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I ordered an alan grove ps brkt for my 425 nailhead earlier today. It uses the cavalier style PS pump with the remote resevoir. Is there any significant pressure on this res.? Can I make my own res. or use something I found? Should I get one from a place like Parr or summit?
Thanks

I found a kink in one of my cooler lines this weekend. I guess that's what caused it to start to go away. What kind of improvements can my mech. do to it to boost the perfomance and reliability? I know it'll get a trans-go shift kit, but, other than that, Idon't know. Thanks again, J

My Merc is sitting at Salado, TX right this very minute waiting for a friend and I to go rescue it. That tranny kept slipping in and out of gear on the way to Flyrite's. I managed to limp it back to the motel that afternoon and up to Salado the next morning. I'm debating about putting a 200r4 in it. The Merc is way heavy and I was wondering if the tranny could handle the torque that the 425 will put out. What's the pros and cons of that tranny? Should I just rebuild the SP400 that's in it? I really like the idea of a 4th gear. Gimmie some ideas as to what I'm in for on the swap. I know I'm in for a wallet beating with the Bendtsen's adapters and a good rebuild on a 200r4, but, what else?

I am running a camaro rear end with 15X7 rims on the back of my Merc. I tried to run 225/75/15's. The outside of the tire rubs just a hair on the backside of the fender. I have pounded the upper fender lip out as close to straight as possible. I pulled a 195 65 15 rally rim off my dad's 37 Chev. It cleared the spot where the other tire rubbed but was still really close. Looking up from the bottom, if it went low enough, it would rub. Should I try to run a 205 75 15 or am I going to need a rim with more of a negative offset? I am getting a 205 put on my rim this afternoon and will try it. I really don't think it will help. Does anybody know a steel wheel that will fit the bolt pattern and have a slight neg offset? I have about a week to get this thing back on the road.

I really wanting to add a 4-link and bags to the rear of my 51 Merc. Can anybody give me either the basic or detailed reference points so I can get an idea as to how much work this entails? thanks

I've been driving my 51 Merc daily for a few days while my wife is off work. This thing beats me to death every day. It rides so bad I don't want to drive anymore. I have a MII frame stub up front and a Buick 425 nailhead. out back I have a camaro rear hung on stock springs with 2 or 3 leafs removed. I know that the rear rides rough because I have about 2'" of travel. That will be cured with a 4-link and bags this winter. I also have 3" WWW bias plys all the way around. When I installed the stub, I had to cut about 2 coils off the springs to get them to fit. I was thinking about junking the bias tires and moving to a radial to see if that helped. Did I shoot myself in the foot by cutting the front springs? Should I have a new set of springs made? Would lowering springs for a mustang work? Should I just suck it up and buy a kidney belt? I'm really just fishing for ideas here.

I'm still relatively new to this board, so, I'm assuming that you're the goto guy for trannys. I have a 93 caprice wagon with the 4l60e. I did some digging and discovered that impending system failure is indicated by a hard 1-2 shift. I've had this shift for about a year. I finally took it to my mechanic. He changed the filter, pan gasket, vehicle speed sensor and the associated o-ring. As expected, I shelled the tranny after about 2 weeks. I have a 1-2 shift but it goes into neutral on the way to 3rd. His new tech is a GM tranny specialist. How much should a rebuild cost? I know every shop is different, but, a good round number will do. Also, can you recommend a good performance shift kit that will handle a few extra HP and not puke after a few thousand miles? Sorry for the long post but I'm not used to dealing with this new fangled stuff.

Afternoon fellas, I rebuilt the PS pump on my '66 425 Buick last month. It's the old stlye round can and pump with alarge cap on top. I closely followed the instructions that came with the o-ring kit (that's about the only parts needed for a rebuild). I packed the vanes of the pump with chassis grease on the recommendation of a mechanic friend. When I reassembled the pump, I bled the pump and rack like I did on some of my other cars (wheels up, motor runnung, steering from left to right slowly). The pump still howls and moans like the fluid level is low. The level is right where it needs to be. What did I do wrong? Did I overlook something? What pointers cn ya'l give me. Thanks.

I really think I'm going to need a Vac. pump and resivoir for my power brake setup. I'm going to try it with manifold vac first. If I use a vac. pump, does it hook directly to the booster or should I run it to a resivoir first? Any good suggestions on mounting locations? I'm thinking closer to the booster the better. Am I right?

Is there a way to test which lb. setting the RPV's are? I'm thinking that my ECI units might be reversed. I had a problem with the back dragging and heating, now I have the same problem with the fronts.

What  did these come in? I'd like to find one outside of master power brakes for two reasons. 1) I can't really afford their stuff and 2) what if it goes out on the road? Do I call MP and have them ship one, I think not!  I'd also like to find a dual diaphram 7" booster to try. I've managed to track down a M/C but can't find a booster. Thanks.

New guy reporting for duty. I'm a regular on the HAMB (JK) and decided to join over here also. A little less drama over here. Also, I can view this from work. I'm in the final stages of getting my 425 nailhead powered 1951 Merc back on the road after taking the backseat to other projects for a few years. I'm married and just brought my new daughter home yesterday, 11/11/04. I've been into hot rods my entire life, and built quite a few decent customs, no hot rods or street rods yet. My Merc has a MII front clip with a power rack. I intend on using the buick PS pump. Do I really need to use a pressure reduction valve or can I run it for a while without it? Is there a way to modify the pressure spring in the pump to put out less pressure? Can I just fill the rack and pump and take the belt off and go without PS for now? Sorry for so many questions right off the bat, but, I need to figure these things out. Thanks.