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Total Performance in Connecticut had the pinion mounted parking brake kits.  Don't have a number offhand.  Wallingford CT if I remember correctly.

works great on oil pans.  I aways put on pans this way if the motor is in the car.

What the devil is this - tried to reply to a post

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Thanks!

Those 20 inch wheel suck.

There is some stuff called Lab Metal that you can use to fill the holes.  Eastwood carries it.

I don't have the car any more, sold it a long time ago.  I did have a slip joint out of a steering column and it was not unsafe. Sorry I can't show you the installation, but here the car.  Car was originally built in 1970's. I certainly wouldn't run an unsafe car with the little guy in the back

For all you guys that say this type of steering is bogus, NG or whatever, your all wrong.  I had a rack, mounted to a tube axle, on a steel Model A roadster with a Boss 302 Ford, 4 speed and 9 inch.  This car handled with the best of them.  Many long milage, high speed trips with this car and NEVER had a problem with the front end.  No wiggle, wobble or anything.  I ran this car ten years. Ran straight as an arrow.  Can't find enough words to tell how great it was.

41 dash is direct replacement, no mods required..  Much nicer looking in my opinion.  I got one in my 48, but have digital gauges in the stock opening

I have a 47 Ford coupe that has TPI tech gauges , the quad gauge for volt, fuel, temp, oil is in the original clock hole on pass. side of dash & I can't read it while driving. I am not in love with the fugly dash anyway & am considering changing it & killing 2 birds w/1 stone. I know Direct & * make replacements but I am a cheapo &  am wondering if there is a stock dash I could make fit that would put both gauges in front of driver. Any suggestions?? THANKS

I have a Chassis Engineering set up on my 48 Ford.  It was a bolt in.  The springs I got from them (supposedly the Dodge truck ones) ride very good - not mushy or too stiff.  The only thing about this kit was that it left the rear of the car kind of high and I had to use lowering blocks to get it down.  This was done about 25 years ago - maybe the kit has been changed so the rear will ride lower.

I just got back from the NSRA show in Burlington, VT. Had a great time. I've been there 11 out of the 13 years. On the drive, I finally grew tired enough of my rear suspension to start looking for a replacement. I used a kit from Butch's Rod shop that Fat Man recommended. The kit used the stock rear springs. It rides very rough, seems to bottom out a lot, and I had to cob the CE sway bear to get it to fit in.

I'm thinking of the three options mentioned in the title. I'd prefer something bolt-in. I can take out the tank if I do have to weld anything. I've heard that Dodge caravan springs will work, but have never seen pics or a description of how to use them. I fabricated the trailing arm and coil spring mounts I'm using in my '48, so I'm sure I can handle it, but some help from someone who has done it would be nice. If I make me own setup I'm not sure how to find the right place to mount the springs so the rear is centered.

Also considering looking for a dsic brake rear. I think some Lincoln rears are about the same width as the ranada I have in there.

Any ideas?