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perhaps dynomat?   can be mail ordered or bought off ebay... stereo shops also sell it.

Checking out my F100's steering (because it keeps eating Rag Joints), I found the main problem. Cab mount on the drivers side is completely rotten and has allowed the Cab to drop about 3/4". The way Ford designed the interface between the steering Column and Rag Joint, there is no allowance for mis-alignment and thats why the Rag Joints keep shredding.

I really can't see why the mount rotted so badly anyway. There is no rust anywhere else under the truck, and the weep-hole in the mount was not clogged up with anything. Must have just been a junky piece of steel...

when you say the cab mount is rotten, are you talking about the steel, or the rubber cushion?

Robert

It's been a long time, but the ones we had with hydraulic brakes, you filled through the boot.

thank you for the confirmation, that was what i thought from looking at the set up, just wanted a " yep thats the ticket"...\\
Robert

ok, stupid question, but i gotta ask, how do you fill / check the brake, and clutch fluid on these trucks?

I have found the master cylinders under the dash, but cant seem to locate a fluid resivor any where. the cylinders are mounted vetically, with a hose out the bottom, and a rod out the top, going to the pedal. there is a "boot" on the top of the cylinder, that has a tab on it, but it looks like it would be extremely incovient to fill the fluid thru there...

anyhow, i am stumped.

Robert

Robert, I received a refund last year. Wonder if the news ones are better, or not? Hate to see the car go up in flames on some lonely road.

news flash... NAPA guy standing over my shoulder watching this typing...

Regulators are being recalled, and there is no replacements availbe at this time...

they have had several leak, and this is a national recall.

Robert

Yes, I put one on last summer/fall; got it at NAPA, I think it was Mr. Gasket brand. I've seen the same style under different names, but it was the same. I was driving down the road, and smelled gas, pulled over, and it was dumping gas. I took it back, and they wanted to give me another, but I declined. Still don't have one on there.

acorrding to my local napa store, there is a recall on the pressure regulator, if you bring it back they will swap you with a new one.

robert

You have a shorted park switch in there. The motor runs until the park switch turns off the power.

ok... i went out and pulled the park switch off the unit, and seperated the contacts, the motor still runs, if the wiper arms are connected... what am i missing?

put  a new motor in ( the old one froze up), and the motor runs continiously, until you disconnect the wiper arms from the motor shaft. At this point the unit parks and all functions work (off, slow, fast), but * soon as the wiper arms are connected, the motor does not stop, and has slow(in the slow and off positions) and high speed. i measured the voltage on the motor shaft, and there is +12v between the motor shaft and the body.   defective unit (motor)? . I did disconnect the wiper switch, but it made no diiference. Ideas?

Robert

Harbor FREIGHT opened a new store hereabouts and had a promo on car dollies 4000 pound cap. for $40/pair. Bought two sets and tried them yesterday with my VW bus.  Hah! The only way I could move the rig was swinging the front or rear to the side. Straight back or to the side was no go. Did I get cheapies or is this standard for this type of gizmo? Are steroids required? Think I got hosed.

thought i was the only weakling here... i bought the same set wth the same reults (with a 50' F1) on them. maybe i will try greasing them....

Robert

pulled the batteries out, and cleaned the terminals, and she fired right up.

Have you checked the starter solenoid?  Ford's were good for going bad.  One way to check is to short a screwdriver from the battery terminal to the next small terminal; if it starts that way, the solenoid's bad.

so far i have found a black/white corrosion around the batterry terminals, will check the selenoid... thank you

Did you check the condition of the battery/battery's?
If they load test OK,then I would be checking ALL the battery cable connections..........

i haven't checked them yet, i have had a "trickle charger" ( the one on th truck) plugged in since i got it home. the wiring is a jumble of wires, right above the batteries ( it has 2 commercial type batteries) is 7 selenoids, and 2 selenoids on the passenger side, i have found so far...

robert

started cleaning up the fire truck, she started and ran so good... so i decided to start cleaning under the cab and the frame on the drivers side, so using the pressure washer, i sprayed and blew off years of accummulated grease and dirt, and oh how it looks so clean and petty ( The frame is acutally gloss red and looks good), but now the batterys dont seem to charge.... the batterys are located on the passnger side about 6' behind the cab. the altenator, and starter are located on the passenger side, and i did not get hem wet. hooked jump box directly to the battery, and nothing but clicks from starter, hooked jump box directly to starter, and the truck starts right up. ammeter shows 30 amp charge rate at idle (90 amp altenator) i let it run for about an hour, still charging, shut it off, and went to restart it. nothing but clicks.

Ideas of what i have done, or where to start trouble shooting?

Robert

Hey Robert....ALL RIGHT!! That is so kewl. I used to work on grain trucks like that when I was in high school. Tilt cabs are great. I think they had a 330 in 'em. Can I have a ride when you get it going?

yeoman'

it has a manly  534, it seems to run good, has a leaky water pump, and suprisenly, my local napa dealer has it. and they dont even want a left test... for it

Robert

 got a new ride, ideas of what to do now....


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=6729&item=2471507731&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWN%3AIT

1. Always wanted one.
2. Single, no one to tell me "no".
3. Thought it looked cool.


Robert