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I have been to the NSRA Nats in Louisville, but never to a Good Guys event. What all takes place at one of these? Since they have Nashville, TN on their schedule now, I plan on trying to go to that one. The only other one that has been close to me was Ft. Worth, TX.

Oh yeah, the dates for this event are June 23-25, 2006 at Titan Stadium.
AL

Better get crackin on rooms!  The downtown entertainment is excellent if you like live country music etal.  I go at least once a month...just to kick back.  World class music/entertainment

Best places to stay...... Courtyard By Marriott downtown and the Marriott at the Airport.  Others too, but nice places....and usually cheap...but GGs will screw that up!  I made reservations before they knew what hit them...hehehehehe!  $89...weekend special/day.

See you there.....

Could the case have failed first due to stress....launching parts or part thereof into the innerts....causing more damage?  I have seen this before when either there is no rear crossmember mount (as in some tri-fives and some streetrod applications ....where the tranny is hanging off the "dogeared" mounts from the side) or rigid tranny/engine mounting not allowing the engine AND the tranny to flex in the same plain. The case cracks and drops pieces inside and it's a domino effect tuff to diagnose?

HOw is this one mounted?  Just curious...or do we know for sure that it was flying parts from the inside that exited stage ....right..er..ah...top?

Who makes a smaller distributor that will work with my motor and what do I need to look for.  Thanks.

DAve's HEI conversions are good.  But, there is literally a whole plethoria of aftermarket distributors that will fit and work great.  Mallory, MSD, Pertronix to name a few.

I always thought that N2 was used to inflate tires in high stress situations like on an airliner so that if sufficient heat were to build up inside the tire, there would be no oxidizing agent to react with the rubber, or any other flamable substance inside the tire causing a fast rise in pressure and possibly causing a catastrophic failure of the tire.

Good observation!

As an A&P, I can tell you that nitrogen is used widely and almost exclusively (most aircraft manufacturers will let you top off with dry compressed air (if N is not available)........


First, yes...temperature stability from the "dry" nitrogen is a wanted feature to stabilize tire pressures at wider operational temperature ranges...and yes the "dry" part is the most important here.. There is considerable heat generated by stopping an aircraft, so the temp ranges far exceed that of a car.

"PART 25--AIRWORTHINESS STANDARDS: TRANSPORT CATEGORY AIRPLANES 25.733 (e) For an airplane with a maximum certificated takeoff weight of more than 75,000 pounds, tires mounted on braked wheels must be inflated with dry nitrogen or other gases shown to be inert so that the gas mixture in the tire does not contain oxygen in excess of 5 percent by volume, unless it can be shown that the tire liner material will not produce a volatile gas when heated or that means are provided to prevent tire temperatures from reaching unsafe levels." MOre to follow.
 
Secondly, flying at high altitudes...any moisture will/can be rung out of the air and freeze inside the tire! This is a no-no and a very unwanted aspect.  The ice can produce destruction inside the tires.  Third....the decrease in migration from the tires is a wanted feature as well even tho this is probably the least aspect. Forth.....brake fires are frequent on aircraft and N is a safer and more stable gas should the tire fail (see para above).  Fifth, common pressures in aircraft tires are in excess of 200psi - 300psi and oxidation rates at these pressures are far more than automotive applications. So, the reduction of oxidation is a wanted feature as well.  Sixth point.....convenience.  You can easily liquify N in a bottle and make it very portable.....where as you can't do that with air per se.

Just tooooo much info.

I think this product is really aimed at the average joe...and not us per sei.  I know folks that NEVER  check their tire pressure....leaving it to the quick change places only.  But, I submit that it's based on good science and not BS.  Truck fleets are going to this in droves.

I also respectfully challange the notion that heat doesn't build up in STREET tires. It's obviously not like racing tires....but it happens.  I also may have misspoke when I used the word "dissipate" when actually it's more like "stable" in stead.....as prudently pointed out.

I have gotten off the interstate here in Hotlanta before only to find out that you could not hold your hand on the tire much to my surprise?  After replicating this...I shot the iR and tires can be a sultry 120+ plus (that was 55 degrees delta from that morning ambient temps)! The reason is simple.  Our cars blow heat down at the pavement and we all know these black surfaces suck heat up too from sunlight (ever try walking across a blacktop parking lot in your bare feet?) which gets transfered to your tires .......so the combination of heated air and moisture (vapor as correctly pointed out) will change the pressure drastically with temps.  This is the MAIN feature with this product......temperature and migration stability.

Supposidly by all accounts.......a pultry 5lb underinflation can cost you as much as 20% in fuel? So, with losing a couple of pounds of pressure month....you can see where this is going.  I frequently find my daughters car tires at less than 20psi???  And my wife won't ever check! So go figure.

Some tire dealers, and service stations, are starting to recommend filling passenger car tires with nitrogen.

Ingersoll-Rand, who makes a system to separate nitrogen from compressed air, claims 40% better pressure retention, 30% longer tire life, and up to 6% increase in fuel economy, if tires are filled with nitrogen.  

These sound like claims which would be hard to substantiate!  ....Of course, the "up to 6% increase in fuel economy" could mean .001 mpg!

I know nitrogen has been used for many years to fill tires in aviation and race-car tires.  ....Now there is a move to promote it for street-use tires.

Snake oil?  ....Or, valid claims?

I'd like to hear your opinions.

I'm here to learn!

Actually, I submit that the nitrogen atom to be larger than oxygen?  And "air" is made up of several molecules and nitrogen will leak alot slower from the tire and therefore......... they diffuse less easily through a tire's sidewall. As a result, tires filled with nitrogen tend to remain properly inflated longer.

In addition, nitrogen disperses heat more quickly than compressed air, resulting in cooler-running tires, which helps make them last longer. This temperature stability will keep the tires inflated to the exacting pressure instead of expanding and contracting with temperature.

The advantages are obvious. Tires that remain properly inflated experience longer tread life and exhibit lower rolling resistance, improving fuel mileage. Nitrogen also makes tires safer simply by keeping them fully inflated longer and does not support combustion. Air-filled tires, in contrast, tend to lose pressure over time, which becomes a problem only because so few drivers check their air pressure regularly.

Typically, tires filled with air leak about 2.8 lbs per month and filled with nitrogen...only .7lbs per month.  

But, nitrogen costs alot to fill up with...about $20 per fill I have seen.

Hey guys,

I've got a question to throw into the pile here. I have a GM ZZ-4 crate motor. I bought a lot of parts getting ready to build the car in the past few years. Sold the last car and thought I'd better get the parts with the money or it might disappear for other things. Now my question. I bought a 750 Edelbrock carb for the motor. The motor is running in the car but has yet to see the street. Is the 750 to big for the motor? I can't return it and don't want to sell it at a loss and buy a smaller one. I was wondering if it can be corrected with the right springs and rods. Seem to be a little gassy in the garage when it's running.

bob

I have found that 600s are more adaptable to these ZZ4s with better throttle response.  It's not like they are turning high rpms and need 750s but you can easily tune the 750 to your engine with a calibration kit and patience. Lot's of folks running them.

The "gassy" garage smell means your idle circuit is not tuned correctly and has absolutely nothing to do with size of carb. Turn the mixture screws in a quarter turn and see if it goes away, but keeps a stable idle.  You can actually tune with vacuum gauges or a tach.  I prefer the vacuum gauge.

It's not really on the tailpipes - it shoots black smoke straight out. I'd like to put it on one of those exhaust analizers and compare before and after changing jets. Thanxf or the link George.

Sounds like the accellerator pump is set too high if it's puffing black smoke or soot on slight throttle movement.  I would move the arm away from the carb to the lower holes one at a time. This leans the pump.

The transition circuit that manages the rods/jets with springs.... actually comes a tad lean working with some anticipated performance cams. The spring is usually the "orange" spring which usually has to be change to a more stiff or silver spring with the less cam and more vacuum you have.

Whatever your selection, the best pumps are internally regulated to about a 6lb output pressure which is perfect for most carbs.  All of the unregulated models can go as high as 10psi which is waaaaaaaaay too high for all the carbs that I can think of.

Also, the high gpm models are NOT necessary for 99% of the street applications....so a stock or "higher" performance models are great, don't need the "racing" junk.

Thanks, but we will be gone by September. Austin looks like a nice place, so it won't matter if we get a couple of days to just play tourist.

If you around Austin.....and ya love ribs and barbeque....ya got to go to the best joint in the nation in Driftwood Texas called the Salt Lick.  Wow...what an experience.  

http://www.saltlickbbq.com/  for info and directions...you won't be sorry. But, bring your own beer....Texas is really screwy about their liquor laws.

Upside down is okay! I have put one in the 32 for 5 years upside down and narry a problem.

From the website of Optima...."Optimas are completely sealed and do not leak. They can be mounted in vehicle sideways or even upside down and they will not leak acid like standard batteries. With an Optima, you will not see your terminals or battery tray corrode as you would with standard batteries. If you want high battery performance for your vehicle, an Optima is the battery for you."

First, a full Optima cell battery will read at least 12.78 volts and as high as 13volts depending on model.

Your alt should be charging above this figure into the 14s at 2000rpms.


So, it's the regulator in my opinion.

The exhibitors at Lville are great.......but com'mon, it takes me a half day to go thru with my mouth a flappin!

I for one think L'ville (the town of) is boring.  How many restaurants on the river do you want to eat at?

Going east on 64 and look for horse farms with tours.  Pretty neat to see world class horses and kids love it.

One of the most beautiful parks is just an hour away at Cliffy Falls State Park in Madison Indiana and quaint shops abound downtown Madison.  I would take the falls in and other park activities too.  The drive along the river is awesome too.

Indy is just 100 miles to the north and lots to do there.  Take in the Zoo (one of the country's best) and IMAX downtown ( a real kid favorite....and me too).  Lot's of places to eat downtown too.  Just make sure you come around noon and get out of town by 5..... traffic for the Brickyard will be a problem outside those hours. Just trek downtown on 65 and exit at Illinois and follow the signs.

See my comments here.. http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1272707&page=0&sb=&o=&vc=1&PHPSESSID=#Post1272707

I'll post my answer here for what it's worth as well.

I think it's the vacuum booster one way check valve.  This valve is built into the connection port to all boosters allowing one way vacuum when the pedal is depressed. If the valve is faulty or installed wrong it can "capture" vacuum in the diaphram/plenum and not release the brakes until the engine is stopped.  Check the valve for proper operation.  You should be able to blow thru the booster end unfettered.

But, there is another internal valve inside the booster that could be the culprit as well. This is not accessible and could be a fault too.

On my everyday driver(1994 F-250) the a/c is not working good,and i see that the expantion valve is all iced up.
What is the problem and how do I fix it.
thanks Russ&Irene

Usually icing is a sign of low frigerant believe it or not.  I know....most would think the other way around but there is not enough cooling media (refrigerant) to remove heat effectively.  So, ice you get usually inside at the evap.

Does it work just for a matter of minutes then quits?  This is the sign.