Chevy starter problems

BFS57 · December 05, 2008, 02:46:10 PM

Hello;
Me again with some ridiculous question. Have you checked the solenoid?
The reason I say this is the Chevy Talk Forum just had this exact problem with a starter and it turned out to be a solenoid!

Bruce

47convert · December 05, 2008, 04:33:25 PM

Yep. Had a new solenoid installed the other day. Today I bought a new flexplate and ttraded my starter in for a new one. I'll try again tomorrow. I've talked to all the local experts and they're shaking their heads. I noticed some marks on the base of the old starter where the shims had dug into the aluminum. I'm sure the bendix was hitting so hard it moved the starter - It broke my (aluminum front strap and bent one of the starter bolts.

Bruce Dorsi · December 06, 2008, 01:20:59 AM

Quote from: 47convertI'm sure the bendix was hitting so hard it moved the starter -quote]

Are you using the correct shouldered bolts to mount the starter? .....I seem to remember that straight-shank cap screws will allow the starter to move. .....I also recall that some starter screws were knurled to keep the clearances close.

Another thing to check is to make sure that the bolts are not bottoming out in their holes before the starter is tight to the block. .....There are specific-length bolts from GM.

To answer one of your earlier questions, according to GM Performance Parts, the 14" (168 tooth) flywheels and flexplates use starters with a nose having the offset bolt holes. ......Starters for the 12-3/4" (153 tooth) flywheels and flexplates use starters with a nose that has the mounting holes in a straight-across pattern.

47convert · December 06, 2008, 02:35:58 AM

Thanx Bruce. I do have the knurled bolts, the 14" ring gear and the angled or offset mounting. That's the thing. I've been doing this stuff since the 60's without ever having a problem and not once requiring a shim in any of these Hot Rods. I think with eveyrthing new I'll probably be OK tomorrow. I started wondering if I had this flexplate in backwards but I don't believe it is. The depressed area in the center butts up against the crank flange right?

wayne petty · December 06, 2008, 12:35:26 PM

one thing... from the sidelines.... on conventional chevy 3510 starters .. there are 2 models... 3510 and 3510M the 3510 has mounting holes holes for the 3/8 " bolts .. the 3510M has slightly larger holes for the 10MM bolts... used on later motors... i take it that you are using the gear reduction starter... an since i have not used one of those on a motor... i have been quiet... but there still may be a problem with the bolt holes...

so see if the bolts fit the holes tightly.. on new housings the knurls usually fit really tight..

wayne

phat rat · December 06, 2008, 03:07:17 PM

See my earlier post. The starter I've been using is the GM/Delco high torque mini

wayne petty · December 06, 2008, 07:32:16 PM

sorry.. i was just pointing out that there are 2 different bolt hole diameters.... using the later starter on an earlier motor will let it move around...

i saw that you were using the delco mini... but i did not know if you were using the gear reduction version from DELCO... or the PM direct drive or the PMGR permanant magnet gear reduction... or even the 5MT version...

since you did not post a part number...as there are so many starters that will fit a chevy...

maybe a moderator will please remove my post...

wayne..

over and out..

47convert · December 06, 2008, 10:47:03 PM

You're probably right Wayne - never thought of that. My bolts are 3/8" with the knurls but they don't fir real tight. I seem to have resolved the problem though with the new flex plate and the rebuilt starter. Thanx. Maybe I'll get some 3/8" bolts turned with a bigger knurl.

wayne petty · December 06, 2008, 11:38:36 PM

the alternator shop may have some of the thin shims tubes/rolls/spacers that were used to make metric alternators fit 3/8" bolts...

the difference is about .018" so the wall thickness would be .009" inches..

too thin for a 3/8" thin wall valve guide from the engine builder.. unless you want to bore the hole .,,,

but you have solved the problem... glad for that...

just trying to help... as a lot of people read our posts...

47convert · December 07, 2008, 12:12:47 AM

Thanx Wayne. I was thinking about this after I read your comments and thought maybe I could turn down the end of a couple of 10MM bolts and re-thead for 3/8 nc.

phat rat · December 07, 2008, 09:14:17 AM

Quote from: "47convert"Thanx Wayne. I was thinking about this after I read your comments and thought maybe I could turn down the end of a couple of 10MM bolts and re-thead for 3/8 nc.

You need to go to a starter rebuilder or a shop that sells the minis and get the correct bolts. Turning down, rethreading, or reknurling old bolts is the long way of trying to accomplish the job.

47convert · December 07, 2008, 02:11:30 PM

I have the correct bolts. The ones with the small knurl at the thread end, like I said in previous posts. My block is drilled and tapped for these 3/8" bolts. Wayne's right though. This starter must be the Metric version. The mounting holes measure .441 in diameter. A 3/8" bolt is, of course .375. A 10mm bolt diameter is .393 which still leaves a lot of room for the starter to move around. A 7/16 bolt is very close and fits real nice at .4375". So I'm going to turn the end down on a 7/16 bolt and rethread it for 3/8" This will locate the starter much more accurately than a stock knurled 3/8" bolt ever could. Thanx Wayne - you are right on the money as usual.

Quote from: "phat rat"
Quote from: "47convert"Thanx Wayne. I was thinking about this after I read your comments and thought maybe I could turn down the end of a couple of 10MM bolts and re-thead for 3/8 nc.

You need to go to a starter rebuilder or a shop that sells the minis and get the correct bolts. Turning down, rethreading, or reknurling old bolts is the long way of trying to accomplish the job.

phat rat · December 07, 2008, 06:17:17 PM

I just went out and measured a Delco mini that I have in stock. The mounting holes measure .397 not the .441 that you have on yours. The knurled area on the correct starter bolts measures .399. You said in your first post about this that the starter is supposed to be GM. Does it have Delco- Remey stamped on the rear of the solenoid housing? If not it's an aftermarket copy. You say you have the correct bolts, that they are knurled on the end. Do you realize that there are different lengths of these also?

enjenjo · December 07, 2008, 06:46:08 PM

Jack, the new Chevy starters are metric, 10mm bolts instead of 3/8". The newer starters are drilled for the metric bolts. GM has been using metric starters for over 10 years now.

Many rebuilt starters have been drilled out to the 10mm size, for whatever reason. Now Mike can go get another starter, which will cost him more, or modify some bolts to use the parts he has. I know what I would do.

47convert · December 07, 2008, 08:57:09 PM

Thanx guys. Appreciate the help. I'm glad this thing is put to bed.