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Are there any US based flat tappet hydraulic manufacturers left?
It sounds like most of these failures are from off-shore companies, that sell through Summit, other online outlets. And mainly the failures seem to be via bad machining, wrong crown angle etc. Not hardness failures.

Do any of you still do this? I recently bought some reman calipers from Napa, Adaptive One brand for my '99 S10, would have preferred to rebuild the old ones but could not find a kit.. Am leary of reman parts. Price wasn't bad, just don't really trust them.

Was going to rebuild front brakes on my truck, just replaced with reman calipers from Napa instead, as there are no rebuild kits anymore. Looking at same situation in rear. 1999 S10..

Thanks for the diagrams, it is the 4.3L. Battery + is clean inside the boot at the battery terminal, the buss bar is clean. Voltage drop from battery + to buss bar studs is 0.12V.

There's no underhood fuse box on the '96, all the other voltage drops were 0.02 or below. There are 4 relays that hang from the firewall, 3 more in the glovebox, and a small fuse box on the left side of the dash. Plan on checking the ign switch connector next. Would like to catch it while it's not charging, right now it's working fine.

Dad's truck, chevy S10 4.3L. Reman alternator is 6yrs old, 65mo battery 2yrs old. He's been driving some pretty rough roads for the last month prior to having problems, but it doesn't act up then. It has problems on smooth roads, headlights dim, battery light flickers, volt gauge drops to 10-11V. Increasing the rpm does not move the needle at all. Let it sit and cool down, re-starts fine, same problems, still reading 10-11V, battery light flickers, drive 100 feet and everything goes back to normal and stays that way, gauge at 14+ volts, no battery light. The first time I found the cables a little loose at the battery, tightened down, was fine for 2 weeks before it happened again. I'm leaning towards another bad connection somewhere, printed out Wayne's voltage drop test. Has anyone had alternators fail intermittently? I thought they generally worked or did not. Since it's working again having it tested probably won't show anything?

thanks

john

$1.89 for 85 octane if you pay cash, northern Colorado.

Thanks guys, Will go with semi-metallic. Napa doesn't carry them anymore for my truck, O'Reilly still sells them. I hear they are phasing them out due to environmental issues, mainly zinc/copper that they claim gets into stormwater run-off from the roads.

Trying to decide which to go with, main concern is rotor wear. I see differing opinions on the internet, was wondering what your personal experiences have been? I put new rotors on my truck with ceramic pads and after 3 years, ~40k miles, the rotors are too thin to have turned. Have not seen that kind of wear with semi-metallic pads.

thanks-

edit- The rotors were generic parts store Chinese issue, but for all I know buying them from dealership would have been the same quality at 2x the price.

I have 197K on my 1999 S10 daily driver. Been mostly happy with it, main issues leaking external oil lines and leaking lower intake gaskets on the 4.3L. A friend bought a Ford Escape, as far as new suv's go it seems pretty reliable so far.

Thanks, emissions testing is required here, so this probably won't pass.

Looking at a 1974 Chevy Nova that has all the original smog equipment removed. It passes the sniffer test at the exhaust end according to owner. Was wondering about how strict they are about visually checking for original smog equip if I have to get it inspected. Been a long time since having an older car tested. In Colorado.

john

Drinking  

*. Thanks.

I'm getting drunk, and contemplating my fate on the tree of woe. Well that, and trying to decide what to do with my bastard transmission situation.