2004 Buick Regal Ignition switch problem

Started by Erick, May 23, 2011, 11:47:53 AM

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Erick

Hey. I know this isn't an old car but it's my daily driver for work. I hope it's alright to ask as I'm kind of at a loss. The car stalled on me when I put the transmission into drive after backing the car up. Cranked it over a few times and was a very hard start. Drove it the next day and it seemed OK but seemed have a little less guts when accelerating. When going to start the car the next morning the car would turn over fine but would not fire. Acting like it wanted to a couple times but no go. All the lights seemed to be working fine and no dash inidicators turned on. The battery did get run down. At this point we pushed the car out to tow home. My buddy had turned the switched to the off position, taken the keys out, and had put the car back into Park when getting a tow strap on. When he went to turn the ignition back on and put car into neutral the ignition switch would not turn. Steering wheel was also locked and unable to shift out of park. The battery had been completely drained when this happened. We did try to jump the battery and try to get the switch to unlock and turn to the on position but would not move. I had some people tell me that the ignition switch is more than likely broke and replacing it will fix my problems. It was said that this is very common for this to break. I've been doing some searching and I'm not really sure. I have it ready to take the ignition switch out to replace with a new one but it's in the locked position. I am still unable to move the key into the on position in order to depress the lock to remove the switch. I'm wondering if there may be something else I should consider first? If the switch is the problem, has anybody exerienced it locking up like mine has and how did you get it apart without breaking anything? Thanks very much for the help.

wvcab

try cranking the steering wheel hard, and then try turning the key.

wayne petty

i totally agree with shaking the wheel back and forth...  sometimes it will release tension on the lock components and allow it to turn...

dorman does have a video on replacing the lock shell on some newer gm models..

but you have probably already seen this...



do you have any thing that could be used to rake the lock tumblers with lightly.. to verify each one is free to move..    not the easiest thing to do..

be sure to pay attention to the instructions at the end of the video..

if you have more than one key.. after the final instruction.. turn the key off and insert another key and start the engine again within 10 seconds for it to learn additional keys..


there has been discussion that the shifter interlock cable hanging up has caused similar problems.. but i have not personally worked on these yet..

shifter  components column shift

http://www.compnine.com/index.php?u=1&year=2004&artnbr=MW04-046&artsfx=1&supplgroup=70&catcode=49W&modelcode=W&makecode=B&modelseries=WA&uid=1&modelid=1147577409&capuid=1&majorgroup=04&grouptype=B

shifter  components floor shift

http://www.compnine.com/index.php?u=1&year=2004&artnbr=MW04-057&artsfx=NULL&supplgroup=70&catcode=49W&modelcode=W&makecode=B&modelseries=WA&uid=1&modelid=1147577409&capuid=1&majorgroup=04&grouptype=B


steering column , column shift..

http://www.compnine.com/index.php?u=1&year=2004&artnbr=MW06-049&artsfx=NULL&supplgroup=NULL&catcode=49W&modelcode=W&makecode=B&modelseries=WS&uid=1&modelid=1147577409&capuid=1&majorgroup=06&grouptype=B

steering column floor shift...


http://www.compnine.com/index.php?u=1&year=2004&artnbr=MW06-050&artsfx=NULL&supplgroup=NULL&catcode=49W&modelcode=W&makecode=B&modelseries=WB&uid=1&modelid=1147577409&capuid=1&majorgroup=06&grouptype=B

enjenjo

Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

Erick

Hey. Sorry for the delay. I did get it apart. The tumbler inside the lock cylinder had broke and had to drill it out. Was able to break the cylinder apart enough in order to turn it so I could unlock it and slide it out. The video that was posted was good to know for programming the key. The new keys and lock cylinder didn't come with instructions. The problem now though is the computer won't seem to set to the chip in the new keys. I'm able to get everything to work but the car won't program the new key and the car won't turn over. It is the cheapest lock cylinder I could buy and I think that is the problem. Looking into it now I was able to find a few people complain about the cheapies saying they couldn't get the keys to program either and a few other problems. I ordered an AC Delco lock cylinder and will try that next week.

Thanks.

wayne petty

do the new keys have a PK1 or PK2 on the side???

i posted a while back several links to motor magazine.. on the VATS and the PASS system...

that will help..

you might also want to keep a battery charger hooked up and supplying power...


did the new lock come with tumblers???

if not...  insert original key.. start engine..    let run.. shut off..  quickly change keys and restart engine within 10 seconds of the shut down..

let me look around.. see if i can find those links...


http://www.motor.com/article_pdf_download.asp?article_ID=1021

http://www.motor.com/article_pdf_download.asp?article_ID=848

http://www.motor.com/article_pdf_download.asp?article_ID=969

these should download as acrobat files...

the lock cylinder image.. without the outer shell...
http://www.rmsautoparts.com/prodimages/D1492C.gif

      CYLINDER,STRG COL LK & IGN SW
Part Number:  D1492C
Product Notes:
[Ignition Cylinder]; 4Dr
Per Vehicle: 1; Years: 2001-2004


you might want to right click to download this file... mine is still coming in..

http://aftermarket.strattec.com/docs/Historical%20Catalogs/2009%20Strattec%20Automotive%20Lock%20&%20Key%20Catalog.pdf


Erick

The new cylinder did come with a new tumbler. I wasn't able to get the old key to work with the new cylinder. I'm at work and don't remember if there was anything on the keys. I will have to check tonight when I get home. When trying to program the keys I did what the video said to do. I tried to start the car and let the key reposition back to the ON position. I waited for the security light to stop flashing. When that happened I turned the key to the OFF position and counted to ten. I then turned the key to start it but nothing. Dash lights would go out and sounded like a click but nothing else would happen. Turn it back the ON position and then the security light would start flashing again and then would try the whole process all over again. I found one board that said to let the key sit in the ON position for ten minutes and then turn it to the OFF position for several seconds. Said to do this a total of three times before trying to start. If that didn't work it was said to turn to the ON position for 15 minutes and then off for several seconds. They said to do this once. I tried all of that and nothing changed.

Erick

I didn't remove the key when I placed it to the off position. Maybe that is it? I didn't try doing that and probably should have.

Erick

I looked at the keys and can't find any markings on them. I also just got done with letting it set for 10 min then pull the key for a few seconds. Did that a total of three times. Still when I go turn the key completly to crank the car the dash lights go out and just hear a click. Engine won't turn over. I do have a charger hooked up.

Erick

Ok. I guess I had to be more patient with leaving the key in the ON position for the Security light to go out. I finally did get the key to work and fire up the car. Now the problem is that the car runs horrible. Acts like it's only firing on half the cylinders. The Security light stays on when it's doing this and the service engine light comes on. Thanks a lot for the help on this thing. I really do appreciate it.

wayne petty

i would like to know if you have a friend with a scan tool...

scan it for codes... if the check engine light is on...   there will be a code..



the only humorous thing i can think of is while the alarm system was disabled... somebody got in the engine compartment and stole half the spark plugs or coils..


you might have to do a crank sensor cam sensor realignment test.... i seem to recall something like that...   its done with the scan tool....  lets the ECM learn where stuff aligns...  all the cycling on and off of the ignition might have messed up the computer sync...

wayne petty

perhaps codes like this..

P0010 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
P0011 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)
P0012 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
P0013 "B" Camshaft Position - Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
P0014 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1) - See Trouble Code P0011
P0015 "B" Camshaft Position -Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1) - See Trouble Code P0012
P0016 Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor A)
P0017 Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor B)
P0018 Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 2 Sensor A)
P0019 Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 2 Sensor B)
P0020 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 2)
P0021 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2)
P0022 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2)
P0023 "B" Camshaft Position - Actuator Circuit (Bank 2) - See Trouble Code P0020
P0024 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2) - See Trouble Code P0021
P0025 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2) - See Trouble Code P0022


or

P0315 Crankshaft Position System Variation Not Learned
P0316 Misfire Detected On Startup (First 1000 Revolutions)
P0317 Rough Road Hardware Not Present
P0318 Rough Road Sensor A Signal Circuit
P0319 Rough Road Sensor B Signal Circuit
P0320 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction
P0321 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance
P0322 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal
P0323 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Intermittent
P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank I or Single Sensor)
P0326 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0327 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input (Bank I or Single Sensor)
P0328 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit High Input (Bank I or Single Sensor)
P0329 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Intermittent (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0330 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2)
P0331 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 2)
P0332 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input (Bank 2)
P0333 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit High Input (Bank 2)
P0334 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Intermittent (Bank 2)
P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0337 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Low Input
P0338 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit High Input
P0339 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0343 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit High Input
P0344 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0345 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2)
P0346 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 2)
P0347 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Low Input (Bank 2)
P0348 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit High Input (Bank 2)
P0349 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent (Bank 2)



try this link...

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0340

Erick

Thanks. I'll have to track down a scanner. I don't have much luck with knowing others that have tools. Kinda seems like they are always trying to get mine. Ha! Honestly with the way some things have been lately I thought somebody might have done something with the plugs and wires but everything is where it should be. I'll get some stuff tracked down on this thing and get it figured out.

Thanks.

wayne petty

if you have a harbor freight around.. their 98614 scanner is the best for the money...

http://www.harborfreight.com/can-obd-ii-code-reader-eobd-scanner-98614.html

the manual for it...

important to start reading at section 5.2....

http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/98000-98999/98614.pdf

code readers are almost worthless..

as are some so called scan tools. that don't show live data stream...