Messages

Jeff,
I have to replace the housing. Must be the magnet side is not working properly. No resistance coming thru the wires. Looks like part tomorrow and finish this job Saturday morning. I'll give you a shout if I get stumped.
Thanks again,
Don

No problemo I'll keep a eye on the e-mail
Jeff

You're on the right track Don
These steps are copied right out of GM service info
Momentarily rotate the ignition key to the CRANK position (Do NOT start the vehicle), then release it to the RUN position (Do NOT key OFF in the process).
Wait 10 minutes. Observe the SECURITY indicator. Refer to the following list for the appropriate responses:
  -  If the passlock™ sensor was replaced the SECURITY indicator will flash for the 10 minutes duration.  

  -  If the EVO/passlock™ module was replaced, the SECURITY indicator will flash for a few seconds and then remain ON for the remainder of the 10 minutes duration.  

  -  If the VCM/PCM was replaced with a new programmed VCM/PCM and connected to the vehicle for the first time, the vehicle will start and this procedure may not be necessary.  

  -  If the replacement VCM/PCM was connected to any vehicle at any other time, even momentarily, the SECURITY indicator will flash for a few seconds and then remain ON for the 10 minutes duration.  

The SECURITY indicator will transition from flashing to ON briefly to OFF after 10 minutes if remaining in the ignition ON position.
Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position and wait for 10 seconds.
Repeat steps 3-6 two more times. The new security code is ready to be communicated among the Passlock sensor, EVO/Passlock module and VCM/PCM. The new password is learned on the next ignition lock cylinder cycle from OFF to CRANK to ON (start attempt).
basically do it 3 times and you should be set
hope this helps and if you need anymore help let me know
Jeff

Don If you can't turn the cylinder or it's jammed you'll have to change the cylinder and the upper column bowl
There's 2 antitheft bolts that attach that upper bowl to the column
You'll have to die grind or drill the head of the bolt off and you get new ones with the new assembly
I've tried to remove cylinders at the dealer by drilling them out and picking away at them but the first nick you put in that bowl will prevent a new cylinder from working
Jeff

Just me but exactly how do you run hi/lo beams and turn signals and markers with 4 wires?
I guess if you ground everything through headlight assembly and the bracket to the frame.
I'll have to look closer at my 34 commercial lights  they have 7 wires out the bottom
Jeff

How do you go about finding a District/Regional service Rep for say GM??

I know thats not what they are called but you can get a hold of them if you cant get satisfactory service out of a local dealer.  Im gettin hosed!!!

Thanks

The only way you'll get to one will be through your dealer or through the customer complaint centres 1 800 #
If you have bad blood with the dealer you'll be best to call
i spose you could stalk one also
Jeff

I used their windshield frame and all the misc. pieces
no complaints quality is above average
Jeff

delete as required
Jeff

Oiler, the spacer is a part I ordered from Mcmaster Carr. It was about a .1" too large on od and .010" too small on id. My column is 1.75" diameter. This was a locking collar. My rod is 2.5 on the rod end also.

Thanks for the tip I never would have come up with that.I checked the website and found one that'll work perfectly
Thanks again
Jeff

Not much. Wish I had a better story to amuse everybody. Clearance on the steering shaft and the column drop. Not happy with the bracket but haven't had a better idea yet.

Just wondering what diameter your column is and what did you use for a spacer in the con-rod big end
I've got a rod out of John Forces funny car but it's the 2.5 inch big end and the column is 2 so I need a 1/4 inch spacer which looks to be about the size you have
looks good what you've done
Jeff

A friend of mine has a 150K downpayment on a supersnake
Just last week those pricks called and asked for another 75K
Good thing he couldn't come up with the dough.
How low can you get when you know you're going *-up and you are still soliciting for money.
By the way I broke the news to him after I read it on the net.
Not a happy moment
Jeff

Thanks Tony

I was going to PM you Tony but I thought others might benefit from this.
I've finished the Ramjet install in a 93 GMC and all has went well.
The engine runs good and looks better.
The only issue I've had has been getting a proper tach signal to the original computer for shifting the 4L60E.
I got around that with the use of a diode but that's not the problem.
Both the owner and I think that the trans and engine could benefit from a more aggresive shift pattern and a earlier 4-3 and 3-2 downshift.
Have you had any experience with the stand alone controllers that some companies offer for the 4L60E?
They say they are fully compatible and adjustable but I've never really paid much attention to them.
Also what would be the best one to get, I have seen theat GM Performance makes one also.
Anyone that has any experience good bad or otherwise I'd like to hear it.
Thanks all
Jeff

Monday I dropped the pan off the engine. I gave it a complete visual inspection, checking for any metal in the pan etc. I rolled it over and inspected all the cylinder bores and found no scuffing in any of them. Everything looks great.  
I did notice one thing. I can move the oil pump shaft up and down about 3/16 to 1/4 inch. By doing this I get this metallic noise, that would closely mirror the rattle I can hear.  The shaft is the one with the steel bushing pinned to it.
I wonder, could this be the culprit? I would assume that under load this shouldn't move, but could it?
I am having a hard time convincing myself of the wrist pin rattle. It just doesn't sound like a steel to aluminum sound to me.
I can make this rattle by revving the engine in park and it starts at 2000rpm at cruise and goes away about 3000.

Ok gang have at it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Don

I chased a rattle like that on a big block for a while
I was sure it was a fuel pump rattle or a wristpin
replaced the fuel pump and even pulled the engine and disassembled
Turned out I had 2 worn valve guides on #2 and 4 cylinders
Could'nt really tell until I disassembled the heads
Don't know if you've eliminated heads or not
Thought I'd let you know
Jeff

Has anybody used these type of hoses http://www.coolflex.com/  ?
I've got this Ramjet installed and finished but the upper rad hose has to curve behind the altenator and the forward to the rad.
I could use 2 and join them but I've seen these Cool Flex hoses and I'm curious as the whether they are any good
Thanks for any help
Jeff

Just my opinion but Rayvyn came up with a * good idea