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I've done some homework.  Got 60 of the newer type, thick street rodders in a copier paper carton.  Seemed sturdy enough. Weighed 52 pounds and UPS will send it from Phoenix to Wichita for $27.08
The other mags are thinner so more will fit in.  I seem to have a lot of Rod Action mags also.  All total will be about 4-5 of the copier cartons,  so about $100 to $130 or so.  This is all an estimate as I'm just weighing with a bathroom scale. Will keep packing if this is OK.  

They are mostly rod action and street rodder and only back to about 1970.  There are a few Hot Rod and car craft but not many.  There is also some old hemmings and some of tex smiths Gazette and some periodicals etc.
They're free but I think you won't like the cost of shipping to Wichita.

Did some house cleaning in my shop and have decided to get rid of years of rod magazines.  Street rodder and rod action back to the early 70's and a few others.
There are 6 or 7 rubbermaid boxes, so too heavy to ship.  Will deliver to anyone in the Phoenix area.
Free to good home, like a puppy.

You make it look easy.  Show us the next step, the bead rolling.

Years ago I worked with an old Russian toolmaker and he very quietly taught me to heat the inner steel part only and then quickly quench it with a lot of water.  Then wait an hour or so till all cooled off.
I had a 38 Ford 1 ton I beam and was trying to get the wishbone to axle bolts  out.  I had heated the wishbome and axle 3-4 times and beat on it while hot with no success.
He smacked it just once with a 2 pound hammer and the bolt clattered across the floor.  He didn't say a word to me, just put the tools away.

Amazing what this guy can do........yes I want to see this too.  What gauge are you starting with and is it just ordinary cold rolled or aluminum killed or ? ........or aluminum ?

Not really OT as they are different and have some hot rod ideas.
A buddy just bought a big cabin cruiser,2006 vintage, and since it was twin screws I was keen to see what it had.  Mercruiser and so I expected an LS2 or LS6,  but no it had the old std small block chevy ?? Actually two of them and yes one of them ran backwards.  The decals on the valve covers said 6.2 liter.........which is about 380 cubic inches. What gives  Or is this our 383 small block?  Factory ? It was fuel injected of course and looked a little like the LT1 of the mid 90's.  Is this the original RAM JET or it's descendent ?  Very cool looking injection system.  Any one know if they made them closed loop which would be a good street setup.  Mass air flow ? I'd grab a computer if that was the case.
I think he said they were 380 ponies each.  They had wet exhaust but did not use the lake water for cooling.  Each engine had it's own sealed system, aluminum radiator and electric fans.  I assume this was to get around the salt water corrosion problem,  but then why not use the later LS2 thru LS6.  They are proven tough by now aren't they ?
A lot of trick wiring and mounting brackets...........is there a junk yard for boats ?

And I have a pickup solid shaft with rag joint under the bench.  No charge and shipping from AZ will be cheap. Want it ?

Yeh, really nice work.....and how do you keep your shop so clean ??

When you see the new type,  you won't want to use the ones that I sent. Here is a pic of the 48  plus 8 contact version.  The recp has not yet been asembled.  Actually these will be going on the new Boeing 787.

EFI .....nice, will make that old wagon into a nice smoooooth street performer.  Is it an aftermarket or factory computor ??
In the mil spec connectors there are no 18 gauge contacts so we'll need to use a 16 gauge contact for the 18 gauge wires.
It still leaves me too many choices of connectors to make a pick now.  You have to decide what wires (gauges)  will be used.
For example I have a connector code type 17-99  which has 2 #16 gauge  contacts and 21  #20 gauge contacts.  That might work  and yet there is another choice......go to one large mil spec connector to do all the wires.  That could be code type 25-4  which has 8 #16 gauge contacts and 48 #20 gauge contacts.  You could run a max of 56 wires  as long as there are no more than 8 of the 16 and 18 gauge wires.  This connector is 2  1/2  to 3 inches in dia,  can you fit that ??  If it's close then I can send some dimensions.  Do you prefer shiny nickel plated housings  or the typical olive drab ones as on my pics ?

Enjenjo wrote:
I received the connectors, very nice parts. I am thinking of using them to connect a computer on my Buick, I am thinking about mounting the computer under the hood, these will allow me to mount it in a hardened box, to keep moisture out of it.

What computor are you planning on using Carb or EFI  ?

Here are some more modern connectors that make a much better water seal.  These have been on my 38 Ford for 24 yrs and totally exposed to the AZ sun and engine heat.  They have bigger contacts for 12 awg wire so can carry 25 amps at 125 C.  I used three sets,  one is for all the front sheetmetal,  one for all the engine pcs and one that goes to the truck rear area, lights, fuel pump etc.  Where there is no contact it just is blank as the contacts are crimped to the wire and then snapped in place.  Only use as many as needed.
To pull the engine or front sheet metal it is just one connector to uncouple and all wires are unhooked. Clean !
Will get this type for Enjenjo with smaller contacts for the right number of wires.  How many ?

Enjenjo
You don't want to use those connectors for your computor box.  Too big and clunky and they are for 16 gauge wire.  Most computors are 20 or 22 gauge wire.  Post / tell me the wire size and how many wires roughly and I'll get you a better choice.  I'll make sure there are a few extra contacts as spares.  You can use the ones you have on another project.
I have some pics of the newer type connectors and will post tonight hopefully.
Buying this type of mil spec connector can be a real headache and frustrating........you could end up with a connector and no contacts and getting the right type and size contacts is confusing.  Post some detail on what you want to do with it and what signals and maybe we can set up some stds and I can advise where to get them.  They can be $40 each or $180 each and remember, you buy the plug and receptacle separately.  Contacts may also be separate.......crimp tool .....solder termination etc.

Thanks guys,  I'll try the pick a part.