Power windows 41-48 Ford

[416Ford]

Let me start off by saying thanks to phat rat.
What I did can be done on a lot of Fords. Just not sure what years and what may need to change.

What you need.
Power window motor
   (Left hand Hollander 617-174L, Dorman 742-250)
   (Right hand Hollander 617-205, Dorman 742-251)
Threaded rod (10-32)
Nuts (10-32)



I was told that I could install power windows in my 46 by just adding a power window motor to my original regulators. I was told that Ford used the same gear for many years and this is what phat rat had in his car.
I ordered up a window motor for a 81 ford and went through the set-up just for find out that the motor was too big. He did tell me that he used the SMALL motor. Now I know why....
Here are the steps I used on the SMALL motor.
I purchased a power window motor for a 69 Torino from NAPA.
Remove or in my case grade the spare window regulator.

Remove the crank shaft and the pocket on the back side of the regulator that hold the shaft.


Grind the excess off to make look like a pro did the work not a hack. There is plenty of room for that later.

Set the motor on the back side of the regulator with the gears matched up and mark the two holes. The motor should stand upright in the car or 90* to the door mount.
(The one hole will be close to the factory nut, try and give yourself as much room possible for about a 3/16" hole)

Center punch the two locations and drill the holes.

I purchased a piece of threaded rod 10-32 and about a dozen nuts to help me figure this out and to have in the garage for stock.

The motor needs to be raised up off of the regulator so I cut two piece of threaded rod at about 4" and screw them into the motor mounting holes. Installed one nut on each rod and checked to make sure the holes were in the correct spot for the motor to slide down into position. Adjust hole location if needed.

I then cut two pieces of ½" square ground them as needed to fit over the two hole so I could drill them or in my case grind out a slot for the threaded rod to pass through.  I then installed the motor and rods again, tighten them down and check for clearance. If everything is good, weld them on.

Install the motor and flip the assembly over to add the third mount. I installed put a 1/2" square on mine, flush to the bottom of the regulator face. Welded it on, marked my hole and removed the motor. Once the motor was removed I welded the back side and drilled the clearance hole.

Since there is no way to get at the holes without drilling holes in the door and fighting to hold the motor in place while installing it, I opted studs and nut to mount the motor.

The three holes that have the studs will need the studs removed and drilled out for clearance. I also counter sunk the three holes on the back of the regulator for a better weld.

Install studs and a nut through the motor and into the holes so the studs are about flush with the back of the regulator and weld them in place. Remove the nuts, trim the rods long enough to install a lock nut or a double nut set up. Whatever your preference is. I will be using a lock nut and Loctite.

That's it.
Now re-install them and run your wiring.
















Hope this help someone else also.

[phat rat]

Hey you did new motors, I got mine from the boneyard. There are a lot of different FMCO cars that use the small motors. My switches came from the rear doors of a 4 dr Taurus

[416Ford]

Did you use five or six prong? Looking for the harness wire tonight.

[phat rat]

Off the top of my head after 19 years I have no idea. I'll have to look at spare switches and motors

[idrivejunk]

Nice write-up and pics. The 41 I worked on last year's owner wanted crank-ups and that was arguably more trouble than converting to power. I found the mess of different channels and regulators and the quality of the available stuff to be alarming. Thought to myself that those vehicles cry out for a cable type regulator conversion. Had a tough time with the windows on that truck, using what I had. But the thing had hidden hinges, shaved handles and power latches. Thanks for showing us the light, it looks fairly simple to modify whats there if you have a good regulator.

[kb426]

Cool! I'll remember this if I decide to do power windows again.

[416Ford]

Nice write-up and pics
Thought to myself that those vehicles cry out for a cable type regulator conversion.

Thanks and I looked at that option also. This is flat glass so I grabbed a motor and regulator out of a back door on a Cherokee. The issue with that was the space to keep the cable in it shape and fabricating mount for everything in the middle of the door where everything is open from the factory.

[enjenjo]

Ford Motors work in other makes too. The windows in the Marlin have Lincoln motors on them We did a 63 GMC truck with GM motors. The strangest one was a 40 Chevy four door. Rear power window regulators from an AMC Concord rear doors fit the 41 Chevy front doors by drilling two holes, and changing the angle of the lift arm.

[phat rat]

The thing about the cable type is the cables do break or a roller could freeze up. My car is also hidden hinges with shaved handles. But I don't have power latches I use a remote to roll the window down and reach in for the inside handle to open the door. So there's no hidden button for someone to find and one less electrical component to fail

[416Ford]

Any way of knowing if the 95 Roadmaster switch is for a reverse polarity or not?
Or doesn't if matter...
Looking for a small 4 door switch that I can get from a bone yard with the plug.

[enjenjo]

It is a reverse polarity switch. Should work fine.  Google Part # 12354968 for the terminals.

[416Ford]

Now I feel like an idiot.
I have the switch, have the regulators done and found the pink hot wire form the fuse box. Now all I have to do is wire it..........Now I am in over my head.
I wired my whole car but I can't figure out power windows.
I read about relays, and all I get is more confused with each article telling me a different way of how to do it.
Could someone please draw up or show me a schematic to wire this up. Not sure on witch relays to use either.
I only have two wires going into the doors and I am not installing the switches on the doors, only in the center console..... Thanks

[phat rat]

Without taking my door apart I can't tell you which wire goes where. But if my memory serves me correctly Ford switches are not reverse polarity like GM is. I did look at an extra switch I have (Ford) and it has 5 wires coming of it and it's a rear door switch.

[416Ford]

The other thing that is causing a problem is the remote activated down. Motor wires need to be grounded while at rest.
Jack, the switch is not the main problem for me. it's the motors being reverse polarity and the remote.
I will wire the rear windows next year.

[enjenjo]

You can find a bunch of diagrams here  

https://www.google.com/search?q=gm+power+window+switch+wiring+diagram&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=899&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=tGgMVfKRK4mXgwTq_YIg&ved=0CB0QsAQ#imgdii=_  

Use the one that matches your switches.