Messages

I've changed may be 10 batteries this year on various machines and all were sulphided and wouod not hold a charge. It would take several hours to several days for them to die. Try a battery tester and see.

I've seen the suction line from the pump to the frame cause this. Under running conditions they can suck flat and look A-ok when oarked.

could anyone tell me the year they stopped using the thin front oil seal on the chevy oil pan and went to the thick one? Had a friend ask me and I'm dammed if I can remember.

Could someone tell me which is better............... have the temp sensor in the rad hose neck or in the head. I hate the in the neck type as they seem sort of "hay wire".

Lord, I appologise for that.............................

Maybe he hit the beach with his prop and either broke or bent one of the blades.      

I've looked ito this a little bit and understand that the way to do the rears is to have your springs "de-arched" at a springshop and you can retain their "integrety" as far as axle location and control goes then add the bag system. Also no matter what you put on make sure you have adequate stop blocks incase you blow a line or a bag which will enable you to still move with no air.
           From what I can see if a car isn't done "right" air bagging it can severely impact it's value. It's easy to change over to air but gong back is another story.
           I know that if I ran across a car thet had been bagged I'd sure give it a good look over for workmanship. I feel it will be an issue where I live in the coming years as we often run into roadside inspections and a bagged car will be given the third degree.
            Good luck with your project.

Take a deep breath,,,,,,, have a beer,,,,,,,,, leave it a day or two, then tackle one thing at a time,,, enjoy it,, all of it,,, this is the best part.
   I'll bet every member of the RRT has had this and much worse happen to them,, I know I have.

I would imagine to change over you'd blow the system out with air then bleed it thuroughly or should it be flushed with something else?
       I can live with a slightly softer pedel if I can get away from the old weeping wheel cylender every 4 years or so.

If the shock has the "pin through" eye at the bottom, try jamming something under the shock eye then take it out for a test drive. I've seen it where the flex in the shock rubbers will let the metal eye portion of the shock bottom out and "clunk". it will only do it under severe conditions and not when you bounce the car or pry on it.

Damm thing will drive you nuts.

Since many of you here have had some experience in such matters, I thought I should seek your advice on what may end up being a life chaging decision.

I've suspected for some time now that my wife has been having an
affair. The usual signs. Phone rings, I answer, someone hangs up. She
started going out 'with the girls' a lot recently although when I ask
which girls it is always "Just some friends from work, you don't know them".

I always look out for her taxi coming home but she always walks up from the end of the street and I can hear a car taking off from there. Seems as if she has got out of the car round the corner. Why? Is it not a taxi?

Last week I picked up her mobile phone, just to see what time it was and she went beserk and screamed that I should never touch her phone again and why was I checking up on her. Anyway, I've never approached the subject with her probably because deep down I just didn't want to know the truth.

However, last night she went out again and I decided to check on her. I figured I should hide behind my car which would give me a view of
the whole street so I could see which car she gets out of.

It was whilst crouched behind my car that I noticed rust around the rear wheel arch. Should I take it into a panel repair shop or should I buy some stuff from the local Autobarn or Repco parts shop and try to repair it myself?

This is the best posting ever,,,,,,,,,,,,thanks

YIKE!!!
           This spring I'll be doing the fifth brake/hone clean up on my '57 Willys pick up in 20 years and possibly replacing some of the parts due to the truck sitting for several months each year with the DOT3 stuff in it. Yet on the other hand my '83 Chev PU has never been touched short of lining but then it's a daily runner.
            CHRIKY, good thing I'm not thinking about putting nitrogen in my tires! :oops:
            This forum is great. thanks
More, more please,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

I'm going to put silicone brake fluid in my "47 jeep and my '23T. The idea is being as they aren't going to be used alot during the year the brake system will last me alot longer not having it absorb moisture while they are in storage. Does that make sense? It costs alot more but the up side will be no overhauls to the master cylinder or wheel cylinders down the road.
         Anyone else have any experience with this?

Don't want to seem stupid but do you mean the one for the generator?

Batteries can be a real pain. They cost alot no matter what brand you by. If you have a good alternator with good diodes, good grounds, clean connections, tight belts, good cables, you're still faced with the damm things sulphiding and not taking a charge. I think for a guys ride you should rotate the battery from your ride every two years or so and put it into a tractor or another car that's used more and buy the "fresh" one for the ride. A guy can't win with these things they're only good for so long and that's it. Forget about that old starter that's dragging the life out of it everytime you start up.