Mobile 1 thoughts....

1FATGMC · April 23, 2006, 09:36:43 PM

I use to be pretty sloppy about regular oil changes on the used cars I owned over the years. Ever since I built my pickup (1FATGMC) 13 years and about 130,000 miles ago I've tried to change the oil on it every 3,000 miles and also on the other vehicles I have. I always thought about using a full synthetic, but was always too cheap, still wanting to change the oil every 3000 miles. So I compromised by using Valvoline Dual blend over the last 10-12 years. I haven't had anything to really comment about it and usually get about 1200 miles from a quart. My front seal leaks and it appears the back is also leaking and they leave a small puddle under the truck parked so I think some of my usage is leakage with the rest being consumed by the running motor.

I was in a Walmart a couple months ago and saw I could get a 5 quart container of the Mobile 1 extended use, 15,000 mile, for about $26.00. I decided to try it and go past the 3,000 mile changes I've been doing. I worried about the stories of it going past the seals and maybe getting less than 1200 miles to a quart.

Well the opposite has happened. I've been using 10-40 dual blend and the Mobile 1 is 15-50 so that might be part of it. I changed the oil a couple weeks ago. Then took a trip down to Gallup and back, 400 miles and the oil didn't drop on the dip stick at all. Then a week ago my mom required my help in Missouri and I made the 1200 mile trip to her place last week. I'm now about 1/4 quart low after 1600 miles. I'm impressed.

Also running with a warm motor at 2500 rpm down the interstate my oil pressure with the old oil had dropped to about 38-40 lbs.. Now it is up to 44-46 lbs. at the same rpm.

Also coming I got 17 mpg the first stretch, 21 the next, 20+ the next and about 18+ on the last leg to my mom's. About 2 mpg more than I had been getting. This might of been the good tail wind I had, but usually I do have a tail wind coming this way. Also I was driving a little faster most of the way on the interstate at 80-85 vs. the 75-80 I usually run. Made it the 1000 miles from Utah to Tulsa, Ok the first day.

I think I'm sold on this stuff at this point. Anybody else use it?

I'm thinking the reduced comsumption and higher oil pressure is probably the 50 weight over the 40 weight, but I guess that is ok if I'm getting good lubrication. Just thought I would pass this on in case anyone else is considering trying it and haven't.

c ya, Sum

phat rat · April 23, 2006, 09:42:28 PM

I use it in my 02 HD with an 8.1 and picked up 1 mpg towing my 6x10 enclosed trailer but I don't use it in anything else. Didn't notice any difference in consumption though.

HOTRODSRJ · April 23, 2006, 10:00:14 PM

Synthetic oils are not new contrary to popular belief. They have been around for awhile.....and Mobile has pioneered Group IV and V base stock products (which are different from Group III which are used in just about every other vendor's applications as "synthetic" oil...but not really?). Brands such as Mobile One, Amsoil, Royal Purple, Redline are just a few of the real synthetic products.

I made the "synthetic" leap over 10 years ago and use Mobile One exclusively. As an aircraft mechanic I saw it in spades as far as the performance advantages. I push my everyday drivers and performance drivers to once a year oil changes (which turn out to be around 15K for my drivers and 5 K for the others). I have tested my 15K oil (sent it to a lab) and it still tested acceptable for use in all categories. It's important to use a high quality filter such as Mobile One or any Wix product (such as the NAPA Golds) to filter out particulate with extended products. Today's newer engines are not like their past brethern in that the combustion by-products are simply not there...and the media wear is missing too. Therefore ...the oil stays fresher longer.

True synthetics (made from Group IV and V base stocks) are slipprier, perform under higher temps/lower temps, have higher surface adhesion properties, and are just superior products to regular dino stuff.

If you changing your oil every 3000 miles for normal driving conditions...your wasting your money...kinda like the burn 93 octane is better myth. Even OEMs say 7500 is enough with regular oils...so syns can be pushed much further. Mobile One is the product of choice for Mercedes and of course comes in the Corvette right off the production line. These companies have put mega $$$$ in R &D to accomplish this for a reason.

In short, you should see a modest milage gain, gains on the dyno too, and will not degrade anywhere near as fast. Just do it!

1FATGMC · April 23, 2006, 10:05:36 PM

Quote from: "HOTRODSRJ".......... It's important to use a high quality filter such as Mobile One or any Wix product (such as the NAPA Golds) to filter out particulate with extended products............

I use to use the Fram filters until I read all the bad press on them. Switched to the NAPA Golds about 3 years ago.

c ya, Sum

Ohio Blue Tip · April 23, 2006, 10:09:09 PM

I have been using Mobile 1 in all my vehicles for several years now, even my lawn mower and snow blower. I use 5w 30 in my new vehicals and 10w 30 in my rod and older stuff. I change oil at 6000 to 7000 miles. It is common to have an increase in oil pressure on older vehicles. Don't use Mobile 1 for break ins as it is to slick, I change to Mobile 1 after break in. For break ins I use Valvoline 10w 30.

donsrods · April 23, 2006, 10:54:18 PM

I started using Mobil 1 in my '27 10 years ago, and as soon as I did, I noticed the temp gauge dropped 10-20 degrees, and the oil pressure went up. Plus, I could feel the difference in HP.

We use it exclusively at our Marina when a customer asks for synthetic on his service.

I broke the oil pump driveshaft on the 302 in the '27, and thought I had blown a header gasket until I noticed the gauge on zero. Changed the pump and driveshaft, and the engine had no damage, and it was rattling pretty good.

Also, unlike crude oil, each batch is exactly like the last one. Crude varies from batch to batch, they tell me.

Don

Carnut · April 23, 2006, 10:58:48 PM

Sum, I've used Mobil One synthetic 10W50 in all my cars since it came out.

I change oil at 5000, just because it's easier on my memory to calculate the intervals.

Crosley.In.AZ · April 23, 2006, 11:50:55 PM

Syn oils maintain viscosity better. I noticed that when I started using SynTec oil many years ago. I could see the oil pressure drop at idle when I got over 3k miles on dino type oils in my ZZ4 motor in my 71 chev truck.

I use Mobil 1 oil in most of my vehicles. I use Rotella Syn oil in my Falcon, it's cheaper to buy at Wally world.

Pep · April 24, 2006, 03:01:54 AM

Nothing to add, the guys have said all there is to know...I'll just say..it's good stuff.

BFS57 · April 24, 2006, 12:42:17 PM

Hello;
I just changed my oil in my '57. A buddy of mine had the Mobil 1 stuff he purchased for his new Vette but it was the wrong viscosity. So in it goes in the 350. Wow! all and more that was said before my post here. I like it! Fairly cheap (if you look for a sale or buy at Costco.
I'm Sold!
Bruce

34ford · April 24, 2006, 01:43:47 PM

OK, I have a question for you guys. I have a new ZZ4 crate motor in my 34. Have started it and run it for a few short minutes in the car while I was getting everything set up. Didn't have the radiator hooked up so that why the short run time.

Do they break in these engines? It did have oil in when I got it. I drained out the oil so I could paint it on the engine stand.

So here's my question. Can I start out with the Mobil-1 or should I run some regular for a break in period.

thanks

bob

enjenjo · April 24, 2006, 02:01:06 PM

They are run, but they are not run. They fill them with oil, and drive them with an electric motor to check pressures and noises. They monitor the amount of current drawn to tell if everything is right. After that the oil is drained, and reused in another test engine.

So to answer your question, it is not broken in, you should run regular oil for a while to break it in. Then switch to synthetic.

Since so many of the people I respect are using synthetic oil, I may try it.

EMSjunkie · April 24, 2006, 02:06:01 PM

Quote from: "enjenjo"
Since so many of the people I respect are using synthetic oil, I may try it.

I may just follow suite. I have been skeptical in the past, but with so many folks touting its virtues, I may be persuaded to switch. :?

besides, if it has that jack-stand guys approval, thats good enough for me.

Vance

GPster · April 24, 2006, 03:46:06 PM

We're all much better listening to the merits rather than make a decision by what we think we know. I know back in the '60s I worked in the auto department of a discount mart. I was a senior in high school and was given the family car to get back and forth to my job after school. This was a '59 Rambler station wagon and it was somewhat my mother's pride. Even though she didn't drive this was the first time that the family finances had ever become healthy enough to make car payments. As an offer of good will I changed the oil and used the BEST Valvolene multi-grade high detergent oil that I could buy at my new job. It started burning oil. Added more oil and it burned it up too. Changed it again and it got worse. Pulled the valve cover wondering if the drain-back holes were plugged, even eventually changed the head thinking that the valve seals were bad. The car ran decent, didn't foul the plugs and the engine would free-rev to 7,000 RPM so you could double-clutch it into first at 40 MPH but it burned oil to the point that it got 20 miles to a quart. It got banned from one town. Found out later that high detergent oil was a shock to a system that had spent its' life on non-detergent oil. But I didn't find out fast enough, it bit me again on a '48 Dodge truck. When I worked at Shell Chemical One of my jobs was to monitor the hydrogen compressor when we made Shellvis. Shellvis is a hydrogenated plastic compound used to make multi-viscosity oil. I now understood the difference between non-detergent and hi-detergent oils but was a little leery of oil with plastic in it. I also figured racing oil would be better than the same viscosity of regular oil so when I bought myself a Ford Ranger in '86 with the 2,300 four in it I had the oil changed every 3,500 miles and used Valvolene 30 Wt racing oil in it. At 50,000 miles (highway miles) I pulled the engine and had it re-ringed. It was burning 1 1/2 Qt, every 1,000 miles. Hell I had a Pinto with 85,000 miles that everyone drove so we never kept track on when to change oil. It didn't burn a quart. So there are a lot of sides to look at on this question. Maybe soon I'll start to look up. GPster

34ford · April 24, 2006, 04:31:43 PM

Quote from: "enjenjo"After that the oil is drained, and reused in another test engine.

quote]

Thanks for the information.

Interesting. Mine had the oil left in it. Full level on the dipstick. On the specs for the motor off the net it says 5-30 so guess I will use it for the first oil change. Maybe that explains what I noticed when I drained the oil the magnetic drain plug some metal filings and a small piece of metal that looked to be from a hole being tapped. Think if they would have drained the oil they would have cleaned off the tip of the drain plug. So I'm thinking maybe a oil change after the 1st 1000 or so miles. Changed the filter that I put on it when I first started it. Threw it away, wished I would have cut it open to see what was inside of it after the run.

bob