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Turns out that it is a Corvair front end with Chevelle spindles and brakes and a Pinto rack and pinion.



Was installed well enough but is definitely too wide. So it will be coming out and TCI MII is going in.



The 327 is coming out and will be sold. The engine was built with 11.5  compression pistons and does not have hardened valve seats.



It also has a 327-365 HP cam and it just doesn't run that well on unleaded fuel.



Got a good deal on a new 350 crate engine to replace it.  ($1800)

Went and did the deal on this 36 Ford humpback 2 door sedan today.
The guy I bought it from has owned it for 30 years.

It's a 70s style build with a 327 and Turbo 400. The drivetrain has next to nothing for miles on it after a rebuild not too long ago.

It has some sort of Ford rear end, I'll have to ID it but at first glance it may be a bit wide for the car.

It has an independant front end, I'm guessing it is a Corvair or maybe even Pacer ? It has a front mount rack so I'm not sure there either.

The front end is also too wide for the car from the look of things so one update will see a TCI Mustang II go in. It has a GM tilt coulmn.

The paint is 28 years old but in decent enough shape. The interior is done with an old style with velour inserts but is serviceable for now.

The body is great, it's never been rusty as it was a nice original car to start.

I got the hood sides as well as the trim strips for them too.

Plans call for the MII and lowering in the rear and new rolling stock in the form of WV smoothies with 41 caps and trim rings.
Oh yes, and removal of the tunnel ram intake.

Later on will be new paint and interior down the road. In the meantime I'll update the suspension and rolling stock and drive it .

How about donkey ? Wonder if the nanny likes that ?

Has anyone looked at the Factory Five "33 Hot Rod"?  Looks like a well engineered piece, it's gotten some good press, but I'm wondering if anyone thinks it's more kit car than street rod?  It'd be cool to own a street rod that turns corners like a sports car, but I remember all the fallout from the Street Beast debacle and how part of the issue was a body that had no interchange with the car it supposedly mimicked.

I watched the 2 guys garage show where they did a feature where they (The 2 guys) supposedly "built" a factory five hot rod 33.

I was put off by the term "build" they didn't "build " any damned thing at all. What the did was assemble a kit car, a full sized model kit essentially that was delivered in huge boxes.

The idea is unique and Factory Five has taken it to the ultimate level of engineering but it is a kit car in every sense of the term.

It is nothing like a 33 street rod or hot rod except by a sort of family resemblance.
Just barely mind you.

It could be a neat driver, fast and handle like a slot car, but a traditional hot rod ? Far from it.

I think it would be a stretch to have one well accepted at say the NSRA events or the like. I could be wrong

I like what you've done there.   Looks like split wishbones but it's really a triangulated four link.  Your brackets are sturdy and do a nice job of hiding the fact that it's articulated, necessary to keep your four link from binding.

Thanks, it took a little thought to come up with the design. I actually built another style setup first and didn't like it so it was scrapped and I started over.

I wanted the rear lower links to look like wishbones and mount outside the frame rails to mimic the wishbones I fabricated for the front.

I also wanted the suspension to work properly too in the articulation with the coil overs for a decent ride.

I like what you're doing. What is the rest of the suspension going to be?

I've built a sort of triangulated 4 bar style rear suspension. The rear wishbones form the bottom links and as you can see the top bars mount off the top of the 8" maverick rear.

All bushings are urethane. I have TCI All American coil overs for the rear.

Wow thats quite a bit of work but well worth the effort.The 32 styled rails will add to a bit of a" smoothy" look to the car as will the front crossmember and the A rad shell. hood? or no. With tri-power Y block ,exposed engine will be an attention getter.

I may build a hood eventually. So far maybe just a hood top if I want to run in the rain.

It will be fenderless however so not too much of that unless I'm caught out in it  

I will be building lakes style headers routed to undercar exhaust as well.

If anyone is interested here is roughly where she sits today.

Coming along going to have the engine built this winter ( 57-312 Y block), C4 transmission next week.

Going to fab a 3' pickup bed soon.

Using a narrowed dodge minivan seat.

Larry

[I am leaning towards going through the untouched 292 I have that was pulled from a wrecked car over 40 years ago,the seller is wanting 900 for it complete]

900 bucks for a complete rebuilt 292 with speed goodies ?

Sounds like a steal to me.

I am leaning towards going through the untouched 292 I have that was pulled from a wrecked car over 40 years ago,the seller is wanting 900 for it complete

Now that does not sound like a complete rebuilt 292 with speed goodies to me.  

I would take a serious look at the new Miller Diversion machines if I were you.

I am a Welding Instructor and have been a pressure piping and vessel welder all my life.

I recently bought a Diversion 165 for my garage and I just love it. I bought a foot pedal for it.

It has high frequency start and will also do aluminum by switching to AC.

With an AC Inverter you can weld aluminum with a sharpened Ceriated tungsten.

I am really impressed with the machine, it welds beautifully.

How much you looking to spend ? I really like this 37 Coupe. It's in Atlanta. And it's kinda red

http://www.streetsideclassics.com/showcar.php/atl/340/1937-Ford-Coupe

Removing valve covers might be a chore !

Those are properly done TIG welds. A TIG weld done right is solid and smooth with clean straight edges and a very tight ripple pattern.

I know, being a pressure vessel and pressure piping TIG welder.

The popular stack of dimes type TIG weld is very far from ideal and is less than strong as it leads to stress risers (notch effect) along the edges of the weld where the edge is scalloped due to the widely spaced circular ripples.

That style of TIG weld (stack of dimes) is visually appealing and that's about it.

And those welds were not done with spray transfer either.

There is a guy who did a fuel injection on a Ford smallblock stroker 347 I believe it is.

He used Weber throttle bodies and a megasquirt computer.

The car he built is a locost  lotus seven style adaptation that he totally scratch built.

The build journal is posted here and is really impressive, true hot rodding all the way building one of these cars.

Lots of info to wade through, but I found it entertaining.

http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=1586

Here's a cold start of the EFI equipped car

&feature=related

And a picture too, I want to build one !!!

How about some details on the reveal in the frame? Like how you did it.

The rerveal was done by printing off a full sized template for the 32 frame  



Then I traced the pattern of the reveal on the tubing and cut it with a zip blade for the straight section and a metal blade on the jigsaw for the curved section.

The side is then pressed in with a piece of square tubing and big c -clamps. Once the sides are squeezed down a little more than 1/4" then you can pound down the bottom lip to meet it.

I used a piece of 1/2" x2 flat bar ground smooth for doing this along with a 6 pound hammer.  

Just work along the rail a little at a time and having the rail clamped to the table helps too.  The bottom lip is stubborn to fold in, but it can be done.

A little heat was needed to form the rounded lip where the reveal curves up the frame rail and at the rear of the reveal as well as the 1/8" wall just wants to collapse without it.

After that a little welding to close the seam and some grinding.

The rails will be curved the wrong way after that as the welding on one side pulls the rail.

A few slices with a zip blade and re-welding brings them back into line.

Quite a bit of work, but I think they look nice.