Mustang ll front spring replacement

WZ JUNK · June 25, 2017, 09:38:31 AM

I am changing my front springs next week on the original factory Mustang ll suspension in my 54 Chevy. In the past I usually changed springs by separating the lower arm at the spindle and then removing the spring. (greatly simplified statement) I read in an old Chiltons manual this morning that the correct way to do this on the M ll is to remove the strut arm and then the lower arm pivot bolt. I think I will give this method a try. Would any of you have any last thoughts for me before I carefully let the pressure off of the coil spring with my floor jack?

John

chimp koose · June 25, 2017, 01:08:23 PM

I would think the strut rod would allow for easier spring removal with the BALL JOINT separated rather than the lower arm pivot bolt . Does the ball joint have enough angular movement to allow the spring to come out ? I guess since the whole lower control arm
assembly is separated , the spindle would also pivot on the upper control arm mount but what about the tie rod ? I would think it could be difficult to re install the lower control arm pivot bolt while under spring pressure as well . At least with the lower control arm mounted and under spring pressure it would be much easier to re attach the lower ball joint . Try one each way and let us know how it goes .

Crosley.In.AZ · June 25, 2017, 01:31:31 PM

Seems like: the spindle Top & bottom joints would allow a wild amount of movement to the arm , trying to re-install into the chassis ?

With the arm still in the chassis & spindle ball joint lower unhooked, the spindle would be easier to re-attach ?

enjenjo · June 25, 2017, 01:47:00 PM

I generally remove the frame end of the upper A frame, and rotate it out of the way to release the spring. The alignment needs to be reset any way with the higher spring, and no damage is done to the ball joints.

WZ JUNK · June 25, 2017, 01:47:06 PM

Quote from: "Crosley"Seems like: the spindle Top & bottom joints would allow a wild amount of movement to the arm , trying to re-install into the chassis ?

With the arm still in the chassis & spindle ball joint lower unhooked, the spindle would be easier to re-attach ?

I agree. After looking at the lower arm in the car, it actually goes up into a pocket before the bolt captures the arm. The spring would go in easier by this method, but getting it all back in place would be tough.

John

416Ford · June 26, 2017, 08:04:52 AM

I have tried the lower arm mounting bolt option and had a terrible time trying to put the bolt back in. really scary reaching around the compressed spring while moving the jack trying to get the bushing at the correct angle plus tapping on it to get it in.
Ball joint is my choice.

WZ JUNK · June 28, 2017, 06:52:05 PM

I got the springs installed today. I am not happy at the moment but hopefully I will feel better after it settles some. It drives good. The new springs raised the front bumper a little more than 6 inches. More than I wanted and needed. Now the A arms are pointed slightly down or about the opposite of what I had. I will drive it some for a few days and see how it goes. I had to make a spring compressor because I could not find one that would work to satisfy me and one that was safe. Long hard day for an old man.

John

Crosley.In.AZ · June 28, 2017, 08:43:16 PM

Quote from: "WZ JUNK"I got the springs installed today. I am not happy at the moment but hopefully I will feel better after it settles some. It drives good. The new springs raised the front bumper a little more than 6 inches. More than I wanted and needed. Now the A arms are pointed slightly down or about the opposite of what I had. I will drive it some for a few days and see how it goes. I had to make a spring compressor because I could not find one that would work to satisfy me and one that was safe. Long hard day for an old man.

John

Reminds me of my first V8 instal into a Vega. Several people told me to use "these" springs. I Dont rmember the application. The front of the Vega sat way high , almost gasser style. It never settled down. So, another set of springs tried, then I cut a set & was happpy.

I hope your path is shorter

kb426 · June 28, 2017, 09:26:03 PM

Anytime an old guy mentions 6" of anything I'm wondering if it will end well. I will be very surprised if it would settle even 3" in short term. How long and how many bumps does it take for a spring to reach it's normalized state? I don't know. The springs on the front of the 51 settled more that the rear but less than 2" at most. That would have been over 3000 miles and a year and a half with weight on them. Does anybody have a formula for calculating spring relaxation?

?

chimp koose · June 28, 2017, 11:36:03 PM

Springs get stiffer when you cut them too ,so if you need to cut 6" then I would chose a lighter spring .

Mikej · June 29, 2017, 11:47:55 AM

I think those will settle about an inch. I used those on the coupe. I cut them before they settled and ended up to low. If you have the front aligned now it may drop a little more.

papastoyss · June 29, 2017, 03:53:02 PM

I'm a little late for the party, but fwiw I put jackstands under the frame, loosen the upper ball joint nut about 3 or 4 threads & whack the spindle w/ a bfh where the ball joint stud hole is to break loose the interference fit. Then slide a floor jack under the lower ball joint 90 degrees to the frame, jack up the lower arm enough to release tension on the upper ball joint nut , remove the nut & gently lower the lower a arm to release tension on the spring. I've never had to dodge a spring yet!

WZ JUNK · August 01, 2017, 05:29:53 PM

Latest news.

The car settled about a 1/2" so far. I expected more.

I called Speedway today and I talked to the tech guy. Good guy and very knowledgeable. He asked me if I had trimmed the springs yet? He said that the springs are manufactured taller than they need to be and you trim off the amount needed to get the ride height that you want. There were no instructions with the springs and there is no information in the catalog. I guess that I was supposed to know that they springs are to be trimmed to fit but I did not. Silly me. Next week I will remove the springs and cut them. Now I will need to decide how much to cut off. He suggested to start with removing a full coil. Do any of you have any recommendations? At least they should go back in easier when they are shorter.

John

kb426 · August 01, 2017, 06:56:13 PM

John, my thought is to measure the free height versus the weighted vehicle height and make an educated blind a!! guess. If you have both of those numbers, can't a math calculation be close?

chimp koose · August 01, 2017, 07:37:04 PM

Ball joint to control arm bushing vs control arm bushing to centre of spring should give you the ratio . Like the ratio for a brake pedal . If it was say 2:1 then 3" off spring should get 6" of lowering . This does not take into account the spring getting stiffer as it is shortened . I will call on any engineers in the crowd to show us that math , it exists I just don't know it .