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Flex Lite fan arrived yesterday.  Finished installation and checked circuit this afternoon.  Difficult installation.  Everything works fine except the fan pushes instead of pulls.  When I hold a piece of paper to the fan that is mounted on the back of the radiator (the side towards the engine) the fan is blowing the paper forward toward the radiator and the front of the vehicle.  I am tired, not very happy, and not thinking clearly.  Did they send me the wrong fan?

John

Which Flex unit is it?  If it has a shroud like the black magic (with encased shroud)....the blades are only made to suck (with the leading edges or curved in the middle hump) rotating in that direction....so if it's running backward...then the polarity of the motor leads is reversed.

Grind down the bolts on the pulley to give you 3.19" of space...and use the Derale #16926 model.

See more here.. http://www.derale.com/electricfans.shtml

Please post an email addy or send it to me at hotrodsrj@bellsouth.net to send the entire file to you in word please. I have no email addys for you guys.

I share a few with you guys.  Thanks for the opportunity to post here.

Fatcat@roddingroundtable.com will do it, or enjenjo@earthlink.net

You have mail!

Please post an email addy or send it to me at hotrodsrj@bellsouth.net to send the entire file to you in word please. I have no email addys for you guys.

I share a few with you guys.  Thanks for the opportunity to post here.

We are running this until the first of the month, a prize for the best Tech, judged by an independent observer. Get 'em in guys!!

Where do we submit articles?   I have about a dozen or so that I have either written for magazines or web sites that I would like to submit.

ya know ..... Amsoil is a top syn type oil.  Built from top level base oil products.  Often Mobil 1 & others oils are from base stock of highly refined dyno oils, not syn base material.


If you want I can provide a email to a guy that sells Amsoil at a low price. He is a 1800 Goldwing guy on a bbs I visit.

Oil is shipped from a local Amsoil warehouse.

I have no $$ connection , just offering a different idear.

Just a clarification.

Amsoil is a very good product and is API rated...many years they weren't.  YOu are correct about Amsoil about being made from Group IV and V base stocks, which are truly synthetic (man made) medias.....but so it Mobile One, Royal Purple, Redline products.  The rest are "highly refined" so-called synthetics, but are superior to the regular Group III based stocked dino stuff.

Also on the seal debate of old.  It used to be that certain synthetics could have an adverse affect (shrinking) on certain seals in the engine...causing leaking.  The forumlation of synthetics was changed about 10 years ago to remove the certain additive that contributed to this.  Now...there is no affect on seals nor will synthetic oil cause your engine to use more oil per se.

Here is a good link out of the UK (European automotive oil standards are actually tuffer than ours).

http://www.whatprice.co.uk/car/synthetic-oil.html

Synthetic oils are not new contrary to popular belief.  They have been around for awhile.....and Mobile has pioneered Group IV and V base stock products (which are different from Group III which are used in just about every other vendor's applications as "synthetic" oil...but not really?). Brands such as Mobile One, Amsoil, Royal Purple, Redline are just a few of the real synthetic products.

I made the "synthetic" leap over 10 years ago and use Mobile One exclusively.  As an aircraft mechanic I saw it in spades as far as the performance advantages.  I push my everyday drivers and performance drivers to once a year oil changes  (which turn out to be around 15K for my drivers and 5 K for the others).  I have tested my 15K oil (sent it to a lab) and it still tested acceptable for use in all categories. It's important to use a high quality filter such as Mobile One or any Wix product (such as the NAPA Golds) to filter out particulate with extended products. Today's newer engines are not like their past brethern in that the combustion by-products are simply not there...and the media wear is missing too. Therefore ...the oil stays fresher longer.

True synthetics (made from Group IV and V base stocks) are slipprier, perform under higher temps/lower temps, have higher surface adhesion properties, and are just superior products to regular dino stuff.

If you changing your oil every 3000 miles for normal driving conditions...your wasting your money...kinda like the burn 93 octane is better myth.  Even OEMs say 7500 is enough with regular oils...so syns can be pushed much further.  Mobile One is the product of choice for Mercedes and of course comes in the Corvette right off the production line.  These companies have put mega $$$$ in R &D to accomplish this for a reason.  

In short, you should see a modest milage gain, gains on the dyno too, and will not degrade anywhere near as fast.  Just do it!

I'm just curies about what timing you Chevy guy run your small block. Now when the gas price is going sky-high I must concern about to get as much mile per gallon as possible but without to sacrifice power. The gas price here in Sweden is 5 Dollar per gallon. :x  I run 16 initial and a total of 36 in my 327, all in by 3200 rpm. But I didn't take the time to really test other combinations. I know it's a trial and error to get it right. I have the original weights with medium spring in my Hei. I tried some Mr. Gasket weight but don't like them. Somebody might have some advice on this?
My 327 are a stock 300 hp with weiand Stealth and Holly 600 vacuum.

Per

Well, I hate to disagree with the others.....but while total is important for power production ...so is initial and certainly vacuum advance for milage and drivability.

See my diatribe here.... http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB64&Number=1105501&Searchpage=1&Main=1105264&Words=%26quot%3Bcamaros.net%26quot%3B&topic=&Search=true

Good reading on other timing aspects

Remember; physics explains everything!

Right on brother!    Well...er....ahh....how about women??  

When you get that dialed in, the vacuum advance can be set, somewhere between 8 and 14 degrees at idle, depending on what the initial advance is, and what makes the engine run good.

Thanks for the advice.  Is that 8 - 14 beyond the initial advance set at idle without the vacuum attached?

Depending on cam and engine specs.... 8 to 12 degrees intial "static" advance (without VA hooked up) is a good start. And again, 30+ total (static + mechanical) is a good start too.

Vacuum advance is a misunderstood subject.  Most engines like to have at least 25+ degrees of advance at idle (again depending on idle speed specs etc) and more is sometimes okay too. I have seen some around 40 degrees with no problems.  The faster the idle...the more advance they like to make the burn time correctly.  I usually like around 25 to 30 degrees of static + vacuum advance for all my applications. It aids in cooling and leans the mixture out.  It also takes some of the "cammy" attitude out of the exhaust note...but no big deal to me.

In case you want to know more about vacuum advance ...go here for a good discusion and my diatribe on Vacuum Advance 101 (I stole it tho!)

http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB64&Number=1105501&Searchpage=1&Main=1105264&Words=%26quot%3Bcamaros.net%26quot%3B&topic=&Search=true#Post1105501

Slocrow emailed me with the sad news that Dyno Don Nicholson has passed away.

Sad indeed!  Growing up on the west side of INDY and watching these marvelous characters during the 60s and 70s come to IRP for the NATS was GREAT, and Don always would talk to anyone!  

I also remember him from hangin with Raymond Beadle for years...a genuinly nice guy and always had a jab or two to share with everyone!

One of my favorite shows/cruises of couse is the "Cruise the Coast" and I know the coast is devastated......and I just heard that it will take a few years to get back to ANY sense of normalacy...... any news on that show?

I would suppose that the hotels have to be rebuilt and casinos before another one is even planned?

Anyone?

Nashville is one of my favorite destinations.  Lots to do downtown and I love live "honky-tonk" music there.  The talent is simply awesome at Legend's Corner, Roberts, The Stage etc.  Live music typically starts at 2pm to 2am....and it gets better as it gets later....and so do the women folk!  

My favorite Hotel is the Downtown Courtyard...because you can walk to the restaurants and bars...but the parking is poor....so for a car event I would recommend the airport Marriott (which is the host hotel and has a few rooms left but...$$).  Also, there is a Best Western downtown that is close to the action...a Hilton and a few other downtown hotels.

My other choices would be those located either at the airport (only 10 minute drive down I40) or on Elmspike on right off Briley Parkway.    

I am sure there are the "dive" places sprinkled throughout.

See you there.

The only reason I can think of that GM would specify dielectric grease is they weren't concerned about heat transfer for some reason. Maybe the part doesn't get that warm? Maybe they want you to buy more of them? Maybe the technical manual people didn't enterpret the engineering specifications properly?

Given the use, I think I'd still use a thermal compound. Good thinking posting here to get input and help you make up your mind. Sometimes it's good to question if you're doing things the best way possible. But that's why I'm here, to get the collective knowledge to do things the best way, not just the factory way. If the factory way was always the best there might not be much of an aftermarket?

                                              Steve

I am with you on this one Steve.  For the most part....stock HEIs with coils that are stock probably do NOT need a lot of heat sinking (simple corrosion control) becaused they are designed as such......but as you add lots of RPMs (since the frequency/rpms determines how long the coil remains saturated to the limit of the coil specifications...meaning the average current will increase thru the module) and of course fancy-smancy aftermarket coils that provide extra high spark (again...a current to voltage device ...so increase in current and therefore power)...both will require extra heat sinking to some degree.

I know...I have mixed hipo coils with cheap modules only to overheat them and eat them up and this results.....



I'm stick'in to heatsink grease since that's what it is?

Dielectric grease usually is silicone based, water/moisture/corrosion resistant lubricant that protects against high voltage electrical arcing to a certain specification (usually MIL S8660).  They usually are very temperature stable as well.... -40* to 450* ish!  They do not have heat conducting properties per se...but will conduct heat to a certain extent.

A heatsink grease is completely different in that while they are silicone based and a good dielectric......and temperature stable...they have metal-oxide fillers (that are non conductive from an electrical standpoint) that promote heat transfer at very high rates.

I would use the heat sink grease on the module for heat transfer and I have only seen quality modules come with the heat sink grease (white paste).  Radio Shack would have it.