Model A job

Started by idrivejunk, July 25, 2018, 08:54:51 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic.

idrivejunk

Like so. I was just going to drill holes in the front of the brackets and float a nut in there flush and tack.



Since the pic dump was open...

Lest ye forget what warm and cool looks like... (bonus, shameless Pontiac injection) 8)  :lol:  :arrow:

Matt

jaybee

Now that's the way to watch the Sun go down...
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength. Eric Hoffer  (1902 - 1983)

enjenjo

On that 46 that I did I had nearly the same situation with the brackets lining up with the running board mounts. I bent the mounts to line up with the brackets on the running board, then shimmed them to set the height. That way there are no squeaks or rattles on down the line.

Boeshield is a spray wax that doesn't dissolve in water, and stays where you put it.

Here is another thought, spray the bottom of the boards with bed liner. No rust then, and no star chips in the board either.

You be you, there is more than one way to do it right.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

idrivejunk

Sunset was about that good again tonight. Durn near got dry gulched by a pair of deer though.

Frank how does the stuff differ from cavity wax AKA internal panel coating?

Friday I did no measuring to center the brackets under the mounts, but did use fingers to set them as close to that as I "felt" would be sufficiently accurate. After brackets were tweaked and bolted I ran a Sharpie along one bracket's sides, marking underside of board. Then I looked and realized that the bracket was fine as far as square to board and frame but the mount was all skewy on the board. I could drill them off, or compensate. It just seems to me the less poopy looking way with smooth bottom brackets. We will be us, and as usual I will run it through the Mike filter. My first thought was actually to cut a long wedge off the bottom of the bracket tubing so its mostly one layer out under the board.
Matt

idrivejunk

Oh... and under the board... I'd bet a heavier application of rock guard spray but otherwise usual treatment will go there. Plastic or aluminum fender liners :D, or steel partial wheelhouses :roll: have been discussed. I'd like to have fender liners on tabs with push clips. :lol:
Matt

enjenjo

Quote from: "idrivejunk"Sunset was about that good again tonight. Durn near got dry gulched by a pair of deer though.

Frank how does the stuff differ from cavity wax AKA internal panel coating?

Friday I did no measuring to center the brackets under the mounts, but did use fingers to set them as close to that as I "felt" would be sufficiently accurate. After brackets were tweaked and bolted I ran a Sharpie along one bracket's sides, marking underside of board. Then I looked and realized that the bracket was fine as far as square to board and frame but the mount was all skewy on the board. I could drill them off, or compensate. It just seems to me the less poopy looking way with smooth bottom brackets. We will be us, and as usual I will run it through the Mike filter. My first thought was actually to cut a long wedge off the bottom of the bracket tubing so its mostly one layer out under the board.

It really is not much different. It comes in spray cans, and until it sets up it will creep into cracks and crevices. Once it sets up, the solvents evaporate, it stays in place.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

idrivejunk

Yessir. There used to be something called Waxoyl, I think. Just wax and oil in a mist, collecting on everything basically. That type stuff is good strategy.

I have the angle strips made and marked for holes and outside corner trimming, nuts are tacked. They are on top of the brackets instead of on front. I showed Mike three ideas and his main concern was speed so I did that. They will be welded better when apart.



Matt

idrivejunk









I'll close the end like that on the other three also. Didn't get a pic of that end with the bracket installed. This right front one, I took off to complete welding of the 2" extension so I closed the end while it was off.

Heres the passenger side, front tire's eye view, and I threw the bay door open a ways for light to do it justice. I'm happy with 'em. Plug weld holes are on the top flange, these tacks are just tacks, and top mounts on the rear brackets are not welded only tacked... but I already started on the drip rails, marking them to split them each down the middle for a tuckaroo.





A peek at nuts welded better on the bracket I had off. I could put little gussets but don't percieve a need. Boards and brackets aren't fighting each other so I anticipate no great flexing and fatiguing issues with the body bolted directly to the TCI chassis.



I got "on-board" at the last minute. At well under 200 lbs I am not much of a test but this is that, and it felt as sturdy as any I reckon.

Matt

idrivejunk





Drip rails came with the down bend at rear already made. Watch me tuck them.  :arrow:



Right side of the cardboard is a template you hold straight out flat, from the drip rail recess.

Curvature was a good enough match side to side, verified by flipping the template over.

One side, I bumped halves with jaws to curve them. The other side, I just put over a knee to bend.

Scoring and cutting right down the middle of them was touchy though  :roll:



This illustrates the tuck... overlap and tack. :idea:  The blurry nut is a spacer when clamping to tack, and a gauge to slide down through the rail after welding. Just running the right screwdriver down it corrects the gap if it gets too smushed together.









Beveled the front tip-



Other side only lacks grinding-

Matt

34ford

Talked to a guy a while back building an A and he removed the drip rail and welded studs on the back so it was bolted to the car from the inside and make painting easier.  Just a FYI Nice work on the cars you do.

idrivejunk

Quote from: "34ford"Talked to a guy a while back building an A and he removed the drip rail and welded studs on the back so it was bolted to the car from the inside and make painting easier.  Just a FYI Nice work on the cars you do.

Thank you sir. I do like that idea, a lot. This car has welded permanent structure that would prevent access, otherwise I'd use it. :)
Matt

idrivejunk







That angle strip in the last pic goes 3" forward of the firewall and layers under the cowl at the hood seal bed.

Now doing the fuel filler neck pocket. Origami, anyone? :lol:



Matt

kb426

I like the drip rail idea also. Hope I don't forget that tidbit. :)
TEAM SMART

idrivejunk

So far, so OK.  :)  Only had to split one corner after bending and welding. Working on making the top perimeter a seam sealer bead's distance from the quarter and getting the first bracket attached. The old mock up scrap bracket is still in there. I made it with making the actual pocket alongside it in mind. :wink:  :idea:

I'll have you know I cut that neck hole with a cutoff wheel. Only.





Nothing holding the neck so it is all the way down in the pocket.



My guessed at screw holes gotta move up but the hinge mount face orientation seems good. :)



Here is the driver's-seat-but-with-head-on-backwards view I have been showing. That bracket is for connecting pocket to tubing.



Now move straight down and look more upward at the same spot. Never mind the brown sweat. :lol:



Now, be a mouse perched atop the left tub looking forward. :shock:  :arrow:



I've just gotta move the rear edge closer to the quarter as needed there, and splice in a wedge shaped piece. Decided I wanted that whole inside edge to run along the trunk bead so I cut n bent. Thinking of probably three bracket pieces to sturdily connect the pocket since the flap connects indirectly to the inner structure and not at all to the quarter. So it doesn't bend or show a weld around the fuel door.
Matt

idrivejunk

Woop, almost forgot. Did take one pic at the end of half day Friday. Boy I was smack in the thick of it and had to drop it here-



and whats worse I may not get back to it Monday. Sounds like I will be back on the Pantera which has stalemated with the tech on something. Not sure what. But yeah, yay. :roll:

The gas neck pocket thing is to a point where the mock up bracket can be removed. A sufficient translation of hinge mount holes has been established between the two, and the edges are growing closer to the quarter. The bracket I made alongside the pocket will end up being temporary as the pocket in final position does contact the tubing for attachment and the tank to cabin bulkhead corner filler will provide another attaching point for that. Pattern made for that filler. Additional hinge location fuss is anticipated but as shown, the pocket is marked for the first attempt without the mockup bracket as training wheels. The magnetic latch location is apt to be another adventure altogether, on it's own. But I'm a'gainin' on it. Progress may be dictated by boss warpath level, as needed to speed things the hell up.

As a punctuation mark in case of Pantera emergency and to blatantly push my brand I submit this candid shot of the wiley and elusive GT, my noble mount for a decade and beyond... in it's natural habitat. :lol:  This is the one which I have had ghoulish thoughts about the A/C compressor on lately. Re-thinking that.

Matt