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I had my tailpipes turn down under rear axle on my 40 just like that. The sound reflects off of the pavement into the car. Sound like your driving in a big oil can especially with not enough insulation.
Had the muffler shop redo the exhaust last year and ran both pipes to the back but stopped about 6 inches short with about a 45 angle. You can't see the pipes unless you get down on the ground.
Much quieter ride now.

Nice work

Thanks for the suggestions.
I'll see if there's anything for this at NSRA this weekend.

Finally finished welding the floor in my 40 and sealed the seams with Duraglass. Thinking about rolling on some bed liner before I put down some Dynamat.

Any pros/cons or brands that works best?

We usually park in the in the grass behind the building on high ground incase it floods again.

Here's the rear fender after baking at 2000 deg. in an oven, no oxygen. Before, old paint and some rust on the outside and flaky rust no paint on the back side. It's been sitting on the shelf for a couple of weeks, I need to get primer sealer on it soon.

I didn't take a picture of the before but I can take one of the after and post it maybe tomorrow. Just picture all rusty scale on the backside and some rust and old blue paint on the outside.

Picked up a rear fender at the Springfield swap meet a few weeks ago and asked some coworkers if they recommended a media blaster locally. One guy had a friend that has a powder coating shop and cleanse part, body, frames in a big oven. Bakes off paint, putty rust and all. He took it to him and just got it back. It does a really nice job. His oven is big enough to put a car in. 2000 degrees no oxygen, all they do afterword is power wash it. I think the shop is in Indiana some where.

I'd say its a must for any fat rendered car.

Had the exhaust reworked last week so I could add a Progressive rear sway bar. Made a big difference in the handling. Added rear QA1 single adjustable shocks last year and it helped a little but the rear sway bar did the trick. One of the other guys with a 40 recommended it, don't remember who it was but I appreciate the tip. Wish I would have added it a long time ago.

Where did you get the new Wilwood calipers from?
I need a different set with the brake hose boss in the center of the caliper instead of out the bottom for strut rod clearance on my 40 Tudor.
Summit wants about $165 each for the ones I need. #120-10936

The fitting is a 1/8 pipe already although its a straight fitting. I tried a 90deg but it doesn't clear any better.
Talked to one of the Wilwood guys at Good-Guys PPG last year and he said you might be able to drill and tap the body on the back about in the center of the piston but I don't think there's enough meat in the casting for that. The replacement has a boss casted into it in about the same location.
I've attached a picture of what I have on it now. There's a port at the top and one at the same location on the opposite side for bleeder and brake line. Depending which side you use it on.
Bought this setup off of a friend, rotor, calipers, brackets.
Wilwood guy said its for off road use. Stops fine just remember not to turn too far.

I have Wilwood caliper and ~11 in rotors on the front of mu 40 Tudor with MII suspension. The ones on there now look like Wilwood no. 120-5343  calipers. The brake line comes out at the bottom and if I turn the wheel to far the brake line fitting hits the strut rod. Turn to far and it shears the fitting off.
I contacted Wilwood and they have a set, GM D52 Dual Piston Caliper no. 120-10936, with the brake line fitting comes out the center of the caliper body on the rear. Plenty of clearance then, but.... they are about $178 Wilwood or $164 Summit dollars each, ouch.
Any one know of a GM caliper with the fitting that would clear the strut that didn't cost an arm and a leg each?

Finally found the code 33 MAP sensor problem.
Mechanic at work brought his OBDI Snap-On scanner so I could use it. Problem is you have to have a vin to get it to run. None I tried would work. Finally ran a jumper from ECM to ground on MAP sensor, "like Wayne suggested in the first place" and cleared the codes and started it up, no codes. I was running another ground wire out through the file wall and had to cut some of the zip ties off the wire bundle way up under the dash to add the new wire when I found the old MAP ground cut by a sharp edge on a zip tie.
I'm going to check all my inventory of zip ties and through out any with a sharp edge. You wouldn't think a piece of plastic would cut wire but id did.
Fixed the problem now its snowing so I cant drive it anyway. Bumber.

I used them on the front of my 40. I think they are Russell from Jeg's. No brake problems after 12K. I think if you get all of the air out they will work fine. I always gravity bleed brakes.

Thanks for the recommendation Okiedokie.
Always better to find someone that's used a brand and got good results. I'm going to try the used one from my old shop to make sure I have missed something else before I buy one. Pick it up Friday then put it in the first of the week.


More updates later.