Topics

I have a ZZ4 crate engine that has been in my Deuce for about six years now.  

I'm ashamed to admit that I didn't pay much attention to what the spec sheet said about maintaining the cooling system so as to prevent corrosion of the heads.  I've heard everything from, "you need to use distilled water in the radiator to "no special treatment is needed."

Right now I'm just running straight antifreeze and it's time to drain and flush the system so I'm wondering what additional things I need to do to help the aluminum heads live a long time.  

...and have I potentially done any damage by letting this go this long?  

Thanks

I recently changed the transmission in my 5 window and rather than futz around with trying to get the SW Wings speedo calibrated and working with the new trans I bought one of the new Classic Instruments Sky Drive GPS speedo units.  This thing is advertised as working with ANY electric speedometer.  

The first unit didn't work...sent it back and it tested bad.  They sent me a new one, which I'm sure is wired in correctly, but it won't calibrate.  Classic Instruments Tech Support hasn't been much help.  The last guy I talked to today said that the unit MAY not work with a 12 volt square wave speedo.  He suggested I call SW to see if they could tell me how to hook it up.  

Having delt with what purports to be tech support at SW before, I'm turning to you guys first.  Has anybody had experience with this GPS/speedo combination and does anybody have any thoughts, tips, etc as to how to hook it up??

Thanks.

I'm trying to remove the axles from a new 9 inch rear in order to test fit a Wilwood brake kit.  Right now it's just the axle housing with the axles and bearings installed.  There is NO center section.  I have removed the  flanges that hold the axle to the tube and flailed away with a slide hammer until I about passed out and the * thing won't budge.  I've never had one not come out.  What's going on here?  Do I need to heat up the end of the housing in the area of the bearings?  
...and don't anybody say, "Get a bigger hammer"...
Thanks.

It's 98 degrees out today and I'm bored.  'Thought I'd take a shot at painting a reverse "Move Over" graphic on the bug screen on my Deuce.  

Then I realized I have no idea of how to correctly do this.  I guess some sort of stencil is involved.  Has anybody done this and how did you make it look right, with crisp edges on the lettering.  It strikes me that it would be easy to go to a commercial graphics shop and have them cut a stencil...but how do you paint the letters onto what is essentially a piece of screen wire without making a mess???

I'm still sorting out my Deuce coupe, it's coming along and progress is being made. BUT...'Scratching my head over why it's turning 3,000 revs at 70 when, according to calculations it should be turning 2100 - 2300 at that speed. Here's the set up and what I have done so far...any thoughts/suggestions are appreciated.

ZZ4 crate motor
700 R4 trans from Bow Tie Overdrives, their stage 2 street model, using a converter from Bow Tie OD's, the one they recommended for this tranny. Transmission shifts as it should through all four gears.
26.5 inch tall rear tires
3.50 gear
Stewart Warner electric tach which I believe to be correctly wired; stock HEI distributor

All the on line calculators say this combo should yield approx 2200 rpm at 70.
I have measured 70 mph by GPS and at that speed the tach shows 3000rpm.
The general consensus from others I've talked to about this is that for some reason it's not going into OD, but it sure shifts 4 times (confirmed by seat of the pants).

I have jacked the rear end up and rotated both rear wheels while counting the pinion yoke revolutions and this exercise confirmed the ratio is approx 3.50

I would like to get the revs down into the 2200 range as this car will be driven a lot over long distances and the increased mileage, not to mention less noise, would be a definite plus. Before tearing into the tranny, I'd appreciate any thoughts from you guys as to what's going on here and possible fixes. Thanks -Tom

Today I drove my Deuce 5 window over to Goodguys in Charlotte.  This was the first trip of any distance it has been on.  Things were all good and I'm pleased with my first time effort, EXCEPT...the * electric fuel pump makes a racket that seriously detracts from the enjoyment.  It's a Holley blue pump, mounted to the frame rail just behind the door on the passenger side.  I have it mounted with a rubber cushion between it and the rail and it still makes way too much noise.  I had to use an electric pump because the frame is pinched and there isn't room for a mechanical pump.  Looking for suggestions on how to make this thing quieter.  Are all electric pumps generally loud or is it just because it's a Holley?  Are there other brands that are quieter?  Anybody want to buy a very slightly used Holley blue pump?  Thanks.

And Now For The Dumb Question of the Day for which I apologize in advance.  This is probably pretty basic stuff that I should know.  

I have several bolts for which the torque spec is in inch pounds.  Not having an inch pound wrench I'm wondering if there is any reason not to simply use one of the many conversion programs to convert the inch pounds spec to foot pounds?  If there is no reason not to do this, then why weren't the specs given in foot pounds to start with?  I should add that I have already tightened the fastners in question using a conversion program to get the foot pound equivalent, I just need to know if this is correct or is there some reason not to do it this way?

I am working on a glass Deuce and have a chopped stock style windshield frame that I was originally going to glue in but the thought occurred that this is a bad idea in the event of needing to replace the glass in case of a rock chip.  I think I want to install the frame the way Henry did it originally, so that it swings out.  Can anybody give me a source for all the parts I'll need to make this change.  I can find lots of sources for the windshield swing arms but nobody seems to carry the hinges and other small parts needed.  Also any tips on doing this will be appreciated as well...THANKS!

My  glass bodied Deuce 5 window will have a stock style, but non opening, chrome windshield frame which will be glued in.  I am told that I should use the windshield rubber from an S-10 truck.  I have two questions:  Is the information re the S-10 rubber correct?  and  Can someone tell me what year S-10 rubber I need to get?

Thanks

I saw this TV cable system mentioned in the current issue of Street Rodder.  I'm almost ready to hook up my 700r4...has anyone on here had any first hand experience with this product?  It almost sounds too easy, therefore I'm a bit skeptical.  The link below is to the page on their website that gives product details.  Thanks.

http://www.bowlertransmissions.com/default.aspx?mpid=34

'Been a while since I posted any progress on my project.  Today I rolled it out in the sun to let the body cure some more before it goes to paint next month.  I have begun wiring the gauges and have run the battery cables, installed the battery box and made an overhead console...in addition to installing the engine and finishing some body work on the tail lights, etc.  'Hope to have it on the road some time this summer.

I'm ready to wire my Deuce 5 window project.   Where do you guys that have built a Deuce before run the wiring through the firewall to the front of the car?   I'm using a Ron Francis kit and the panel is mounted on the inside of the firewall in front of the driver.   I'd like to keep it as neat as possible and as hidden as possible.  Engine is a zz4 crate motor.  Pictures would be really appreciated.  This is my first build and I hate to keep asking these basic questions, but this board has been great for answers.  Before long I'll be posting video of the fireup...YeeHaaaa!

If I ground the battery, which is located in the trunk, to a transmission bellhousing bolt on a tranny with an aluminum case; will there be a problem with corrosion?  It will be much easier and cleaner to ground to the bellhousing as opposed to elsewhere.  Just wondering if the dissimilar metals involved will set up electrolysis.  Thanks.

I'm putting my Deuce 5 window project together for the final time before paint and have run into a brake pedal clearance problem.  The brake pedal arm hits the outside of the toe board before it goes in far enough for the pushrod and the pivot attachment point to mate up.  It appears that the push rod is about an inch too long.  It looks to me like the push rod needs to be shortned, there is no more adjustment left between the clevis and the pivot, but I thought I'd check in here before I whack it.  Is this the right solution or am I missing something?  I plumbed the brakes while the body was off the frame and until the body went back on I had no way to know this was going to be a problem.  I'm using a Wilwood alum master cylinder and 4 wheel discs.

My glass Deuce 5 window project is just about ready for paint and I need some advice on the best way to cure the body so that I don't get print through after the first hot summer day I'm on the road.  I've heard that mounting the body on the frame and letting it sit overnight in a paint booth is the way to go, but would like verification of this before I go forward.  At what temperature does the booth need to be?  How long does it need to sit?  Does it need to cool off and heat up over a number of cycles to fully cure?  I've also heard that all I need to do is to let it sit outside for a few hot days before painting.  Since winter is here this last is not much of an option.  Here are the basic facts...I've had the body for about three years.   It has never been out of the shop where the temperature is 70 degrees year round.  When I picked up the body it was in the dead of winter, so it didn't get exposed to much heat on the trailer on the way to the shop.  Thanks.

I have some -6 AN fittings that I'm going to use in hooking up the fuel line.  I've heard that it is possible to strip the blue off of them, leaving a shiny aluminium finish.  What is used to get the blue off?  Somebody told me to use whitewall cleaner and I've been soaking the fittings in whitewall cleaner for about half an hour now and there is no change.  What gives?

Today while finishing up a few things on my Duece chassis I noticed that the master cylinder moves ever so slightly when the pedal is pushed.  The movement is so slight that it's hardly noticable and I don't have a tool in the shop that would be capable of measuring it.  Nevertheless, it seems that there should be NO movement.  I am concerned that over time this will cause premature wear and perhaps fatigue the brake lines.  The M/C is installed in what is pretty much the standard location using grade 5 bolts and the bracketry that was in the frame when I got it...picture attached.  What do you guys think?  Am I right to be concerned or is this nothing to worry about?  Since the fame is in paint at this point I'd obviously like not to have to reinforce the bracket, but if this is a safety issue I guess I'll have to.  Thanks.

I'm setting up the rear end of my Deuce chassis.  Do the adjustable ends of the LOWER bars go toward the front or toward the back... or does it matter?  I have the TOP bars with the adjustable ends toward the rear, so they are accessable from under the car when/if they need furter adjustment.  Thanks.

This is a continuation of my earlier post re Wilwood 4 wheel discs on a Deuce chassis, using a Wilwood dual chamber aluminum m/c.   The lines are run, no leaks anywhere, and I have opened the top two bleed screws on each caliper and bled the lines until no bubbles are present.  The brakes work, BUT I have only one inch of pedal travel from full off to full lock.  Ths doesn't seem right to me.  Is it normal for the pedal to have this small amount of travel from full off to full on?

I've just finished bending the lines and hooking up my brakes.  Since this is my first ever attempt at a build I naturally have some stupid questions.  Bear with me.  This is a Wilwood 4 wheel disc system on a Deuce chassis.  Each caliper has what appears to be 4 bleed screws.  Each caliper has 4 pistons.  Do I have to get the bubbles out of each bleed screw,or is it sufficient to bleed one screw?  I know this is probably basic stuff but we all have to start somewhere.  Now that the laughter has subsided can somebody please answer.  Thanks.

It's about time to think about painting my glass Deuce 5 window project.   I'd like to paint the underside in my home shop.  Once the bottom is in paint I could go ahead and mount the body and finish the rest of the mechanical assembly and wiring.  Then, once the bugs are out I'd take it to a pro painter for final body work and paint.  How difficult will it be to do the underside at home?  I'll have to rent a compressor and gun and cover the walls of my shop.  What type of paint works best.  I assume it would be a single stage paint, in a dark color.  Any thoughts, cautions, or things to be aware of before I dive in will be appreciated.

I'm working on getting the body mounted to the frame on my Deuce 5 window.  I can't get the cowl perpendicular to the frame rail.  With a couple of shims under the front body mount bolt the angle between the frame and the firewall is still about 87 degrees.  If I shim it anymore there will be a noticeable gap between the top of the rail and the lowermost body reveal.  I'm doing this in preparation to getting a hood top made.  Does this angle HAVE to be 90 degrees?  Looks to me like it does, otherwise there will be a problem at the grille shell when it comes to fitting the hood.  What am I missing here?  Help.

I have looked high an low for a wiper arm/blade combo that will fit the windshield of my three inch chopped Deuce 5window.  Does anybody on here know of a source or, failing that, what's the process for chopping the arm and blade.  It can't be as simple as cutting a slice out of the middle and welding the arm back together, can it?  How do you then shorten the blade?  I'm at work now and can't get to the car to measure the actual windshield height, but I think it's something in the neighborhood of 8-9 inches tall, maybe a little more or less.  Thanks.  -Tom

I was just noticing 34Fords post about his chassis and saw that his fuel pump is mounted on the frame rail between the tank and the fuel filter. (photo attached)

Dose it make a difference which comes first, the filter or the pump?  I just finsished running my fuel line and put the filter between the tank and the pump, the fuel would go throught the filter and then to the pump.  Did I screw up?  * there's a lot to learn about this stuff)

Lately I've purchased items for my Deuce 5 Window project from McMaster-Carr Industrial Supply.  The service and delivery times have always been a cut above.  Couple of days ago I ordered a tool for installing nut inserts.  When it arrived I went straight to work putting nutcerts in the frame to mount the electric fuel pump.  As I finished the second one the tool snapped off.  (I swear I didn't overtighten the nut).  Well I called McMaster-Carr the next day and their response was to simply say, "We'll ship another one out to you TODAY."  No questions asked, no haggeling, no BS...just we'll send you another one today.  They did ask that I return the broken tool, which I did this morning.  

I believe in giving credit when a company does something good.  In today's world it's all too seldom that you see this kind of customer friendly attitude.  Just wanted to pass this along...hat's off to McMaster-Carr.

I have a Holly electric pump, the "blue" pump, that I want to use on my Deuce 5 window/Small Block project.  The instructions that came with the pump say that it must be mounted below the tank and the fuel outlet must be on the bottom of the tank.  My fuel tank, which will be located in the trunk, has the outlet on the top.  I called the maker of the tank who said that it is illegal to modify the tank for bottom feed, for safety reasons.  In case of an accident it would be easy for fuel to leak out.  Will this fuel pump work with a fuel outlet that's on top of the tank as long as the pump is lower than the overall tank?  What am I missing here?  Thanks.

After spending several hours making a firewall recess so that the stock HEI distrbutor that came with my ZZ4 crate motor would fit in my Deuce 5 window project I was dismayed to find that I made the recess too small and the * thing still hits the firewall. (I know, I know..measure twice, cut once.)  My options are to redo the firewall or try to find a smaller distributor.  I've seen small block Chevys with smaller distributors, but didn't pay attention to them.  Can someone on here point me in the right direction.  Who makes a smaller distributor that will work with my motor and what do I need to look for.  Thanks.

It's time to mock up the steering linkage on my Deuce 5 window project.  When I got the rolling chassis it came with Flaming River steering joints; three of them: a vibration damper, and two other regular single joints.  All are 3/4inch x 36 spline.  I have found that I need a 9/16 x 17 spline joint at the rack with a 36 spline on the other end.  Flaming River doesn't have this size, but Borgeson does.  Is there any reason not to mix the two brands in the same system?  Seems like it wouldn't matter but I thought I'd ask some of the more experienced folks here.  Thanks.

I'm just about ready to mount seats in my five-window project.  Question for those of you here who have built glass cars...What's the best way to mount the seat frame to the floorboard.  Is it sufficient to simply thru-bolt the frames with a healthy backing plate/washer to spread the load or do the seats need to be tied in to the chassis to be strong and safe?  
Thanks.
-Tom

Ok, a while back I posted a question about what year bare block I needed to get to use in mocking up a change in the motor mounts on my Deuce 5 window project.  I now have an empty 350 block and have cut out the old motor mounts which didn't allow enough clearance between the oil pan and the pavement.  There was only about 2 inches clearance and since this car is going to be driven a lot I didn't feel that was adequate.

I'm ready to fabricate new mounts to raise the motor 2 inches.  Can somebody give me a quick crash course on how to make sure I get the mounts aligned in the frame so that the pinion angle won't be a problem.  I appears that the motor will have to be sitting at an angle with the tranny lower than the front of the motor, with the car at ride height.  How do you set this up so that it all lines up correctly?

I find myself in need of moving the motor mounts back about two inches on my deuce 5 window project in order to get fan clearance.  I'm using a ZZ4 crate motor, here's the question.  I need to pick up a bare block from the junk yard to use in mocking up the new mounts.  What year block should I look for?  Are all late model small blocks going to be the same as my ZZ4, or do I need to look for a specific year or year range?
Thanks.

First, thanks for the input on my recent question on guages.  Folks on this board are really helpful without a lot of drama.  

I'm building a Duece 5 window with a Kugel independent front end, the highboy open wheel model.  Since the frame is pinched to accomodiate the suspension it appears to me that the radiator will have to be mounted in front of the Kugel crossmember.  Right?  How's the best way to mount the radiator/shell.  The radiator in question is a Walker Cobra, Z series.  Any photos of this type installation will be appreciated as will advice from anyone who's done this before.  
Thanks.

I will be going to the Knoxville NSRA show in a couple of weeks and plan to shop for gauges for my deuce project.  With the many choices out there I'd welcome the opinions of folks on this board regarding what is good, bad and/or ugly about the various brands.  I guess I have a bias towards SW gauges, simply because they are what I associate with hot rods, having grown up in the 50's when they were about all you saw.  Are there better alternatives in terms of accuracy, reliability, warranty, ect.?

Lets hear your opinions.

Thanks.

I am finally underway with my Deuce 5 window project.  When I dropped the motor and tranny into the frame to check the fit I was pleased to see that the mounts lined up and everything is square.  BUT, there's always a but, right?

It seems to me that there isn't enough clearance between the engine front pully and the steering rack.  With the car on the ground, there's only about a quarter inch, maybe a little less, between the bottom of the pully and the rack.  Somebody with experience give me some feed back here.  Is this something I need to change or is it OK to have things this tight.  Seems to me that a big bump would cause contact.  Yes, No?

I have a ZZ4 350 Crate Motor and I'd like to be able to run early style Corvette valve covers.  Anyone on the board know what's involved in making this work.  The Chevy Performance catalog lists a set of adapters to permit running old style valve covers instead of the center bolt style that are on the motor.  Is this all I need, or is there more to it?  Thanks.