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Sounds like a reasonable way to me. I know I'm gonna sound like a world class * but  did you strip all four?

Charlie

Just two (front), then i figured out I was in a mess and left the regular lugs on the back..

Guess that means I'm half-stupid!

could you possabilly get a small gringer in there carefully and make a couple of flat spots then use a cresent?

I may try that first...thanks!

If it makes you feel any better you're not the first person to have a problem like this.

If you can't wait to get to 348, the old "trick" is to get a socket that just fits the outside of the "lock" lug, jam it on and then hit it with an impact wrench.  Then you can drive the lug out of the socket.  Use a thick wall socket if you've got it or it could split.

that's worth a try!

So when are you coming thru.   I am just west of Ann Arbor and I have a bunch of the removal sockets.  I won't be available Thursday night and I am heading to Kazoo Friday AM . Maybe I  cam help.
Don[/quote]

I'm heading out Friday AM, I think i'll just have to deal with it when I get back, although I'd better get a can of the "fix-a-flat stuff....just in case!

Here's one you have probably not seen before...

I'm getting ready to go to K'Zoo.  Being the paranoid individual I am, I was installing wheel locks to prevent my wheels from walking away @ night.
Somehow I didn't notice that my torque wrench was adjusted WAY up, and I managed to strip the internal "Key to the lock and now they won't come off.
The locks are the type with the unique internal configuration with a matching "key".  If it was the key that stripped, I could just get another one sent from the manufacturer, but it's the lug nut itself.  I'm thinking I may need to find a REALLY good TIG welder to spot weld the key onto the lug so I can turn it off, but I don't want to ruin my aluminum wheels.

Any thoughts?

Can't really tell from the photo....Is that grill a custom piece?[/quote]

After-market, not exactly stock, but not really custom either

or you can just turn up the heat in the garage![/quote]

No garage heat yet, I may just have to tough it out!

I love the color as well.  Is that the Ford Ranger/Mustang '93ish color??

Right on the money, "Sonic Blue"  Ford/Ranger circa 2003 actually

Who painted it??

Custom Images in Amherstburg ON, a little slow, but does good work

It's taken over a year, but the 37 is home and painted!!!  Hopefully the weather will co-operate and I can finish assembly, get the interior done and be on the road in the spring[/img]

[

2nd: Pressure Reducer shims, I never really seen much coverage of where to get them and if they work that well. Where can I get them, how do I put them in?

Mullins sells the shims (they seem the same as whats on the "reduced pressure valve" and they're quite cheap.  I paid $25.00 (CDN) from Hortins in Canada, but I have no idea where and how much state-side.  I ended up using a couple of the shims on the reduced pressure valve, to get a slower feel to my steering, and the tests are promising (not "officially" on the road yet)!  The shim kit has good instructions and a "tool" to hold the valve in a vise without damaging it while working on it.

Rob

www.37chev.homestead.com

Hey Bill, glad to see other rodders helping out! I have been a Paramedic for about 16 years, am also a Respiratory Therapist.

Vance

Hey nice to see another RRT/RRCP here, I thought I was the only one!

Rob

Thanks for the great diagrams!  Actually, I tried the DPDT switches with the cross-over grounding and they work fine.  I think next time though I'll go the relay route, those switches aren't cheap!

Rob

[

Here is a site that has a ton of that stuff........ check it out  
http://www.the12volt.com/


Thanks, what a great site!

Rob

Only one thing to add.

 If so you can use a single-pole miniature switch with two relays.   The wiring is not complicated, you still only require two wires to the door, and the wiring to the switches can be very light gauge.

Is there someplace I can find a schematic for the wiring that your talking about.  I'd like to use the DPDT switches, but if I can't, the relays sound like a good idea!

Thanks!