Topics

the axle tube, on my 96 ford F=150 is leaking/dripping gear oil. It is the right side, where the tube goes into the cast iron pumpkin. How do I fix/repair this?

Frank and fat cat,

If this offends or goes against your posting standards i understand and please delete.

please like and share my status on face book

https://www.facebook.com/robert.koski1

how hard is it to rebuild 98 to 01 dodge caravan transmissions?   What specialty tools are required? Any real special talents?

my boss is broke down, he is driving a lincoln limo, and lost the altenator, he has got the altenator changed but cant get the belt back on.  

he has cancer, and is in a lot of pain....  anyone near by who could give him a hand?

2001 dodge caravan, 3.3, 270k miles. Incoming day driver had no complaints, nite driver drove 12 miles and returned saying van was running like crap, quick drive test confirmed it seemed to be missing, and did not want to idle, check engine lamp on, battery lamp was on, idled real rough.

got it in the shop, it was throwing codes for oxygen sensor high, tps voltage low, tps voltage high and a 1748.

data  showed oxygen sensor 1 was stuck at 99%. tps ohmed out ok, and 1748 is an internal code for the computer.


pulled the plugs and the plugs are sooty black, and smell of raw gas.

replaced plugs and wires (they had 90 k on them), did a compression check  the high was 185lbs low was178lbs.  the van has had computer issues in the past so i swapped computers with a know good one, and no change.

put a fuel pressure guage on the van and it has 50lbs steady pressure, i wanted to look at the fuel so i pressed the fuel bleed valve on the guage, to bleed so fuel into a clear jar, and the van started running great, no misses, smooth, would accelerate, as long as i was bleeding the pressure off, as soon as i released the bleeder valve, it starts missing.

thinking of doing the epoxy floor thing in the shop, but had a thought, i do occasionally weld (gas and mig), what do you have to do to protect the floor ? ... just a random thought. :?:

2000 dodge caravan, it has been shifting rough, and last night, when the driver stopped to pick up a fare, it quit.

driver states he went in and found the person, it was running good, but know it wont go.

i hopped in it this morning, put it in neutral, and it free wheels. start and put in reverse, the engine changes pitch, give it some gas, it acts like it is laboring and wants to go, give it some more and it reverses, but acts like it is in park, huge clunks. try drive and it feels as if you were going forward and shifted into park...  i dunno if this makes sense...

2000 dodge 3.0, idles  good, slowly accelerate, it will hit the rev limiter, but if you punch it, it backfires.  driving, it sounds runs good in gear, accelerate slowly runs good till about 30 mph, then stumbles. put your foot into it, and it stumbles and back fires.

has a new timing belt, and it is dead on the marks on the lower pulley and the cam pulleys.

2000 dodge caravan, with 3.0 v6, 270k,  the motor runs strong, gets great gas mileage (18 city/21 hiway), but is using a quart every 700 miles.

it seems to be blowing it out the cam seals, and the front crank seal.

i have replaced pcv valve, and the breather hose that runs from the valve cover to the air cleaner seems to have a lot of pressure built up, and the air filter seems to get saturated with oil on the lower half....

if you dont have the dip stick in ( a driver broke it off, and it took a couple days to find one) it blows oil all over.

should it have pressure like that?

RIP...

Dee Wescott, a 58 year member of Boring Fire District and former Mayor for the City of Damascus, died at his home Thursday, January 29, He was 81 years old.

Dan O'Dell, Boring Fire District's retired Chief who worked with Dee during most of his career, said he was "a great friend, an icon in the fire service who led by example" Dee's length of service spanned many changes in the fire service. These changes always seemed to be greeted with a 'can do' attitude and Dee's ever present smile.

Dee joined Boring Fire District in 1950 and, over the years, served in nearly every capacity including as Fire Chief in the early 60's. He retired from active duty as Assistant Chief in 1997 and continued his service as a Board Member until he died.

In addition to his tremendous commitment to public safety through his service with Boring Fire District, Dee also served as the first Mayor of the City of Damascus. He owned and operated Wescott's Auto Re-Styling for over 55 years, was a long time member of Multnomah Hot Rod Association and was involved with a number of civic and volunteer organizations including being a founding member of Damascus Water District and the Damascus Civic Club. "He was always doing so many things for the community," said Joyce Schwer, Vice President Damascus Civic Club "His absence will be felt by everyone here".

"If you wanted something done, you talked to Dee," Damascus City Mayor Jim Wright said. "The volunteering community spirit he had, he was an inspiration. There is an extraordinary number of things around here that are the beneficiary of his handiwork."

The Family encourages everyone who knew Dee to submit their memories and/or stories online via www.ci.damascus.or.us or by utilizing the stationery which will be provided at the memorial service.

In lieu of flowers, the family requests that contributions be made to:
Damascus Civic Club: Key Bank, Attn: Dee Wescott Memorial
19830 SE Hwy 212, Damascus, OR. 97089

Dee is survived by:
Wife – Kay Wescott married Dec 26, 1955 (53 years)
Children/spouses:
Son Karl and wife Mary Wescott of Damascus - son Ben
Daughter Julie and husband Charley Meyer of Honolulu - son Zach
Daughter Amy and husband Dave Hutchins of Boise - sons Russel and Codee
Son Tim Wescott and Robin Gearn of Oregon City - sons James and John

Full Firefighter Honors will be conducted at the Memorial Service which will take place
Saturday, February 7th at 1:00 p.m. (with a reception immediately following)
At Damascus Community Church
14251 SE Rust Way, Damascus OR 97089


If your fire department plans on bringing fire apparatus to the funeral service – please RSVP to Don Arbuckle dona@boringfire.com, or call 971-563-4243

[/img]

last tuesday, when i got my cab, i did the normal pre trip check, and threw my stuff in the trunk, and i noticed gasoline fumes in the trunk... so i asked the day guy about it, and he said he took a guy with a gas can to the gas station on his last trip..... ok.

so i leave, and im not feeling all that well, find a nice sunny parking lot, and relcline the seat, and take a nap, thinking i will feel better... get a call 45 minuites later, and i am not feeling any better, and all of a sudden i can taste alcohol, (like the smeel from gas), so i take the car back, and talk to the mechanic (thinking it might be an exhaust leak... he gets in and smeells raw fuel.... i relay about the day guy, he looks in the trunk, and we discover gas is spilt on the trunk liner, and the pad underneath (an area roughly 15" x 20") and the pad is sopping wet (drippy), so he removes the pad and liner, sprays freebreeze in the trunk and car, and says have a good night.

i not thinking about it, leave, and although i dont feel sick, i dont feel well, (freebreeze or perfumes set my sinuses off).

the next day i wake up, hard to breathe, and the headache from hell, but go in anyway (hey i got bills), and can only work half a day, thursday, headache gone, but hurts to breathe, and only work half a day, friday, it still hurts to breathe, but i work a full shift, and today it only hurts when i cough....

i have done something similar before, when painting a car, but with age it hurts more...

i think if this ever happens again, i will go to the e/r

put a volare front end under the panel, and bought a set of calipers off ebay for it. put maybe 1500 miles on it, and the drivers side caliper started leaking around the piston. so i replaced the caliper last month, and today, it started leaking again in the same spot.  The replacement caliper came from NAPA, so it has a warranty, but i wanna know what else could cause the failure.
when i installed to clip, i put new rotors (from NAPA) on it, replaced all the bushings, wheel bearings, brakes.  The pads look new, the rotors dont have any groves, and the van stops in a straight line.

ideas :?:

Was out driving the '50 today, and it was running great, until i got on the freeway.. got onto the freeway, accelerated great and i romped it to pass, and it sputtered and choughed and started running real rough... coasted to the median and there was the odor of extreme lean run conditions...
last august it did the same, and i thought i had narrowed it down to the fuel cap, which was non-vented, so i drilled a small hole in it, and it seemed to run fine.

anyhow, I started it up after 5 minuites and drove it off the freeway at the next exit, to the gas station, and filled it (17 gals, the tank is 26gals).

started up and it ran fine for about 10 miles, and started the whole i'm going to act like im outta gas thing. turned around and started for home (maybe 12 miles away) and it took 1.5 hours to get back home because of the whole start, stop, im going to die thing.

Tank is clean, with a new pickup/strainer in the tank, the fuel lines are new 3/8 steel lines, with no radical bends, all rubber lines are less than a year old, the filter has less than 500 miles on it, the fuel pump has less than 1000 miles on it, the steel line to the carb is new, and bent exactly as the orginal, and is insulated, the carb was rebuilt.... has 2 fuel filters, one is between the tank(canister type) and the fuel pump, and the other is the stock ford filter which screws into the carb.

stats on the rig, 1950 F 1 panel, 1977 400 w/C6, Electric fan...
any ideas??

on my 400 ford (78 ),  do i need to hook up a wire to the side of the carb? what purpose is this? i have a 2 barrel carb on it. if i need to hook this up, is this a constant 12v or?

forgive my stupidity, thanks

robert

ok... so i have been working on the 1950 f1 panel for quite a while, and like the look of the stainless bars for the grill...  looked at quite a few vendors, and nobody had them in stock, they were backordered at  d.carpinter, macs, b drakes, and my local shop wescotts, all were real close in pricing, so i went with  Wescotts ( cuz i wanted to support the local shop, and save a few bucks on shipping), i ordered on july 15th, was told it would be a couple weeks.... fast forword to 8/17, the brooks truck show is next weekend, still no parts... wescotts says they are still on backorder, i frantically call other sources, and everyone else is still backordered, so i just repeat several times... it is just not meant to be.

So after the show (first part of september) checked in with wescotts, assured them that yep i still want them.... they called on 10/13 and said they should be here by mid november, so cool they will get here.

10/20/2004, wescotts calls me and the part is here, so i ask to ups them to me ( acroos town), i get them this morning and i am disapointed..


1. Package says Dales manufacturing in OKC, OK

2. Parts are stamped with MADE IN TWAIN ROC

3. The retainer clips sent with the "kit" are made by Dales

4. the slot on the back of the stainless steel grill bars ( for the clips to slide in) are 1 3/16", the clips are 3/4" x 2 1/2".


so i called wescotts and they verified the clips, are "supposed " to fit in the groove, so they said I can either return them, or Modify the clips to fit.

so my gripe is you pay $189.00 for 5 pieces of stainless steel, wait 3.5 months and they are not manufactured to the full specs. What do i do.... modify them or send them back?? if i send them back, where do i find some quality parts?

Or am I just being to ANAL RETENTIVE here?      :?:  :?:

Robert

got a 4.6 crown vic 1995, and the motor is seized up... anyways, trying to pull the motor, and how do you remove the 4 nuts holding the torque convertor to the flywheel? I cant spin the motor to get to them.... so how do i seperate the motor and tranny??

Robert

one of my drivers.... ok ex driver, ( he quit)

put brake fluid in the tranny, and drove the car... the transmission slips.

I did not realize he had put brake fluid in it,   till i  had already pulled it out, and replaced the tranny. I noticed the strong odor of the fluid, (not a burnt smell, more of a solvent odor), but never put the puzzle together, untill i noticed the 2 empty brake fluid containers in the trunk.

THERE IS A REASON THAT MY DRIVERS ARE ONLY ALLOWED TO CHANGE FLAT TIRES.

with all that said, is the tranny toast?

OBTW this is in a 95 crown vic  aode, the tranny had 22k on it since the rebuild.

ok, stupid question, but i gotta ask, how do you fill / check the brake, and clutch fluid on these trucks?

I have found the master cylinders under the dash, but cant seem to locate a fluid resivor any where. the cylinders are mounted vetically, with a hose out the bottom, and a rod out the top, going to the pedal. there is a "boot" on the top of the cylinder, that has a tab on it, but it looks like it would be extremely incovient to fill the fluid thru there...

anyhow, i am stumped.

Robert

put  a new motor in ( the old one froze up), and the motor runs continiously, until you disconnect the wiper arms from the motor shaft. At this point the unit parks and all functions work (off, slow, fast), but * soon as the wiper arms are connected, the motor does not stop, and has slow(in the slow and off positions) and high speed. i measured the voltage on the motor shaft, and there is +12v between the motor shaft and the body.   defective unit (motor)? . I did disconnect the wiper switch, but it made no diiference. Ideas?

Robert

started cleaning up the fire truck, she started and ran so good... so i decided to start cleaning under the cab and the frame on the drivers side, so using the pressure washer, i sprayed and blew off years of accummulated grease and dirt, and oh how it looks so clean and petty ( The frame is acutally gloss red and looks good), but now the batterys dont seem to charge.... the batterys are located on the passnger side about 6' behind the cab. the altenator, and starter are located on the passenger side, and i did not get hem wet. hooked jump box directly to the battery, and nothing but clicks from starter, hooked jump box directly to starter, and the truck starts right up. ammeter shows 30 amp charge rate at idle (90 amp altenator) i let it run for about an hour, still charging, shut it off, and went to restart it. nothing but clicks.

Ideas of what i have done, or where to start trouble shooting?

Robert

 got a new ride, ideas of what to do now....


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=6729&item=2471507731&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWN%3AIT

1. Always wanted one.
2. Single, no one to tell me "no".
3. Thought it looked cool.


Robert