Radiator Hose

[timkins]

I had a problem getting a lower radiator hose to fit between the water pump and radiator outlet so I put a 1 1/2" 90 degree street ell and a 90 degree ell back to back and soldered them together with short pieces of rubber hose for connectors. Does anybody see any problems doing it this way??  The car is a 32 Ford with a 350 Chev with a flowkooler water pump and a Walker Radiator.  Thanks.

[model a vette]

I used soldered connections like that on a swap. The vibration loosened the solder. I'm not sure if it was a poor job of soldering. If I were to do it again I would use JB Weld.
Other opinions may vary!

[enjenjo]

Radiators are soldered aren't they? I've used Copper fittings in the past with no problems.

[DRD57]

I had a problem getting a lower radiator hose to fit between the water pump and radiator outlet so I put a 1 1/2" 90 degree street ell and a 90 degree ell back to back and soldered them together with short pieces of rubber hose for connectors. Does anybody see any problems doing it this way??  The car is a 32 Ford with a 350 Chev with a flowkooler water pump and a Walker Radiator.  Thanks.

I've got a SBC with a Flowcooler pump and a Walker radiator in my 30 coupe. A 55 Chevy lower radiator hose works great. Same hose in my 32 roadster with a 283, stock pump and original radaitor.

[timkins]

To "DDR 57", do you have a NAPA number for the hose?

[DRD57]

To "DDR 57", do you have a NAPA number for the hose?

No, just ask for a hose for a 55 Chevy with a V8.

[34ford]

Now that you guys got it figured out for a 32 how about a lower one for a 34 Ford? Would the one for the 32 be close? Maybe I need to get one and see. Found a rubber flex one but doesn't look as nice as a formed one.

thanks

bob

[Anonymous]

Why not just use some Cool-Flex ?

[C9]

Now that you guys got it figured out for a 32 how about a lower one for a 34 Ford? Would the one for the 32 be close? Maybe I need to get one and see. Found a rubber flex one but doesn't look as nice as a formed one.

thanks

bob

Get a pair of short 90 degree formed hoses and a short piece of 1 1/2" tubing.  (Muffler tubing, DOM tubing - which is what I used - or a piece of stainless or chrome plated brass pipe in the plumbing dept. at the hardware.  Most of these are 1 1/2" OD.  Most radiator bibs are 1 1/2" as well.  Check to make sure.) - (If you use the chrome plated hose use some emery paper to sand the smooth chrome finish where it goes into the radiator hose.  The sanded area will help grip the chrome plated tubing and prevent the hose from slipping off under pressure.)

Slide the tubing inside the 90 hoses.
Orient the hoses for proper fit.
Slip four radiator clamps (stainless worm drive clamps work well) over the hose.
Install.

You may have to cut one end of the 90 degree hose pieces down, many of them come with one leg longer than the other.
Tighten clamps.

It helps sometimes - depending on the steel joiner tube in the middle - to run two clamps side by side at each end of the tubing connector area.
And if things are really tight, it can help to run double clamps on the lower radiator bib.
There's usually room to do this.

After you get this connected hose setup to fit right you can either run it - as I did for eight years and 35,000 miles with no problems - or take it in as a sample for the parts guy/gal to get you a one piece hose with proper bend etc.
Take note that some of these will have a longer leg than required.
Cut them down as necessary.

Sounds like a bit of a hassle, but it's not.
The double joined hose deal went into a really tight area on my 455 Buick powered 32 roadster with 4-core Walker radiator with shroud.

[timkins]

I had "Cool Flex" and could not get the tight bend I needed to make the swing from the water pump to the outlet.

[C9]

I had "Cool Flex" and could not get the tight bend I needed to make the swing from the water pump to the outlet.

Me too.

They're a little pricy as well.

(Somebody, somewhere makes the same style convoluted pipe in a copper alloy.  Which is what Cool Flex buys and then chrome plates far as I can tell.  It's standard plumbing stuff I believe, but a little larger than most of it you see in hardware stores.  If a guy could find out where this size copper pipe is sold, it would work well to form it and paint it or perhaps nickel plate it without buffing.  Powder should look good on it as well.)

[Mr Cool]

Weve used stainless steel exhaust pipe mandrel bent to the shape required by our local exhaust shop and just used short lengths on each end as youve already done with no problems after years of service. It polishes up nicely too if you want to.
Just be aware that you'll need to ensure you have enough rubber to allow for flex without stressing the radiator inlet/outlet, or you'll be stuck on the side of the road with a major leak eventually.

[Anonymous]

I use Cool-flex all the time. Just make a loop the loop or perhaps make the fitting on your radiator into an elbow to point it away from the problem.

[Mr Cool]

I use Cool-flex all the time.

Is that because youre the Australian Distributor Simon?

[Anonymous]

Is that because youre the Australian Distributor Simon?

Yes & No.
I am the 'Australian Dealer.'

WOW the Quote button worked for me......
Now all I have to do is sort out why my signature does not work    :?: