2021: What are you doing today

[chimp koose]

Needs more metalflake!

[chimp koose]

shop time tonight . Got the louvers welded into one hood side . The panel itself has a twist that when you lay it flat , will spring one corner up :x . The louvers went in nice w/no warping this time. Just have to figure out how to take out the spring in the panel.

[idrivejunk]

Our area had black ice today, bad enough boss said don't bother coming in. (I broke my trans on black ice a year ago this week)

Yes I hear the groans    from up north.

I put it to good use, learned a lot from the chair.

[phat46]

Our area had black ice today, bad enough boss said don't bother coming in. (I broke my trans on black ice a year ago this week)

Yes I hear the groans    from up north.

I put it to good use, learned a lot from the chair.

That looks really good, especially if you're rusty!

[idrivejunk]

That looks really good, especially if you're rusty!

Thanks!  Yeah, 1987ish.

[kb426]

Waiting for it to warm up so I can get back  to being productive again. I filed income taxes today. That was the only item checked off the list. I suck and I know it.

[chimp koose]

shop time today. I made a hood side and cut it out to weld in the louvers . no warping . Then i started tacking in the louvers and after the second set of tacks I started to get a spring in the panel so I stopped for the night. I may just make a rectangle of 1/8 x 1 flat bar and weld it to the back of the panel to keep it flat and see how it works . The other panel has a spring in it too so I likely will try it there first as that one is fully welded already.

[kb426]

It was -1 here this morning. We received around 2" of fluff. I put on some real good motorcycle gear and went out and cleaned a few driveways. That's my exercise for the day.

[idrivejunk]

I think we made 8° today. Made a snow valentine for Mom. Not enough for a snowman.

CK, are you planishing the welds? Meaning grind both sides flush then smashing the weld with hammer and dolly? I have found that doing so does indeed help with the oil canny flop factor on long unsupported panels. Whatever kind of weld you are doing, it shrinks so you gotta smash it a little to set things right. Sometimes scary warpage goes completely away. Your description sounds like it might help, IF that is not something you already are doing.

Come to think of it, I did have to scrub underhood funk out of some fingernails yesterday from topping off PSF in the GTP. Thats car work did. Thoughts of art abound but I have been catching up on naps today mostly. Good stuff, there.

[chimp koose]

I have only been tapping the panel to straighten any warping after grinding it . The place that seems to have the bulge is the rear edge where the weld is less than 2" from the folded over edge of the panel . When I push the panel flat there is a dip in that area. The front and rear edges are folded over flat and the top and bottom edges are folded to 90degrees . The welded in panel is 7" from the front edge and 2" or less from the rear . Are you suggesting I go caveman with the hammer all the way around the weld or should I just go at it at the back of the panel . Would my 1/8 x1 plating method have any chance of success? I appreciate the experienced help .

[chimp koose]

I could also grind the welds flush and run just on the bead in the english wheel??? Maybe a more controlled method that me on a precision ball peen

[phat46]

I drove about 2 1/2 hrs each way today to pick up a 700r4 trans that a guy was building for me. When I got there it turns out he had build a 4 X 4 trans....😕 We had talked a couple weeks ago and he knew what I wanted and what it was going in. He is a one man operation and builds a LOT of transmissions, manly for off road guys. He said he'd have another one ready, a two wheel drive version done by tomorrow, it was actually on the bench when I was there. He agreed to meet me halfway and throw  in the fluid for free when the trans was done. Now we are expecting a snow storm tomorrow through Tuesday, 8-12", not horrible but not driving through it for a  transmission either. Next weekend, maybe, if the next scheduled storm is not too bad. On a better note, when I got home my Demon carb was here! 😃

[idrivejunk]

CK, I don't suggest the english wheel there although thats the right idea. Using a doubler piece shouldn't be necessary unless tension when closed is what bows the panel.

We are in a realm where talk ain't good for much specifically but the principle as I understand it is this: MIG welds are harder than the surrounding steel. TIG also, but to a lesser degree. So generally, naturally after grinding the weld remains a touch proud. Imagining this isn't tough until factoring in shrinkage of surrounding metal. Do a little mental balancing act and you may see how a gentle dirt hill becomes a plateau with a stone fence through it.

Thats the philisophical metal snob approach. Break up the stone fence and round off the plateau with it so you can have gentle hill back. I know of one person who makes a point to discolor the weld when grinding, as the slower heat cycle leaves it a little softer. But that expert finds dealing with warpage afterward a non-issue at his skill level. That part eludes me but the planishing is growing on me as task difficulty ramps up.

I am talking about what I do though, and the effect it has. Big boys planish with a light slapper and dolly. Mostly, I need more precision and concentration of force. Planishing the surrounding area to fine tune, OK with the slapping spoon... but at the risk of coin marks (hammer tracks) I get the best effect using one of my heavy dollies, firmly, with a tiny ball peen that came in Jeep tool kits. You know the one, its cute with the itty bitty wood handle and head. But I can pinch the snot out of just the weld that way and if the whole weld is done some it can work like magic.

But it always seems to be one spot. The solution is rarely at that spot, and what welding does to the metal is mostly not noticed. The spot is just the worst spot and as it is improved, the rest of the panel follows. And you chase the rest of it out.

The description is adequate and my off-duty 3D knee-* assessment is hit it on the folded outside edge, not the face, nearest the dent. See what that does. Try planishing if you like, plate it if it persists but that creates a corrosion hotspot and potential ghosting in time. But myself included, people forget to smack panels at the edge when theres inexplicable metal behavior. With big low crown panels, thats a giant part of controlling crown. If your foldover is pinched inconsistently just a little, it might create the situation you are seeing.

Theres two Canadian pennies' worth.  

[enjenjo]

I ordered a pair of speakers from Amazon, One came Friday, and the other came today. One shipped from Michigan, and the other from California. Is a puzzlement

[enjenjo]

I could also grind the welds flush and run just on the bead in the english wheel??? Maybe a more controlled method that me on a precision ball peen

The way I see if there is a dip from the outside, there is a hill on the inside. So work hammer on inside, dolley on outside. And of you have not sanded the weld near flush on both sides, you are going to have great difficulty moving it.

It does help to work the panel before it's fully welded because the spots you are stretching are smaller. But still should grind the welds down before the dolley and hammer work.