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This is my new hillclimb/ice-race/solo/whatever car.  I have delusions of running pikes-peak someday before they close the hill.   Aaanyway, it needs a starter, and a short transmission, and preferably 3 forward gears instead of 2 (powerglide).  I know this can be done, but I'm trying to figure out the least painful way of doing it.  Hmmmmm.   The front starter is not a preferred solution, especially with a 12:1 383.  I promise to post pictures after I figure it out & construct it.

The plot sickens:

I've been taking some measurements and dorking around... and I'm thinking of eliminating the ring gear.

Question: has anyone ever relocated a starter to the front of the engine?  I've never seen it done, but I suppose anything is possible.

Why am I doing this?

I knew a guy who had his mailbox fastened to a junk Allison V12 block at the end of his driveway.  I doubt he had this problem.  

Q1:  I've surfed around trying to find it with no luck... does anyone have the dimensions of the bolt pattern on the back of small and big block chevys AND big block mopars?

Q2:  I'm mating a big block 727 torqueflite to a small block chevy.  Any advice?  Any jeep people or similar who have done this?  I need to make a custom motorplate anyway so buying a kit is pretty much not an answer, except to buy one as a really expensive pattern.

Why am I doing this? (someone is bound to incredulously ask).  I need a shorty 3speed because it's going into a sprint car.

Does anyone have bellhousing dimensions for sbc and bb-mopar?

Thanks folks!
-Richard

Followup: the internals were completely toasted... clutch disks welded to each other, high drum was gone... they told me the case and valvebody were pretty much the only parts unscathed.   So much for my "good used" tranny.  There's a lesson in there somewhere.

Thanks for the advice though folks!

-Richard

Something strange is afoot, the govornor wasn't stuck and the valve body seemed to cycle (hmmm did I do it right?).   I did a pressure test, and the pressure is through the roof.  At idle it was 250psi plus (tv closed), and up if I revved it.  It would clear 600 I'm sure, but I didn't want to ruin the gauge.

There was a lot of friction material in the bottom of the pan (was clean when I put it in)... so I've decided to pull it and hand it off to a pro....

Any suggestions for shops in the Denver CO area?

Question: for streetable sbf power levels, with occaisional light towing, is a 2" OD band upgrade necessary?

Thanks folks!

shameless plug: older pic of the car on my website www.von-sneidern.com

I Finally got the car mostly together and.... I'm having transmission woes.

This is a supposedly good (new to me) AOD behind a carburated 289, and I get no upshifts.  I've gone through all manner of adjustments to the TV cable (looser, tighter, more motion ratio, less motion ratio) and the affect is the same.  I don't think the TV cable is doing anything.

I think it might be starting in second, but I can run up to redline and it never shifts.  If I lift a bit, I think it barely gets into the next gear, but not with any firmness, if I get back on the throttle it goes back where it was.

Other things it does:
No compression braking
If I rev it up in Park or neutral, it starts to run against a load, but doesn't try to make the car move.

I'm going to drop the valve body tonight and look for sticky things, but I'm kinda bewildered on this one.  Any help out there?

Anyhow,  I've lurked for a little while here, this is my first post, thanks folks and hope you had a better weekend than I did.
-Richard