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the selling fees are whats gonna kill ebay not shipping....


the silmple reason why craigslist is taking over....

put ground clamp on and weld....  go watch a guy an an exhaust shop.. they never disconnect the battery..

 most modern vehicles have multiple ground straps from the engine to the chassis, and also the body to the chassis..

Linear? I have an old Stewart Warner speedo in my '34 and it's I checked out which driver and driven gears I should have in my 700R4 trans taking tire diameter and rear gear into account. At 30MPH it's close and at 40MPH it's right on the money but at 50 it's showing a little over 60 and it gets progressively worse the faster I go. How can it be perfect at 40 and out after that? I'm checking it against my GPS.

the way ive always understood it is speedometers can be off as much as 10% either way

general rule is .001 per inch..

you have cash..
your in front of him..
he can take the time to take pictures, and write up listings for ebay sells
he doesnt have to take the time to box it up, go to ups or post office and ship it...
he can pay more ebay seller fees...
he can pack the crap back up and haul it home...
he can haul it to the next show..

what the hell is he doing there if he can sell it on ebay from home?

just before you walk away,tell him to go home and sell it on ebay..

pwned

thanks..

you can delete this post if you want enjenjo

did i do it correct?

 admin can delete this if needed..

Yesterday while I was waiting at the Dentist's office I was reading the March Issue of Car and Driver.

Read a roadtest of a hot new 2011 Mustang coming out with a 'real' 5.0 V8 with Dual Overhead Cams, Variable Cam Timing and 4 Valves per cylinder and Fuel Injection with a claimed 412 horse power.

Oh My God!!, where have I been, I was under the impression back 'in the day' our torque monster V8's were figured on a more lenient SAE HP figure so when our Hemi's and BB's were in the 425hp range they really weren't near that HP as modern day ratings are figured.

So. That Mustang with 412 Hp in a small Mustang must really be a supercar compared to what we had 'In The Day'.

Then I read that the poor Mustang was actually 'down on horsepower' compared to Camaro with 425hp and Challenger with 426 hp, or vice versa, Geese are these monsters actually available to customers and on the streets?

Why haven't I heard more about this? Talk about glory days for factory street racers.

Guess I better come out from under my rock more often.

 
i have an 80 stepside with a 427 in it.. i can tell you the power the 427 in my truck puts out is way more than what they said a 427 was suppose to. the 427 was rated at like 390- 425hp depending on year, mine will hit over 500hp and 575ftlb torque at the rear wheels,and its pretty much stock, the cam is a little bigger than stock, undercut valves in small chamber oval port heads with minimal work done on them.. just think to add a blower or nitrous to that, your knocking on 750hp or better and as much or more torque..

i drive an 04 dodge hemi, bought it new, it has 46,000 miles on it.. i put a cold air intake on it, 4:10 gears, cat back exhaust and a superchips programmer on it..  factory rated at 345hp, after the cold air intake, exhaust and programmer it put out a whopping 295hp at the rear wheels, on a chassis dyno... to me its a pig but it runs better than most trucks ive been in, except for lightnings, and the chevy ss trucks. but most of those are blown.. the older lightnings i can run with theyre not blown..

so dont let the numbers fool you, i think most are hype, some makes of these cars dont respond well to mods,namely the dodges, the computer kills the dodges..  also dont forget to deduct atleast 20% driveline loss on the factory ratings, plus the more power you put out the greater the percentage of power loss there is..

thats where i think the old ratings and the new ratings differ... i'm not sure but i do know the old ratings are different from the new hp ratings.

i'm not knocking the new cars and trucks, but i can knock their price tags, take an older car, spend 1/3 the money on it and blow the doors off the new rides, and drive away laughing..

until the next gas station.

well yea i get about 10miles to the gallon, with the 950dbl pumper on it, you could put a fast fuel injection on it and probably get 15-18mpg maybe a tad more.. but i didnt spend $30,000 either, i have about $12000 in it.. shoot my T-bucket will have less than $10,000 in it..
so i can drive about $20,000 worth of gas in it before i can complain plus i dont fork out $400 a month for a payment...

Yesterday while I was waiting at the Dentist's office I was reading the March Issue of Car and Driver.

Read a roadtest of a hot new 2011 Mustang coming out with a 'real' 5.0 V8 with Dual Overhead Cams, Variable Cam Timing and 4 Valves per cylinder and Fuel Injection with a claimed 412 horse power.

Oh My God!!, where have I been, I was under the impression back 'in the day' our torque monster V8's were figured on a more lenient SAE HP figure so when our Hemi's and BB's were in the 425hp range they really weren't near that HP as modern day ratings are figured.

So. That Mustang with 412 Hp in a small Mustang must really be a supercar compared to what we had 'In The Day'.

Then I read that the poor Mustang was actually 'down on horsepower' compared to Camaro with 425hp and Challenger with 426 hp, or vice versa, Geese are these monsters actually available to customers and on the streets?

Why haven't I heard more about this? Talk about glory days for factory street racers.

Guess I better come out from under my rock more often.

 
i have an 80 stepside with a 427 in it.. i can tell you the power the 427 in my truck puts out is way more than what they said a 427 was suppose to. the 427 was rated at like 390- 425hp depending on year, mine will hit over 500hp and 575ftlb torque at the rear wheels,and its pretty much stock, the cam is a little bigger than stock, undercut valves in small chamber oval port heads with minimal work done on them.. just think to add a blower or nitrous to that, your knocking on 750hp or better and as much or more torque..

i drive an 04 dodge hemi, bought it new, it has 46,000 miles on it.. i put a cold air intake on it, 4:10 gears, cat back exhaust and a superchips programmer on it..  factory rated at 345hp, after the cold air intake, exhaust and programmer it put out a whopping 295hp at the rear wheels, on a chassis dyno... to me its a pig but it runs better than most trucks ive been in, except for lightnings, and the chevy ss trucks. but most of those are blown.. the older lightnings i can run with theyre not blown..

so dont let the numbers fool you, i think most are hype, some makes of these cars dont respond well to mods,namely the dodges, the computer kills the dodges..  also dont forget to deduct atleast 20% driveline loss on the factory ratings, plus the more power you put out the greater the percentage of power loss there is..

thats where i think the old ratings and the new ratings differ... i'm not sure but i do know the old ratings are different from the new hp ratings.

i'm not knocking the new cars and trucks, but i can knock their price tags, take an older car, spend 1/3 the money on it and blow the doors off the new rides, and drive away laughing..

Pulled it! The 2 compression rings  were aligned TOGETHER I turned the so many degrees apart, I think the reason I had NO clearance on one side is because of this. ?? The rods are new . How do I check for bent?

you could take a straight edge if you can fit it between the piston and the small end, and run it from the big end of the rod to the small end and see if the rods flat on the ground surfaces.. then i guess just eyeball it..

 the ring end gaps should be misaligned and not in-line with each other....

 i think you need to look at your valves, springs,lifters and pushrods on that cylinder... and look at the lobes on your cam, you mighta wiped them on that cylinder when you did the break-in..cam and lifters have been a common problem since they took the zinc out of the engine oil.

This may be entirely wrong but one site that I was reading a while ago said the new Mustangs with the 8.8 differential only had four bolt wheels. The guys that wanted to convert to five bolt wheels were going to the junkyards and taking pieces out of the 8.8 rear ends in Ford Rangers. They were taking the drums and brakes but unfortunately only one of the Ranger's axels was the same length as the Mustang's so they had to get one axel (left?) out of two diffferent rear ends to get a pair for their Mustangs, I take that to mean that both axels in those Mustangs is the same length. Maybe that centers their housing. GPster

correct, thats why when you narrow an explorer rearend you get an extra shortside axle from a ranger or explorer.

On my '78 Ford 302" in my "T" I  had NO compression on #1 cylinder.It ran o.k. sounded like a big cam in it.LOL I pulled the head and put a feeler gauge between the piston and wall. Had about .005 on one side until it hit he rings and on the OTHER side (180 degrees across) I couldn't get he gauge in at all.  The engine is a fresh rebuild bored 30 over. Any ideas?  Strange to me.

you'll have clearance at the top of the piston, the skirt has the closer tolerance. check bore for roundness and size.
what the valve springs look like? sounds like you didnt have a valve closing.

thos esteering quickeners are high dollar units...

$150
http://howeracing.com/p-7432-original-steering-quickener.aspx
http://howeracing.com/p-7433-stealth-hd-steering-quickener.aspx

Not outrageous if you really want one.

its not needed


its the actual mini-sprint or modified steering units that are the expensive item..my bad, but i did state that in an earlier post

http://www.speedpartz.com/schroeder_steering_assembly.htm

its a basic kit..   bet i could take it and make it work fine.. most builders/home fabricators could. mount to a dom or nice square tube frame, add pillar block, make a better pitman arm.. not rocket science

 
heres the article in streetrodder using the kit in an install. looks good enough to me, only thing i would do is move the pillar block to the inside, and used a piece of tubing across the toe board for the mount..

http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0908sr_gas_alley_street_rods_cowl_steering_conversion_kit/index.html