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Going to go look at this car tomorrow
Need a car fix while I slave away on the A project
64 Impala (not SS) 74K original miles 2nd owner
283 with a powerglide, original paint and been updated to 4 wheel discs and lowered a couple inches
Asking 19500
What would you guys do or offer?
Jeff

A bit O/T but interesting for Crosley and guys with new GM's
With the -40C weather last week a interesting problem cropped up with 06-08 GM Duramaxes
Last Tuesday 3 08's were towed in with inop. trans.
Wed saw 4 more towed to our dealer and we now have a total of 18 inmovable trucks.
Some dealers have had upwards of 40-50 come in.
Seems a "smart" engineer decided to toy with the programming of the new Dmaxes
The owner is able to engage a high idle on the truck in cold weather via steering wheel controls to help with a faster warmup
GM decided to engage the torque converter clutch on high idle and stall out the torque converter thus making heat and transfering the heat through the trans cooler to the rad.
As it turns out he new dexron is gelling at -40 and plugging the cooler thus smoking the torque converter and damaging the pump and input shafts
repair estimates are $5600 per truck vs $3800 for a reman trans.
problem is theres none available and it looks like a 5-6 week wait for trans parts and the same for a reman to show up
Can you say POed customers?
Jeff

I've got a 3 deuce Offy intake for my nailhead but I need some advice on where to tap into it for a 3/8 port for a brake booster
On top is out of the question (no room at all)
For those that don't know it's open under the intake with a valley pan
I could drill into the back or underneath
Just wondering if I drill into the bottom would I end up with fuel in the line
(I think so)
I also need a port for a pcv so does anyone know of a 2 port vacuum tee with 3/8 nipples on them
Thanks
Jeff

I've got a 3 deuce Offy intake for my nailhead but I need some advice on where to tap into it for a 3/8 port for a brake booster
On top is out of the question (no room at all)
For those that don't know it's open under the intake with a valley pan
I could drill into the back or underneath
Just wondering if I drill into the bottom would I end up with fuel in the line
(I think so)
I also need a port for a pcv so does anyone know of a 2 port vacuum tee with 3/8 nipples on them
Thanks
Jeff

here goes


what I'm having problems with is that I had to remove the centre section of the x-member for trans clearance and now I'm wondering what the best way to proceed on
1-how to tie the x-member back together properly
2-how to build a drop out cross member for the trans mount, if you look at the picture closely you can see the pad for the trans mount on th trans housing but I need to build a mount on the frame somehow that is strong and also removable
Thanks
Jeff

This is the problem I have with putting a nailhead and a Tremec 5 speed in my A sedan
I've had to notch out the x member to make room for the rear of the trans
So what would be the best way to get the strength back into the x-member while still having clearance
Thanks
Jeff

I was going to PM you Tony but I thought others might benefit from this.
I've finished the Ramjet install in a 93 GMC and all has went well.
The engine runs good and looks better.
The only issue I've had has been getting a proper tach signal to the original computer for shifting the 4L60E.
I got around that with the use of a diode but that's not the problem.
Both the owner and I think that the trans and engine could benefit from a more aggresive shift pattern and a earlier 4-3 and 3-2 downshift.
Have you had any experience with the stand alone controllers that some companies offer for the 4L60E?
They say they are fully compatible and adjustable but I've never really paid much attention to them.
Also what would be the best one to get, I have seen theat GM Performance makes one also.
Anyone that has any experience good bad or otherwise I'd like to hear it.
Thanks all
Jeff

Has anybody used these type of hoses http://www.coolflex.com/  ?
I've got this Ramjet installed and finished but the upper rad hose has to curve behind the altenator and the forward to the rad.
I could use 2 and join them but I've seen these Cool Flex hoses and I'm curious as the whether they are any good
Thanks for any help
Jeff

Hey Charlie i was just wondering if you had gotten around to mounting your clutch and brake pedal yet?
I'm having a hell of a time getting clearance from the trans and from the frame x member.
Before I cut anything i was just curious as to what you are doing seeing that we've got alot of the same pieces
Thanks
Jeff

Just wondering if anyone has installed one of these?
I've got a guy that wants me to put one in a 93 Truck for him
Pros Cons ?
Thanks all
Jeff

Grinding on some body mounts for the Tudor today and I ignited a small pan of varsol that I had been using to clean some trans. parts.
The flame ignited a box of kim towels that hung above my bench and spread into the above shelfs with all kinds of burnable crap.
If I hadn't had a fully charged fire ext. hanging nearby the family and me would be sleeping in a hotel and we'd be sifting the ashes
be careful out there
Jeff

The nailhead in the Tudor needs some induction
I've got 3 options that range in price and cool factor

option1- Hilborn EFI price 6k
option2-Retrotek 3 deuce EFI 3.5K
option3-3 deuces (rochester) setup by Automotion 2.5K

Every car I've owned has had a 4 barrel and I can afford something different with this car so I'm ignoring that idea I'm also not big on dual quads.
All ideas and opinions respectfully considered  
Thanks Jeff

I could've swore I seen a post on here awhile back that someone had used a Astro rear wiper motor for a Model A.
I've searched but haven't come up with anything
They had mounted it above the windshield in the header.
Anybody remember seeing it?
Thanks
Jeff

I've seen on some cars in magazines a door guide mounted in the door jambs.
They then have wedge on the door.
some have one upper and one lower in addition to a bearclaw.
Anyone know who makes them or sells them?
I've looked everywhere
I'm thinking that they'll keep a Model A door aligned a little better.
Thanks
Jeff

Hey guys can anyone school an ignorant Canadian on powder coating?
I know about the durability of Powder but what about the quality of the colours?
I've heard people say that the shine is kind of dull and that  matching the colours is hard to do.
Specifically I'm think of doing my Hiboy frame.
Thanks
Jeff

Can anyone tell what width ofa diff they are using on either their 32 or Model A?
I can't remember what the diff. width was on my 32 and I'd like to get the quickchange ordered for my 29.
It appears that my A is 42 1/2 wide at the bottom of the wheelwells where the 32 was 40 1/2
A flange to flange spec. would be great Thanks
Jeff

Hope these pics make it through.
This is after the Xmas eve chop (2 inches).
I got the frame under it and the rear kickup fitted into the body.
I had replaced the rear frame rails beforehand and had to cut out 90% of the new piece to fit the kickup. Oh well the remaining 10% is new.
Chop went about as good as could be expected very little warping and I didn't have to pie cut anything to get everything lined up.
Doors are still left to do.
I've gotten ahold of a 401 Nailhead that had recently been rebuilt so that will just need frshening up.
5 speed Richmond with a Bendtsen adapter behind it.
I had hoped to use a 32 tank out back but more and more it looks like it'll be under the rear seat.
beleive it or not there is no rust on this body. someone brushed on a couple gallons of yellow enamel way back when and it protected it.
If you see anything you like/dislike let me know
I've got a thick skin.
Godspeed Don
Later
Jeff

I'm about ready to cut 3 inches out of my 29 and I thought I'd check in with the experts before I start.
I've got the inside braced well and it's sitting on a level frame.
I'm having a * of a time getting a straight line around the quarters and up to the back of the door.
Any tips or tricks? I've tried it with 2 inch mask tape and with a laser level but when I eyeball it, it just doesn't look straight.
I realize it likely doesn't need to be perfect but I want it as close as I can get it, specially with this being my first time.
Thanks
Jeff

I've been looking for a 401/425 Nailhead here in Canada now for 6 months with little luck.
Is there any vintage wreckers in the Northern States that might have one?
I don't mind paying shipping just so long as it isn't a fortune
thanks alot
Jeff

I've got a pretty good opprtunity to pick up a 32 sedan that was hotrodded back in the 60's, problem is it's a 4 door and thats not for me.
Anyone ever convert one to a 2 door sedan?
I know it'd be a lot of work but would it be worth it?
Thanks
Jeff

I'd like to do the starter on my roadster but I'm not sure what the process would do to the magnetic core.
It's a gear reduction vortec one with the magnaquench middle piece.
The magnets are part of the middle housing and not removable.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Jeff

The one we have here won't sell me the 3 dollar parts to fix a 3/8 impact.
But he'll "rebuild" it at his truck for 125.00.
Just wondering if anyone else has a dealer that'll cough up the parts for it and then I could get them from him.
Thanks
Jeff

I've got a friend that wants me to rebuild the Olds rocket in his 70 ragtop.
I'm thinking we'll just do a basic rebuild with new pistons rings etc.
bearings and all the usual stuff.
He'd like a little more HP so I'm looking at getting a Edelbrock package with the RPM cam,intake and carb.
Any other ideas I should look out for or consider?
I've stuck more to the Chev/ Ford side of things rather than messing with the Olds engines.
Thanks
Jeff

A friend of mine is very close to finishing his 64 Ford Galaxy 500.
The last thing he needs is a rear bumper and he's having no luck at all finding one.
Anybody know of a good bumper company in the states that he could call?
Thanks
Jeff