What are you doing today? 2017

[58 Yeoman]

   George

Today I inquired how much to ship the back seat of a 2002 Grand Prix to Michigan. $350!    :?    Yeah but naw.

When I had something big to ship, everyone always told me to ship it Greyhound or Fastenal. I had called Greyhound in Peoria, and they didn't know what I was talking about. Maybe you'd have better luck where you are. I never tried Fastenal.

[wayne petty]

By the way.... the Proper vent hose size is not available at all parts stores.. some have never heard of that size.. some may have it and don't know about it..


9/32" Armor Mark wiper washer and vacuum Hose Part number 50213
Alternate Part Number: 65114  probably a goodyear part number.  if that brand is still available.
this is also used as coolant overflow hose for the fitting out the side of the radiator neck.

Dave ...What is a "rear brake splitter box"   :?:

Bob..

It also called a dohicky.  

[idrivejunk]

   George

Today I inquired how much to ship the back seat of a 2002 Grand Prix to Michigan. $350!    :?    Yeah but naw.

When I had something big to ship, everyone always told me to ship it Greyhound or Fastenal. I had called Greyhound in Peoria, and they didn't know what I was talking about. Maybe you'd have better luck where you are. I never tried Fastenal.

Hey thanks for the tips! I remember Greyhound  http://www.shipgreyhound.com/e/pages/FAQ.aspx  and was unaware of Fastenal's service. https://www.fastenal.com/en/22/third-party-logistics-(3pl) so maybe there's hope. He needs all the seats and I was thinking of just selling him the covers. If I had a lick of sense I'd have sent them with the blue show truck to Detroit. I didn't know about that til after though. Thanks again.

[Charlie Chops 1940]

   George

Today I inquired how much to ship the back seat of a 2002 Grand Prix to Michigan. $350!    :?    Yeah but naw.

When I had something big to ship, everyone always told me to ship it Greyhound or Fastenal. I had called Greyhound in Peoria, and they didn't know what I was talking about. Maybe you'd have better luck where you are. I never tried Fastenal.

Hey thanks for the tips! I remember Greyhound  http://www.shipgreyhound.com/e/pages/FAQ.aspx  and was unaware of Fastenal's service. https://www.fastenal.com/en/22/third-party-logistics-(3pl) so maybe there's hope. He needs all the seats and I was thinking of just selling him the covers. If I had a lick of sense I'd have sent them with the blue show truck to Detroit. I didn't know about that til after though. Thanks again.

I've had parts shipped Greyhound to me but I have not shipped outbound by them yet. I have asked for quotes 3 times from the Fastenal logistics group and in each case it was either too expensive, to heavy for the receiving store or some other such reason.

[chimp koose]

got the lower rear panel below the trunk off again along with the rear cross member . Anyone have a good way of moving the body in 5/8" at the lower trunk opening ? I have to re install the lower cross member before I start pulling the sides of the trunk in . I was thinking I would use some kind of turnbuckle to bring the sides in . I have already made the bolt in brace for the bottom of the trunk shorter by the right amount . I was thinking that if I could just pull the sides in , I could bolt the brace back in to hold it in place . Seems a little like tuning a guitar string . I hope it pulls in evenly , but I am not sure how to make sure it does . I know to measure my diagonals but what to do if they are out ? . If anyone has some advice , now is the time ! Thanks , Chimp

[kb426]

Is it possible to use 2 clamps and a pull ram on a portapower?

[enjenjo]

A turn buckle sounds like a good idea. Here's how I suggest you do it.

One side at a time. Don't install the rear crossmember. Decide how much to move it, and divide that in two. Brace one side so it can't move, including at least one diagonal brace so you can pull against it. With your turn buckle pull the other side in about 1/8" more than one half the distance. Tap lightly with a plastic or wood mallet at any strong points in the quarter, near the front of the trunk lid. The vibration from hitting it will set the new position. Don't hit it hard enough to make dents. It is the same effect as heating it a bit since heat is vibration. Release the pressure holding it, and see if it stays at one half the distance in. If not, pull it in a bit more, repeat the mallet work, and check again. Repeat until it stays in the new position with the pressure released.

Now reset you bracing to the other side, and repeat the steps you did on the first side. When you are done both sides should be at the new distance with no pressure on them.

If one side needs to move more than the other side to begin with, you can pull that side more than the other one to make the lid fit correctly. So if you need to move a total of 5/8 inch, and the left side needs to move more, you can pull that side 3/8" and the other side 1/4" to get the correct fit.

[idrivejunk]

I found a pic that gives me the idea Ts are constructed similarly to Bs out in back. Since you only need 5/8ths total and you are way out there at the rear tip of the body... Hmm. First I'd reach for a friction jack and try my luck with it pulling in evenly. If one side moves first, scratch that idea. Next idea is to use two sticks of thick wall tubing or maybe 2x4s and clamp or screw / bolt each to a quarter somewhere / somehow near the rear where it connects, with the fore end of the pipes able to reach the vertical braces and the rear hanging way out back like wheelbarrow handles. If the body is fixed to a jig or rack of some sort, some independent movement may be possible but I envision just pulling the wheelbarrow handles together and remeasuring a lot. Y'know, put gut against one pipe and pull on the other, or stand between them and pull both in. Depends how much force is required. Massaging key spots under tension as Frank said may help it stay.

Not sure if I have made sense. Don't over think it. If you're able to set up my "handles" for leverage and have some sort of pulling setup with good stationary objects to pull against, you could hold the body / floor still and pull the outer end of one handle at a time inward pulling from across the car. Honestly I'd set up the handle things and try to muscle it. If I couldn't get 5/8" to stay I'd get big boy from across the shop and we'd double team it. Nothing fancy just throw some grunt at it and recheck a lot. If you go too far I bet the car will take it right back.

I would expect to possibly have to deal with a little dent or buckle somewhere, of course. After welding.

[kb426]

This afternoon I removed the dash from the 92 F150 that is the drivetrain donor for my next project. The rest of the wiring has been removed and the pedal assembly. I pulled the steering column but it had been broken by someone who was trying to bypass the key switch. I pulled the throttle pedal and hood latch also. It's donating the engine and trans, driveshaft, fuel system, wiring harness, pedals, all the efi components. This is a speed density eec iv system. This was a high mileage truck that there is no known history of. I don't know if the engine had been replaced or not. It ran and didn't smoke profusely so I took a gamble on it.

[idrivejunk]

Maverick :?:  

A little sunshine goes a long way. Started the day with cold and snow on the ground and mentally justifying procrastinations. Sun came out, brand new man      :!:

So I went up to Horrid Fright as they were packing up the sidewalk sale, to replace my welding helmet. Got the same blue flame design one. Last one went 6 years and just the strap turned up broken after last weekend. Mysterious, huh? I made the week with it taped. Got new gloves too, burnt the thread outta the old grinding patches. Also did DD stuff, oil n filter change, top off everything that leaks, checked lugs and air on the new to me rolling stock, and went for bonus points by swapping the headrest off my ex 02 GP driver seat onto the 99's. Piece of cake. Using a seatbelt adjuster all week sucked but now I'm back where I was on that.

I sent a request for a shipping price estimate to Fastenal yesterday. Should hear something by mid-week.

[chimp koose]

I am going to re install the lower body cross member ( riveted ) . That is the one at the bottom of the car at the back , the framework that the body attaches to . That measurement is correct as I was the first person to ever remove it . Also  my repair panel actually fits properly down there . The spread on the body is even side to side as the diagonal measurements of the trunk opening are within 1/16" over 44" . This car has not had a trunk lid or the panel below it on the car for most of its life . I repaired a dent (crease ) in the drivers side quarter panel that went from the very back of the car at a height just above the fender to the front of the fender well . That one was pressed out with a porta power with wooden patterns cut to fit the fender well inside and out bolted together and a wood pattern above the inner fender well to press on . When we reached the right contour it was lightly hammered along the length of the old crease and stayed in the proper position when the porta power was released .I verified its shape with a contour gage from side to side comparison on the car . It did not change the shape of the trunk opening . I can clamp and bolt the body to the chassis before pulling it in to avoid twisting something else out of shape . I have already welded in a repair panel about 4" high on the drivers side the full length from rear of door to back of car and a wheel well patch the same height in some of the pass side . The body appears to have no twist . As I understand it the best option is to pull one side at a time and lightly hammer with a wooden hammer along the quarter panel from the wheel well up to the back of the roof , release pressure and see if it stays . Then repeat with other side when first side is done ? I can likely fashion some sort of clamp to use in the drain channel and use a turnbuckle diagonally off the frame or maybe I would be better to pull in a direction straight across to the center of the trunk opening ? Thanks for the replies !

[chimp koose]

IDJ I may try your wheelbarrow handle idea first before going to a turnbuckle as it would be easy to try . I have a feeling this car was intentionally spread apart to fit a wooden box , making it into a truck as that was often done in this part of the country . I would bet it was spread in the same fashion IDJ recommends to repair it , as that would be what was available "on the farm" back in the time when this would have been done .

[idrivejunk]

I didn't know if your gutter was still there but yeah thats where I'd hope to connect to the end of the panel. The handles could be angled upward and use the strong front corners of the opening rather than the upright brace, as a fulcrum. Or you could tip downward and go to the base of the upright with the tip of the handles. Or anywhere in between, along the upright, as long the required force is less than the strength of the upright. Heck you could place a vertical 2x4 at the base of the upright and the other end in the front corner of the gutter, and pry against it anywhere because it would spread the load. I suspicion that might be best (IF using this approach) because the quarters will probably "want" to be moved at a certain angle to stay level. It would be quick and easy if its enough. Good theory about bed-spread. Maybe done with a tractor! Makes sense because we all know... wider is better  

[bucketmouth]

After 30yrs I've replaced the old 20mph tractor lights for some modern H4 lights.No more relying on street lights to get me home in the dark



Its the only major change I've made to the bucket since its been on the road.

[sirstude]

Spent the weekend on the Olds.  Built a primer out of an old distributor and went to work.  Could not get it to pick up prime or get any pressure.  Pulled the pan and pump.  Filled the pump with grease and put it all back together.  Now I have oil pressure.  Need to set the valves and get the back end up off the hoist a bit.  Then finally hope to hear it run.  I have been building on this beast since 1995.  Think I rebuilt the 454 about 10 years ago.  Sure will be nice to be able to drive it on and off the hoist instead of getting half a dozen guys over to push.