A new project

Started by Charlie Chops 1940, June 03, 2009, 10:21:41 PM

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Charlie Chops 1940

Here's a couple pics of the pedal assembly, on the bench, and mocked up in the car. I have had it bolted in but the snugging it in with the bolts put a little bow in the back part, which in turned caused the clutch pedal double shear brackets to pinch too tight. Minor rework required.

You can see that the clutch pedal has no offset so that I could place the assy as close to the left side as possible as I still have to get a column and foot feed in there. It's working out as I envisioned so far.

Charlie
A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying. "Wow...that was fun!"

Poster geezer for retirement....

A Hooligan!

WZ JUNK

It looks great Charlie.  You are on a roll this winter.

"It's working out as I envisioned so far. "  Be careful about making statements like this.  About the time I say this everything turns into scrap metal.

John
WZ JUNK
Chopped 48 Chevy Truck
Former Crew chief #974 1953 Studebaker   
Past Bonneville record holder B/BGCC 249.9 MPH

Crosley.In.AZ

there is that lone shoe again..

Not much room for the loud pedal in there...  :lol:


looks goood.
Tony

 Plutophobia (Fear of money)

Charlie Chops 1940

Quote from: "WZ JUNK"It looks great Charlie.  You are on a roll this winter.

"It's working out as I envisioned so far. "  Be careful about making statements like this.  About the time I say this everything turns into scrap metal.

John

Ahh, but the qualifier is "so far" - there's the wiggle room for when the doodoo hits the fan - LOL.

Charlie
A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying. "Wow...that was fun!"

Poster geezer for retirement....

A Hooligan!

wayne petty

are you going to make the pedal pads removable at first.   so you can modify the pad shapes and offsets after you get the carpet in... and to make it comfortable to drive ????  without having to pull the whole pedal assy to mod things.. or pull the carpet???

two tabs on the back of the pedal with 2 bolts through to pinch the pedal lever tight and to stop the pad from rocking..    

__|_|__     top view of the pedal.

i was also thinking of the backing on the carpet that surrounds your pedals..

a corvette came through the shop i worked at one day.. that the floor mats were glued to , then  bound at the edges to a thin piece of flexible metal...  probably dead soft aluminum..  could have also been lead.. but not likely..

my thought is to stop the edges from curling up and getting caught in the pedals...  and molding the carpet to the shape of your foot well..

i know that there is at least one carpet store that makes carpet squares with a edge binding machine... i have been tempted to cut a new rug for my E250 and have them bind the edges...


just a thought... from a forward thinker..

Charlie Chops 1940

Wayne, I'll make up steel spoon pedals to the pattern I saved from the track roadster. The pad forms the cross of an inverted tee, the leg of the tee gets a hole same as the cross hole in the bottom of the pedal arm. A little cross hatch on the pieces, a bolt and a nyloc nut and that's done. I found that sufficient on the roadster to keep the spoon from moving. I may glue a piece of rubber to the face of the spoons but I don't expect water to be a problem as in the roadster.

Haven't thought all the way to floor covering yet but you are right it takes some effort to keep the carpet/rubber pad/whatever from wadding up under your heals. The roadster has a piece of sticky backed anti-skid safety stuff on the floor. It hasn't moved or changed appearance in the first 3,000 miles. There are drains in the foot well and I just wash it out occasionally.

Charlie
A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying. "Wow...that was fun!"

Poster geezer for retirement....

A Hooligan!

Charlie Chops 1940

This week was a little slow but I managed to finish all the small gaps in the firewall and fit a steering column. It's a Speedway s/s unit I got in a trade and actually not quite long enough, but it'll work for now. I made a tubular cross bar between the door jambs and will attach the column and the rear of the brake assembly to it. Whacked the top off a Volvo dash as a starting point for a new dash.

Started assenly of the front end and strut rods yesterday. Hope to have it on wheels this week.

Charlie
A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying. "Wow...that was fun!"

Poster geezer for retirement....

A Hooligan!

wchappo

Hi Charlie,SOOH!!!!!can i come outta the naughty corner,i promise i'll be good & not mention the bowls again :) ,anyway it's that time of year again,wishing you & yours all the best for xmas & the coming year,when the new projects finished you can ship it out to oz to run the salt at Lake Gaidner in South Australia,i'll have a few bourban's to you on chrissy day,the "bowls mobile"is looking good,hope you  are including a nice safe place for the bowls in the design process,sorry couldn't help myself :roll: I know I know!!!I'M OFF TO THE  NAUGHTY CORNER',Chappo :twisted:

taxpyer

Is the mechanisim for your master cylinder a clutch/brake unit turned on it's side? :?  You sure do nice work. Now show us the pile of misfit debris in the corner to get to that stage :lol: :P  Filling the master cylinder will be a bear. Sure nice work though. Thanks for posting the pics they're inspiring. 8)
What\'s that noise?,,, Never mind,, I\'ll check it later

Charlie Chops 1940

taxpyer,

The clutch/brake assy started life as a Kugel brake assembly for inside mount with the M/C mounted 90* to the firewall. The main bracket is the same as one with a clutch so I've made a CE thru the floor pedal into a hanging clutch pedal and will add the mounts for the clutch master next time I take the assy out. I use a flexible  spout squirt oil can to put the fluid in - I have the same unit in my track roadster - it works fine and just needs a careful touch to not spill.

Charlie

Quote from: "taxpyer"Is the mechanisim for your master cylinder a clutch/brake unit turned on it's side? :?  You sure do nice work. Now show us the pile of misfit debris in the corner to get to that stage :lol: :P  Filling the master cylinder will be a bear. Sure nice work though. Thanks for posting the pics they're inspiring. 8)
A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying. "Wow...that was fun!"

Poster geezer for retirement....

A Hooligan!

Charlie Chops 1940

A few more bits of progress this week. I put the mockup engine/trans back in and fabricated a set of engine mount pedestals. I'm using 70's era stock motor mounts with the safety tabs but I may spring for some of the newer poly units that have become available in the last few years.

The frame mounts were made out of 6 pieces: a piece of tubing and a pad to bear up against the motor mount, a front and rear triangular piece to reach from the frame over to the motor mount and upper and lower boxing plates.

I finished the frame mounts today and tacked them in securely. I put the front suspension parts on. and decided to mount up a pair of 195 60 15 front tires from inventory on a pair of 15x6-1/2" Hals to match the rear. They are temporary until I can cough up for a wider set. Thinking they will be 235-60's which will be almost another 2" wider.

Here's a few pics.
A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying. "Wow...that was fun!"

Poster geezer for retirement....

A Hooligan!

Flipper

That 195/60 looks like plenty of tire for that car.

Charlie Chops 1940

I did a little body work this summer but still don't have any primer shot on the Volvo.

But, I managed to fit a large flip top gas cap to the sail area on the drivers side. My wife donated an aluminum pan lid for a tray for the cap.

Getting ready to put it in storage for the winter so I decided to tackle the front sheet metal. I determined that the front fenders needed to be pushed out 3" on each side of the car. I figured that the center piece of the nose would be the place to start so I added 3" to each side of it, which also allowed the core support to be made wider for a cross-flow radiator if I decide to go that way. Since the front is vee shaped the widening made it necessary to move the center piece forward about 1-1/2" to line up the tires in the wheel well. So, after I made a new core support bracket I was able to mock it up.

Pictures go through that stage.

I have a 46-48 Ford grille and will use the front 1/3 of a Ford hood to make the resulting Volvo hood fit like a 46-48 Ford hood. I will make new filler panels to extend the fenders under the hood sides. The gap down the backside will get an aluminum lover filled panel to help remove air from the engine compartment and the under-fender area. Headlights will get moved up and out. I will use the aluminum go-fast Ford buckets from the 46-48 front end.

Charlie
A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying. "Wow...that was fun!"

Poster geezer for retirement....

A Hooligan!

phat46

You're going to have a lot of people scratching their heads over this one!  :lol: Very Nice work!

Digger

Just when you think you are winning the Rat Race, along come faster rats!

Digger