coat.  I've got pics as proof............  I'm sure Crosley has seen this beast around town with the maroon cab  and ................HOT PINK  front clip.    
That was years ago and the hot pink has faded to a pepto bismol color,  but ...............it's different.
How do you guys pick a color ?

I row the gears in my daily and it's no fun cause of bad clutch chatter on take off no matter haw gently I try it.  Been living with this for over a year and was stumped on the cause.  First assumption was the pilot bearing of course,  but it showed no wear.  Put in a new one anyway and still had the chatter.   Thought it might have been the Lakewood bell off center so swapped it for a factory bell and new clutch at the same time.  Was better for a few hundred miles,  but now back to chatter.  Is really shaky  in reverse.
Could it be that the trans input shaft does not stick out far enough to ride in the pilot bearing   I'm not familiar with manual trans,  but is there a thrust bearing or spacer that could be missing and cause the shaft to be too far into the trans  ?   Also the thing shifts great until I try to slip it into 4th.   Then there is always a crunch.  Not a grind,  just a crunch.  Double clutching going into 4th helps,  but not always.
I'm tired of laying on my back lifting this thing in and out so before I do it again ..........educate me.

Can't find a decent Chevelle site with tech info like this one is for hot rods.
Daily is a big block 66 Chevelle and am trying to get a/c hooked up.  Need a recommendation on an aftermarket compressor (Sanyo or Sanko or something like that ?)  Have the original brackets for the old A6 but I need cold a/c so want an upgrade.
Have been saving an original fan shroud and went to put it on today with a 6 blade fan and the shroud doesn't fit exactly.  Close,  but the mounting holes are 1/2 inch off and it touches the lower pulley.  It's an unmolested original so maybe is for a different year or maybe my rad is from a different year.  I really don't want to cut it up so maybe yall know of a chevelle or GM site with tech info or traders.

34 Ford coupe does not leave too many options on where to put the ignition switch.  I had the wiring partially done with the switch under the drivers seat facing forward,  but now am having second thoughts.  It may be too awkward there and so have figured how to mount a switch partially sideways on top of the steering column just back of the dash.  Clear as mud???   Well it is very close to Henry's original location,  but without the column lock.   I think this will be ok,  but brings up another question.   What switch / lock to use.  Had a mid sixties chevelle switch to use,  but it is waaaayyyy  too big and bulky.   Looked a few marine boat types but they seemed too cheap.  Any advice???    Saw Skip on here earlier and figured he has been down this road.  What yall use for an aftermarket ignition switch / key??

The 34 coupe is out getting some work done so have moved on to an old project from the sidelines.
Have a dash that is normally spot welded to the firewall structure,  but had problems with rust where the spot welds were.  I have redone the area and cut out / replaced all the rust and have a new dash to go in.  If I weld it in then rust will restart in the welded areas.  I know there is some 3M  weld thru no rust goop but I'd prefer to use some of the structural adhesives that new cars are put together with.  That way I can weld the ends and paint that area (POR15)  and use the epoxy for the main part of the dash.  This will seal it plus there will be no paint burned away for rust to restart.
Any recommendations on the "goop" ?   One part epoxy or two part ??  Polyurethane or epoxy or ?   Have tried the home depot construction adhesive like liquid nails and it is a maybe but wanted some first hand recommendations

Need a new starter for a BBC and before the parts guy asks my what make, model and year,  I'd like to give him a NAPA p/n  for the new style high torque permanent magnet one.   168  tooth flywheel, staggered bolt pattern.  Anybody know the number?  Pricey ?

Just bought  a 39 ford truck cab off the bay and am now looking for recommendations on trucking companies to get it home.  Even though it's just a cab,  it is too much for greyhound and yet not worth calling a car hauler.
Any experiences here?  I know the other board talks about a relay,  but I've not registered there or even thought of an "acceptable"  intro.  
zzebby

I've seen that there are at least two of these being built by members here and so did a double take when I saw one poking out of a neighbourhood garage.  Stopped and spoke with the owner's wife.  As expected it is hubbies pride and joy,  a 27K mile one owner that he is redoing.   Saw the duct work and brake booster and recalled Enjenjo's reworked unit and realize what he was doing.
I've sent him a link to this site,  maybe we'll get a new member.
eightsecondart@cox.net   is his addy.

Maybe a bit OT  ,  but .....have a old rumpedy rumpedy 396  BBC that was built up in the 70's  with a long duration, high overlap cam.  Was fun to drive at first but now it needs to be more of a daily.  Stick shift 4 speed, 66 Chevelle with 3.55 gears.   Now is stock intake and quadrajet, headers, stock heads with hard seats and a .030 overbore.
I'd like a bit more cam than the stock one,  but I've been out of this performance spec area for some time so need to know what is todays "accepted" cam specs or maybe even a recommended grind.
thanks

Pics of the 34 coupe on the next post.......if I can figure out how to reduce size............
zzebby

Bought this stripped 4 dr just to cut out  the dash and hate to send it to the crusher.  Tried to find a GTO web site to advertise it but they are mostly BS and wanted to send me junk emails to register.  Anyone know a GTO site that is real ??
There are good  FOUR DOOR quarters , good floor and trunk pans and frame if any body wants it.   Does have cruise control that I can't decide if it's factory or not.  Little box says Dana on it and some parts are painted the factory semi black,  but other parts look like cheap add ons.
In Arizona, near Tony.

Need some advice on spark plug wires that (1)  resistant to header burning  and (2) have some adjustment to the angle that they point away from the plug.
Have a BBC where some of the wires touch the header.  I know that I'll need to dimple the header with a well placed ball peen blow,  but what brand stands up to the heat best ?
Some plugs will need a straight on boot and others will need a 45 or 90 degree angle boot so this will be a "make it as you go kit".  I assume I'll buy an unterminated kit so that means I'll need a crimper and some of them I've seen are really quality challenged.
Wjhat works for you??

Any advice on heat shields.........ala factory type or ?

zzebby

Need another set of wheels on the road and the 34 lost out to the 66 Chevelle. Closer to drivable.  
Starts right up but won't idle below about 1500 - no tach, estimate only.
Before I get into the carb,  it's a 396 engine,  freshly rebuilt,  .030 overbore, stock heads, four tube headers, muncie 4 speed.  There is a very lumpy cam that is at least 20 years old.  Don't know the specs,  but as it's old timey, it's probably long duration with lots of overlap.
Anyway, I looked long and hard for an old quadrajet that was pre emmision style and finally found a 70 vintage (by the purist's  number decoding).  Rebuilt by one of those cheapo sweatshop carb rebuilders.  Ran,  but only with the throttle stop turned waaaaay in.  Primary butterflies open about 1/8 inch.  Played with the idle mixture screws but they had no effect,  even screwed all the way in,  no change.
Now I'm no carb expert,  but found a manual on old qjets and read up on the idle circuit.  Seems that gas is sucked up from behind the main jets to the top of the body then sideways to a down tube which goes into the idle mixture screw opening.  Book said that there may be extra air introduced  but  I didn't see where.   Well I traced this circuit thru with a fine wire and then blew it with compressed air and all seems clear.  Checked the gaskets and they seem to be compressing normally so the case is not warped.  The rebuild shop had epoxied over the soft plugs and it was a bit messy,   but I have no flooding problem.
Kind of stumped so am asking the rrt  if it's possible that the lumpy cam will not creat enough vacuum to suck fuel thru the idle circuit.   I had a similar cam back "in the day" (latest buzz words)  and yet still could idle under 1000.   Any words of wisdom or experience out there ??
Hate to pull the cam at this point, especially if it's something else.   Do have a later model  quadrajet with lots of emmission extras...........could throw it on,  but it's been in the corner more than a few years
Suggestions?

Working on two rods at the same time,  trying to get one on the road for that psyco  high,  but little things really * me off.
On the 66 Chevelle went to great pains to kill the rust in the windshield frame area and paint it prior to glass install.   About 6 months ago finally had a friend of a rodder friend install the glass.  Well now I went to put in the stainless trim around the glass,  washed the area and when blowing it dry I saw that along the bottom of the glass the water ran thru onto the dash.  No seal.    Tried to call the glass guy but nobody can find him now.   Sure as little green apples,  the area will get scratched if I cut it out and then the rust will come back.  
Anyone had any success with a liquid sealer of some sort?   Seems to only leak along about a two foot section right at the center bottom of the glass.   What about the butyl liquid primer??  :cry:

Have a 15 year old cousin who wants a hod rod project,  not a rice rocket like his older brother.  The kid is kinda quiet and shy, but saves every nickel he makes, is a bus boy at a restaurant and mows lawns.  He  is also  into dirt bikes,  buys junkers and fixes em up and trades up.  Now has a 4 or 500 cc single cylinder Honda I think.
He'd like an old pickup,  but figures that there's no way he can keep gas in a V8.   So he's asking if a hot rod can have a 4 banger.   He lives in southern Ontario (Canuk)  so I though the LA roadster show would knock his socks off plus he could check out the 4 banger rods there and get some ideas.  I've arranged a ride in a silver bird into Phoenix  and then I'll drive him to Pomona sat morn, (non hot rod ride)  but if any of the RRT'ers here are driving about the same time,  it would be waaaay cool to give him a ride part way???  Kinda pass on to another generation.  Or even a ride around the Fairplex?   I can just see him showing the pics to his friends back home. My hot rod is still pieces around the garage.
Any offers or suggestions ?