Topics

Wondering why a starter on a Ford 460 would start the engine fine when cool and then while the engine is running the starter gets rel hot.

If you shut the engine off then it won't start till it cools off.

Its in a class C van chassis style motorhome.

The starter has been replaced as has the solenoid.

Other possible causes ?

My 36 has a Turbo 400 in it right now.
It has no kickdown linkage from the throttle linkage and no obvious kickdown switch or anything I can see.

The trans has a holeshot converter, (also being removed) and shifts fine as an auto on it's own. It is equipped with a shift kit and works fine just won't kick down unless you do it manually.

It has a B&M shifter (scary thing with no neutral safety switch) that is going to be removed in favor of a new Lokar shifter.

Questions.
1) How will the Lokars neutral safety swich be wired in ?
2) What should it have for a kickdown ? Linkage or ?
3) Should I consider pulling the TH400 in favor of a newer OD Auto and if so which one is the easiest to install and make work right ?

Lots of ?    But you don't know unless you ask  

Anyone have any info on a source for rebuilding stock 36 Ford seats ?

The seats in my 36 have been recovered and are decent, but they feel to me like they could stand to be rebuilt from the springs up.

I also need to find a stock seat track assembly for the front seat (36 Ford Humpback bench) as the previous owner mounted it to some sort of Cadillac power track and did a poor job.

I'm a do it myself kinda guy so I'd like some info and supplies, maybe even a how to thread or article ?

Thanks.

Went and did the deal on this 36 Ford humpback 2 door sedan today.
The guy I bought it from has owned it for 30 years.

It's a 70s style build with a 327 and Turbo 400. The drivetrain has next to nothing for miles on it after a rebuild not too long ago.

It has some sort of Ford rear end, I'll have to ID it but at first glance it may be a bit wide for the car.

It has an independant front end, I'm guessing it is a Corvair or maybe even Pacer ? It has a front mount rack so I'm not sure there either.

The front end is also too wide for the car from the look of things so one update will see a TCI Mustang II go in. It has a GM tilt coulmn.

The paint is 28 years old but in decent enough shape. The interior is done with an old style with velour inserts but is serviceable for now.

The body is great, it's never been rusty as it was a nice original car to start.

I got the hood sides as well as the trim strips for them too.

Plans call for the MII and lowering in the rear and new rolling stock in the form of WV smoothies with 41 caps and trim rings.
Oh yes, and removal of the tunnel ram intake.

Later on will be new paint and interior down the road. In the meantime I'll update the suspension and rolling stock and drive it .

I've been building in earnest.

I widened the rear of the tub and made it blend in with the sides of the body.

Then I reshaped the top edge of the rear of the tub to match the sides.

After that I started fabbing the side rails from 2x6x1/8" tubing. I cut a 32 style reveal into the rails and curved them to match the slight curve of the T body.

Then I pinched them at the cowl and ran them forward to the front crossmember.

The axle will sit out front slightly and it will be sprung off the bones which I am fabricating.

It will have a 29 smooth grille shell.

I have the complete 72 Maverick 302-C4 -8" from my donor car previously posted.

Here are a few pics.
Larry.

Is there a way to measure shocks to get it right ? I want to order some Pro shocks for the front and back of the roadster. Speedway has them in different lengths.

I know that because of my front end design,the 4" dropped axle etc I will need a pretty short shock. The rears will be longer.

What are the guidelines regarding shock length,travel etc. ? I am doing a totally custom set-up, nothing is off the shelf except the Magnum axle so I need to know how to determine shock length and mounting angle too.

Here's some info on Pro Shocks:

Pro Shocks have been around for a long time. They advertised in the old Rodders Digest Magazines way back when.

http://www.proshocks.com/aboutus.htm

They make all kinds of shocks. Speedway sells these.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Pro-St...hocks,870.html

Their shock chart.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/image...t-582SM300.gif

Larry.

Was reading a bunch of my old Hot Rod Mechanix magazines and noticed a lot of the open wheeled cars were running a 145-R15 Michelin on the front and 31X11.50 R15's on the rear in an almost matching (or similar) street tire tread pattern. I believe both are radials.

Now I know Coker sells the Michelin 145-R15's but does anyone know if the 31X11.50 R15's are still available anywhere ??

Larry

I have a very old ( I bought it when I was 18  ) Grant steering wheel. It's a 3 spoke wheel with the holes in the spokes.

It's a 14" wheel and is rare in that they don't make them any more. What makes it rare is that it has finger depressions and the associated bumps on the rear surface of the wheel.

They only make them smooth now.

The problem is the foam it was covered with. It was covered with a black textured foam which has worn a bit in places and is thin on the raised bumps of the finger depressions.

Any ideas on restoring the covering ? I want to use the wheel in my 26 roadster.

I thought of trying a liquid rubber coating like what they use to dip tool handles etc.

Loctite makes a black rubber coating liquid that can be brushed on and I have considered trying to coat the foam that is not in bad shape overall except for the thin spots. A new coating over the whole wheel would look nice if it worked.

What do you think ? Will it work ? Any other ideas ?

Larry.

I have done a bunch of research, and it seems that an early sixties or 70s Mopar steering box can be adapted to get cowl steering.

For my  fenderless 27 T bucket, the body will sit on the frame with no channel. The front axle will be a Magnum 4" drop beam mounted suicide.
I'm building hairpin radius rods.

The body is an original steel body so has opening doors.

I'd like to try the Mopar box and do a cowl steering setup to give me more footroom.

Anyone have any info you can provide on how to set these up ?

How do you determine where the box mounts and where the hole in the body is best placed ?
I am wondering about the location and pitman arm length ,travel and all that in relation to the hairpin radius rod as well as little things like being able to open the little roadsters driver door without hitting the pitman arm...

 
Also, how do you determine the length of the pitman arm ? I will be using early ford spindles and magnum steering arms.  

Any suggestions or solid help you can offer ?

Hope someone can educate me      .

Larry

Anyone here have pictures detailing the body support structure in the bottom of a 26-27 T roadster body ?

I want to see how the side rails and crossmembers go as well as the seat support structure etc.

Measurements would be great as well.

All that stuff was missing or cobbled together when my Touring body was turned into a bucket and I want to build it all to replace it.

Larry

My 302 from the donor 72 Maverick appears to have a points type distributor.

I want to change over to electronic, what year car can I grab a distributor from when I visit the wrecking yard ?

Also, what else should I grab with the distributor while I'm there ?

Larry

What can you tell me about Fords AOD trans ?

Obviously it has overdrive, as the C4 does not.

Is it a good trans to use ? Is it much larger physically than the C4 ?

Are there problems that come with trying to use one behind a 351W such as the AOD being computer controlled or such ?

I know so many questions  

Larry.

Just wondering if one of you fine gentlemen have a plastic mockup 351 Windsor engine with heads that you want to send to a new home.

Sure would help in setting up the chassis of my T.  

Larry

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/replica-ford-sbprices.htm

Here's the deal. I am getting a 1987 351W and C6 out of a F250 truck.

The C6 is physically larger and will be difficult to fit into the confines of my 26 roadsters chassis.

What do I need in the way of parts to remove the C6 and bolt on a C4 ?

Also, where do I look for the engine ID to confirm what I'm gonna buy when we load it up ?

Anyone have the answers ?  

Larry

Have not been around here for many years. You guys may remember me as larryt (my previous handle) .

I went through a divorce and a number of years single, re-married to a beautiful Texas woman in 2004. Jan is wonderful and life with her is amazing.

I have been involved mainly in motorcycling with my 2004 ST1300 sport touring mount and love it.

Some of you may recall (enjenjo likely for sure) that I made and sold some real nice Mustang II kits for a while. I still have all my templates and many models, just have not been inclined to do any kits for a long time. Not sure I want to do any more now.

Life has been busy, and when I divorced I sold my 37 Dodge sedan and moved on.

Life still is busy, but I have decided to re-enter the rodding hobby.

We are heading out tomorrow and I am bringing home a steel 26 roadster body.

It's the front half of a touring body that has been stretched 4" behind the doors and all the rust repaired the right way. New hinges and door latches.

A nice little bucket body.

I have a little 53 Dodge Red Ram 241 Hemi to power it. The engine I got for free !

I will be scratch building the chassis and almost everything.

Anyway I will be hanging around to pick your brains from time to time. Not sure how or who to have the little hemi built and all kinds of other problems will come up I'm sure.

Larry.