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I had no luck with NAPA pads. I put a set on a Ford PU and the wheels looked like the pads were charcoal.  While the OEM lasted 45K, the NAPA pads were in the metal in less than 15K.

I gave him the generator style alternator mount off my v8 Z car.  I just wasn't thinking when he called for help.  I'll get by the speed shop next week for a replacement.

My neighbor's generator just isn't getting the job done and I don't think there is a high output one, so he wants to change to alternator.  But the early short water pump doesn't have the mounting boss.  He has later heads so has the holes there.  Does anyone make a mount?

I
Kinda off topic but not. Did anyone watch the kinda benifit deal last nignt? Very interesting............... had to check the news online today for comments about it.  
Dave

The first part of the rapper's rant made the news, where he complained of whites shown as gathering food and blacks as looting, but not the rest where he really got rolling.  "Bush hates black people."  Live TV.

So far I've got the dual carbed BBO, TH400, and 4.11's.  I'm thinking I'll do a GV OD before I get th shaft made.  Does Summit or some discounter sell them?

What's your bolt pattern?

Thanks.  That's the route I'll take, weld a brace to the rear and down to the arm and let them work like ladder bars.

I'm concerned a short arm would cause the rear to rotate as it travels up and down.  Since there are no pivots in the factory arms except at the front, it would cause them to rub on the rear.  I can cut and add a pivot or make the top arm mount nearly where they do, just a little higher to clear the driveshaft.

The Olds came with arms about 4' long that are mounted about 6" apart at the front.  They have a rubber bushed mounting with U bolts at the rear.  However they also used to have a torque tube.  I mounted a '70 Chevelle rear so I need to prevent rotation.  I could try welding the mounts to the rear but the rubber is vulcanized, or just stuck after 65 years and I don't want to destroy it.  Is a 3rd link from the top of the rear my best option?  If so, how long, how much angle, and how to mount to rear and how high?  I haven't cut the two ears off the top yet, but they are angled.  Banks offered some way to mount a torque arm to the rear for Camaro retrofits,  I think he drilled a webbing.  Only bolt holes are rear cover.

There's also www.racepumps.com

There's a picture ripe for a caption.

Just angle mill the mounting surface.  You may need to spot face the bolt holes at the new angle.

If you need the S10 trans to move the shifter forward, then just grab the 3 speed with OD out of an '80's Ford PU.  Shifter comes out of the top cover.  '85 was about the last year for a good looking shifter, later ones got clunky, but they are cheap.

Can you please post a link to that info?

Right now it scrolls through several somethings, usually just opens up, but

https://login.passport.com/login.srf?lc=1033&id=24002&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fgroups%2Emsn%2Ecom%2FZekesHAMBerChat%2F%5Fhomepage%2Emsnw%3F%26pps%3Dk&tw=43200&kv=6&ct=1116847385&cb=wscontext%3D%26wscommname%3D%26wsredir%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fgroups%252Emsn%252Ecom%252FZekesHAMBerChat%252F%255Fhomepage%252Emsnw%253F&kpp=3&ver=2.1.0173.1&tpf=f0e8d2e06a97ee917475dc82d1bfd2fd

If you go to Zeke's HAMBer chat, there is a tech section with a set of blueprints to makew your own crossmember and hats.  Had I had this when, I would have gone this way instead of spending a few hundred bucks for a piece of rect. tubing,  two hats and no instructions.