What are you doing today?

Started by enjenjo, April 23, 2010, 04:57:12 PM

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Carps

Quote from: "Boyd Who"Now that I have a shop I should dig out some of my old kits and build some of them. I haven't built a model in almost 25 years, but I have a number of unopened kits sitting in storage.
Hi Al, I'd strongly recommend you do that, it's great therapy.

Here's the interior for the Chevy.






Carnut, one of the great things about modelling is that anything is possible and changing tops is a no brainer in plastic.  :D  Haven't seen that pic before so can't say it influenced this model, but it may very likely influence a future build.  ;)  Thanx

PS - Glue is much less expensive that nuts and bolts.
Carps

Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, today is a gift.

tom36

Fabbed a panel to go below the Kaiser instrument cluster to hold the switches.  Switches and are 56 Ford Pick up.  Tom...

UGLY OLDS

That's neat ^^^^^^^^^^^    I like it  :!:  8)


Bob.... :wink:
1940 Oldsmobile- The "Ugly Olds"
1931 Ford sedan- Retirement project

***** First Member of Team Smart*****

Arnold

Quote from: "UGLY OLDS"I am going to find the closest TSC to me ....$2.00 & $3.00 each for bolts at Ace ain't  makin' it anymore .... :(  

Thank You for the info ..... :D


Bob....... :wink:

 Speaking of TSC..their insulated work coveralls..maybe/probably their house brand  (I am guessing) I think they are "Work Horse/Iron Horse" or something. They have a little train logo in them. These are dirt cheap in Canada(Ontario anyway) about $49 when on sale. Regular I think about $69.  Forget the price(If you can) I have had a lot of insulated coveralls over the years!! They run about $160-$200 up here. The TSC ones are seriously heavy(fabric too) ! and warm. No kidding.Maybe too heavy. Nothing compares to them. If you have to work..or want to..outside in the cold. Buy a pair. Drawback: Flat out zero breathability. You want warm,heavy,buy them. You want breathability,not heavy..not for cold weather. Leave these to me haha.

enjenjo

After a week above freezing, most of the snow is gone. I can get in the barn again, the drifts around it have melted.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

kb426

I went to Wichita and picked up the 650 Yamaha for the cafe racer project. Shouldn't be too long before I start a build thread. I want to make sure it runs before the disassembly. I want to know what all needs attention.
TEAM SMART

Crosley.In.AZ

pulled some muscles in left lower back again.. same deal I did in january.  Must be gettin worse with age?

Hard to believe the pain from it.... but it is something I have dealt with for decades
Tony

 Plutophobia (Fear of money)

chimp koose

tom36 that dash is cool! I was thinking of something similar for my modelT . I have the dash insert and gages from my last 65 ford truck that I would like use. Its nice to see yours as it lets me know what  mine may look like when done.

bucketmouth

Bit of a sad day today I sold my 34 sdn that I had for many years. I used it as my daily driver but something had to give with 5 vehicles in the garage the constant maintence was taking up too much of my time. The 34s gone my roadster p/up project is gone so that gives me a bit of working space.

I'm gonna finally start the RHD conversion on my 34 coupe and then hopefully start on my 30 roadster project that I've been wanting to do for sometime.
So it's not all bad.
I maybe from down under but I know which way is up.
Oh hell there goes another head rush.

chimp koose

did some machine work today, My head milling fixture works well, took .030 off a set of 291 casting heads for the anglia engine.

Danimal

Eli and I went to Autorama. Court is catching up on his math for college so he decided to stay home and study. He just had an exam and did pretty well so he wanted to focus on that. I can't blame hm and am actually pretty proud he made that choice.

enjenjo

Quote from: "Danimal"Eli and I went to Autorama. Court is catching up on his math for college so he decided to stay home and study. He just had an exam and did pretty well so he wanted to focus on that. I can't blame hm and am actually pretty proud he made that choice.

I was there too, all day long. I got home about an hour ago.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

Danimal

Quote from: "enjenjo"
Quote from: "Danimal"Eli and I went to Autorama. Court is catching up on his math for college so he decided to stay home and study. He just had an exam and did pretty well so he wanted to focus on that. I can't blame hm and am actually pretty proud he made that choice.

I was there too, all day long. I got home about an hour ago.

Obviously, we didn't see you or we would have said "Hi!"

Crosley.In.AZ

Couple weeks ago... the base board in the dinner table area... pulled away slightly from the wall.  A section about 8 inches long just barely pulled away.  Never hit my  brain at that time what the problem was.

Tonite it dawned on me... it is wet.  Both bath room showers are on the opposite side of the wall

I am gonna see if I can find a bore scope with a lite and look through the wall  to locate which shower is leaking so I only cut into the area I need to tear up and repair
Tony

 Plutophobia (Fear of money)

wayne petty

spent saturday unplugging and plugging the water heater back in...

seems it does not restart without repowering..

its a 80 gallon commercial with a power damper on the top..

the power damper gets a signal for heat and starts to open the damper.. when the damper opens 90 degrees.. it closes another pair of switches that continues the signal for heat back to the control board to start the ignition process..

the plastic cam wears slightly.. but when i took it apart.. and used my DMM on the switch in beeper mode.. i got a raspy tone from it.. instead of a nice clean tone..

just for your information.. most of the power dampers have a hold open switch.. that is supposed to bypass the circuits.. and keep the damper open all the time..  for some reason.. this function did not help with the water heater.. so i figured out which were the 24V AC power wires.. and jumped the other 2...  this allowed call for heat signals to go direct...  

oh.. i also removed the power damper..   from what i read.. it reduces the rating by only about 5%...   i noticed the price on this model water heater was 3600 bucks new..    no small change..   the previous version was almost as expensive..  but the plumbers were not in the diagnostic mode.. they were in the replace mode...  so instead of fixing a commercial water heater. they just replaced it..    most commercial water heaters that are not leaking..  and less than about 10 years are worth fixing..

i know that many of you are going to be installing new water heaters in the next decade... some will come with power flue dampers... knowing how they work.. and how they fail... can save hundreds if not thousands..  when reading up on these power dampers.. some HVAC companies quote 800 to 1200 bucks for a replacement..   this is a 250 buck part..  and won't tell you that it will work without it..  took me about 3 minutes to remove it..   after figuring out how to bypass it.. as i have not done commercial plumbing for 25 years..

here is the 4 page PDF file for this type.. they all work in a similar fashion...

http://www.effikal.com/rvgpksf_manual.pdf

there were also a few models other than this.. that were recalled as they failed to open do to broken parts.. leaving the damper closed as it called for flame...   not a good thing...


don't forget to hook up a garden hose to the drain once a year.. and let it empty any crud from the bottom of the tank....   i normally swap the drain valve.. for a boiler drain valve that has the high heat seals... and hook up the hose when i need to wash something.. with hot water...  why waste the water... and who wants to wash in ice cold water...



MUELLER GLOBAL 1/2 in. Brass Male Threaded Boiler Drain Valve to drain water from a boiler and also to release any sediment that may have accumulated.    5 bucks at HD...