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We bought a 20 ft, 8 1/2 wide enclosed trailer for our 38 Master Deluxe.the car is 14 1/2 ft long. I'm using a 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 4x4 V8 to tow with. Curb weight on the trailer is 3160. Weight of the car is no more than 3000. I'm putting the car pretty close to center ( front to back ) in the trailer. When I hook up the trailer to the truck, I get a bit of dive with the front of the trailer and the rear of the truck. I am considering a weight distribution hitch ( anywhere from $130 to $300+ ) OR I just thought of this today..if I load the car further toward the back of the trailer, will this "fix" the dive problem and make the trailer and truck stable enough to not have issues with sway?? Any advice will be helpful! Thanks

Ok, the hub/disk brake is from a Hiedts Independent front suspension model # BX-212. The knurl diameter is 0.553. As far as numbers on the head of the stud, it looks like its 1 or T 05 and under that is a B with a U under it. The shoulder fits up into the hub and the threads sit outside the hub after that.

Ok, after a LOT of years and I won't even mention $'s, our 38 Chevy is finally done. But, (there's always a but isn't there??) now I'm taking care of some minor issues. My front wheel studs are too short. Sounds simple enough right? Just get longer studs and cut to fit.... The front disk brakes are Wilwood. The original stud has a 0.628 tall shoulder on it between the knurl and the threads. Total length of the stud is 1.464 inch long. I'm looking for a 2 inch long stud. Any ideas on where to find studs like these? I've checked Dormans, Summit, ARP.... Or is there a way to create the shoulder on a normal style stud??

Our 38 Chevy is almost finished and it's time to get an appraisal for insurance. My question is, does anybody know where the vin number would be on a 38 Chevy Master Deluxe 4 door. I have replaced ALL the running gear on this car so any tags on the motor or trans are gone. Does anybody know if the number was stamped anywhere...or was it just on tags??

It can crack like that if it is installed way too tight.

Too tight??  What would make it too tight? And how could it be installed "looser"?

Guys, need some information. I had a glass guy install a V-bent windshield into a 1938 Chevy. Windshield and rubber molding came from Chevys of the 40's. According to the glass guy, I wasn't there for the whole install, he had to take it back to his shop a couple times to grind/sand the edge a bit to get it to fit. He gets it in and then OVER NIGHT, the glass cracks right in the center from bottom to top. Have any of you had any experience installing this type of windshield and do you know of any tricks or tips before I have it tried again?

Ok guys...I'm building (with help) a 38 Chevy FOUR door. I want to get power to my rear door windows and the power bear claw latch to open the door.

Id like to use a wire loom or something similar however, the back doors on the 38 open to a full 90 degrees to the body.

The edge of the door is next to the door jam.

I'm not a fan of the contacts that go between the door and the jam cause then nothing in the door works when the door is open.

Anybody found another way to deal with this issue???[/img]

If anybody is interested, I am finally getting rid of some left-over parts from my 38 Chevrolet Master Deluxe. Outside door handles, window cranks, dash trim pieces, outside trim pieces....etc. I currently have a set of trunk hinges on Ebay under colorobert. Remember, nothing in life is free however it is fair and negotiable.

Was 1.90 this morning on the way to work and they are reporting as low as 1.75 in town

It may help to swap nuts.

Doesn't sound like it would help, but I've done it from side to side to get the wheel bearings where I wanted.

You can also grind some off the bottom of the nut.
A different length spacer is probably best.

Any chance there's an obstruction in the cotter pin hole or the notch in the castellated nut?

If things are close you could file the notch in the nut a touch deeper.

How about the tapered hole where the ball joint goes.
Anything in there that would stop the tapered pin from sliding home?
Same deal on the pin, are they all the same diameter, taper?

Ok, I've checked the bottom holes in both spindles and the hole in the drivers side IS smaller than the hole in the passenger side. I believe that is my problem. So, do I just run it by my local machine shop and have them drill the hole out bigger, OR can I just use a thinner spacer on that side. Also, if I use a thinner spacer will it affect the geometry of the front end when everything is said and done?

It may help to swap nuts.

Doesn't sound like it would help, but I've done it from side to side to get the wheel bearings where I wanted.

You can also grind some off the bottom of the nut.
A different length spacer is probably best.

Any chance there's an obstruction in the cotter pin hole or the notch in the castellated nut?

If things are close you could file the notch in the nut a touch deeper.

How about the tapered hole where the ball joint goes.
Anything in there that would stop the tapered pin from sliding home?
Same deal on the pin, are they all the same diameter, taper?

Ok, I've checked the bottom holes in both spindles and the hole in the drivers side IS smaller than the hole in the passenger side. I believe that is my problem. So, do I just run it by my local machine shop and have them drill the hole out bigger, OR can I just use a thinner spacer on that side. Also, if I use a thinner spacer will it affect the geometry of the front end when everything is said and done?

Dont I feel better!!!  

Guys....need some advice from the experts. On my 38 chevy I have the heidts superide IFS. The pins on the ball joints on passenger side and the top pin on the ball joint on the drivers side bolt down into position without any problem. I'm able to get the cotter pin through the holes in the pins without any trouble. HOWEVER, the lower pin on the drivers side WILL NOT tighten down far enough to get the cotter pin in. Which would be the best way to proceed with this? Do I take it to my local hotrod shop and have him press it on and hope it doesn't do any damage? Should I take some kind of grinder and gently grind down the sides of the pin on the ball joint? Is there something I can use to increase the size of the hole in the spindle. Going back to heidts is not a option cause I got the whole setup locally here maybe 4 years ago. And yes, the spacers on the lower ball joints belong there.
Thanks for the help!!!!!

Wait...we get banned if we live in NM? Im changing my profile right now!!!!  

A happy and safe 4th of July to ALL the rodders here. :-)