Messages

Larry,

I have a piece left over from my project.  PM me your address and you can have it for shipping costs.

Rick

I-80 was only closed for 3-4 days and is now open.  We will be heading to Des Moines Friday AM from Davenport, IA on I-80.

Have a safe trip.

Wow, what a great weekend!

Good on ya Charlie.  That guy Bob K. is real special when it comes to organizing an event.

I should have paint on mine in mid April so there is a possibility I might get to drive it this year.  Only 25 years in the making.

I was just thinking today I need something for the rear of the roadster. The body to gas tank gap is bigger than id like.. How wide are these things??
Dave

Dave,

Take your car to a body shop and have the rear frame horns raised to close the gap between the tank and the body.

I donate mine to the local high school vocational automotive class.  I've had a couple of students come over to see my project.

Ya gotta pass the torch.

[any body use lead any more??]

any body use lead any more??

I still use lead.  I guess that shows how old I am.

John,

I bought my seal beam adapters for my '39 Chevy from

Headlight Headquarters - Donald Axlerod
35 Timson St.
Lynn, MA 01902

(781) 598-0523

These kits were built after WWII to convert earlier headlights to seal beams and include adjusters similar to the mid 50s cars.  I think they advertise in Hemmings.

PM me if you have any questions.

I think they were $75 - $100

Jack,

If you get close to my area, stop in for a beer or other beverage.

My cell phone is (262) 408-0359.

There are golf carts you can rent on the grounds.

I would like to put cruise control on my '39 Chevy for a couple of reasons.  One, there isn't a lot of extra space between the transmission hump and the brake pedal to move your foot around and secondly, I would like to keep my driver's license.

My transmission is a T-56 Borg Warner (Tremec) so I need the disconnects for both the clutch and brake pedals.

What cruise control do you recommend?

TIA

My neighbor bought a '54 Chevy BelAir 2 door post.  We have been evaluating the rust situation and the floor pans require extensive work.

Does anyone make replacement floorpans and other sheetmetal?

TIA

Ken,

Try McMaster Carr.

Jim,

Thanks for posting the other two photos.  This was my first attemp and I made several rookie mistakes.  It is much easier to build the car than to post photos and less frustrating.

Spent most of the Thanksgiving week end putting my chassis together after powder coating.  The drive train consists of a Chevy ZZ430 clone, T-56 trans and a 9" Ford with 4.11 Trak Loc.  The front suspension is a Chassis Engineering Mustang ll set up with 11" Granada rotors and GM calipers.  The rear suspension is a triangulated 4 bar of my own design with QA1 coil overs and a Deuce Factory stabilizer bar.  It is extremely tight back there forcing me to run the tail pipes underneath the rear axle.

The body was media blasted followed by a light sand blast and a couple of coats of zinc chromate primer.  I was extremely pleased with the body after media blasting.  This is the nicest body I have ever worked on in my 40+ years of playing with cars.  There are several pin holes in each of the rear fender wells which I plan to lead and a couple of patch panels on the pan below the trunk lid.

After the body work is complete, back to the body shop for urethane primer and start the long task of block sanding.  This car will be black so several cycles of priming and blocking are in store.  The body will be mounted to the chassis before the final top coat is applied.

After owning the car for 24 years, I can start to see daylight.  Hopefully, I can drive it next year without interior.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b388/b_inchicago/39_Chevy_Construction_066.jpg

Bob,

On my '39 Chevy, I narrowed a 9" to 56" with the pinion centered.  I am using 235R70 15 tires on 3.75" back spacing and have plenty of clearance.  Your friend's '38 should be similar.

The best bet is to acquire the wheels and tires he wants to run, set them under the car (after removing the current rear end) to get the best look and measure the distance between the wheels.  Have the housing narrowed to fit that dimension.