46 Chevy

[enjenjo]

After some health problems I am back on the 46. The tail lights are all wired. Gas tank vent is installed. Fuel filler is installed in the floor of the bed with a sealed cap. The headliner is finished, next step is the door windlace, and kick panels. I'll get some pictures in the next day or so.

[kb426]

Glad you're feeling better.

[enjenjo]

Here are some pictures of the fuel filler.

[enjenjo]

Working on the 46 today. Did a rebleed of the brakes, much better, but I had three leaks. One was easy, a fitting that I had neglected to tighten up. The other two were at the residual pressure valves. The adapter fitting they installed at the factory were leaking. I am going to have to remove them and reseal both of them. And then rebleed again. :evil:

[papastoyss]

Working on the 46 today. Did a rebleed of the brakes, much better, but I had three leaks. One was easy, a fitting that I had neglected to tighten up. The other two were at the residual pressure valves. The adapter fitting they installed at the factory were leaking. I am going to have to remove them and reseal both of them. And then rebleed again. :evil:

On brake fittings that are NPT I like to use red Loctite, no leaks, no problems.

[enjenjo]

I have a problem here I need some help on. I am working on the running boards for the  46 and the right one is a disaster. These boards are the best we could find with over a year of looking. Not much rust, but the right one is really bent up. I spent three hours today working on it, and I have the ends pretty close, and managed to get the outer edge unrolled where it had hit something in the distant past. But now it has a broad bend on the the outer edge both horizontally, and vertically.

I have an idea on how to do it, but I am looking for suggestions that I might not have thought of.

The only replacements available are smoothie boards, or fiberglass boards and the owner is opposed to both.

I made rear fender braces, one fits, the other doesn't, I have to do some measuring to see why.

[kb426]

Are you considering cutting the rolled lip, straightening everything and then welding back together?

[WZ JUNK]

Place it on a smooth flat slab of concrete.  Place a 2 x 4 under each end and drive the front wheel of a truck or car upon and down the edge.  Try a lighter vehicle first and then something heavier if needed.  If you are reluctant to try the vehicle approach, you might look around for someone who is lighter than an automobile but heavy enough to make the needed adjustment.

John

[enjenjo]

Are you considering cutting the rolled lip, straightening everything and then welding back together?

Not if I can help it. That would create a lot of finish work.

Place it on a smooth flat slab of concrete. Place a 2 x 4 under each end and drive the front wheel of a truck or car upon and down the edge

I had that thought. My concern with that is the thin metal. I would hate to smash it. But the possibility of clamping a piece of tubing inside to support it, then driving over it has crossed my mind.

[kb426]

Rather than drive on it, how about jacking the vehicle up and sliding the running board under it and slowly letting the jack down as you watch.

[GPster]

Rather than drive on it, how about jacking the vehicle up and sliding the running board under it and slowly letting the jack down as you watch.

Put a 2" x 8" on top of the running board between the running board and the vehicle's tire in these conditions. The board will bend with the weight ( new lumber from Lowes) and spread the weight out over it's length . Putting it upside down on a flat floor should show where the crown of the bend's arch is and that would be where the vehicle's weight should be aimed at. Driving on it might not concentrate the force on the right area but using the jack method will let you aim the force and control it. Just adding ideas. GPster

[Rrumbler]

My thinking keeps going back to the idea of driving something onto it, but not a car or truck, maybe an ATV or yard tractor; and only block it up high enough to just barely let it get straight and a bit more, something like some 1 x lumber, and just go at it easy.  I bet getting the vertical "wow" out will likely get the other one out too, pretty much.

[enjenjo]

Well, I have it pretty straight. Still some more to do, but it's close.I have to make a die to straighten the upper edge on the outer side, it is flattened out a bit in the center third of the board. Then I will get the last of the curve out of it. It's off by about 1/4" from being straight from the side, and right on straight on the outside edge. The rig I used with the heavy tubing and short 2x4s is all I used. I welded up a few cracks this evening to make it a bit more stable for further work.

[idrivejunk]

Woops I missed the call for ideas. Sorry about that! I like the solution just fne, thats about what needed to happen for it to not be a mess. In one case of badly bent bed rail on a 55 Chevy truck, I used a 340 lb co-worker as the straightening force by telling him how much to bounce. It worked slick and so did your rig, Frank. Didn't mean to show up tardy.  

[WZ JUNK]

I still want to drive a truck up on it.  Good job Frank.