Wheel Stud

Started by RAJ484, March 10, 2012, 10:36:59 AM

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RAJ484

Ok, after a LOT of years and I won't even mention $'s, our 38 Chevy is finally done. But, (there's always a but isn't there??) now I'm taking care of some minor issues. My front wheel studs are too short. Sounds simple enough right? Just get longer studs and cut to fit.... The front disk brakes are Wilwood. The original stud has a 0.628 tall shoulder on it between the knurl and the threads. Total length of the stud is 1.464 inch long. I'm looking for a 2 inch long stud. Any ideas on where to find studs like these? I've checked Dormans, Summit, ARP.... Or is there a way to create the shoulder on a normal style stud??
It drove into my garage...it DID drive back out!!!

wayne petty

are there any numbers on the head of that stud...

what was the original application for the HUB you used.???

what is the diameter of the knurl....

its no use looking for a longer stud if it does NOT fit in the hole tight..

this is probably going to be the best place to find them...

http://www.whtknight.com/cgi-bin/item.cfm?subcat=166

again check the knurl diameter..

select a PART number.. contact your local tire shop as white knight used to ONLY sell to dealers... i have not checked on this policy lately..

you may also want to examine the various lug nuts to match..


just thinking about this... if you need a shoulder for the rotor hat to center on.. instead of the hub center..

you might be able if you get studs with a low knurled area..  to pick up something like allen nuts.. thread them on a stud and grind them to the proper OD on a lathe.. then individually machine them to the proper shape..  

warning.. allen nuts are not fully threaded..  they are counter bored and have a double hex socket shape in the knurled end..  so you can tighten them.. the knurl lets you slip them in a hole..

you could also grind the outside down on some grade 8 nuts.. to use as alignment shoulders on your wheel studs..

all depends if you have access to a lathe or friends who do..


wait..;. what the heck is an allen nut... a socket head NUT...

http://www.reidsupply.com/sku/HAN-7040/

RAJ484

Ok, the hub/disk brake is from a Hiedts Independent front suspension model # BX-212. The knurl diameter is 0.553. As far as numbers on the head of the stud, it looks like its 1 or T 05 and under that is a B with a U under it. The shoulder fits up into the hub and the threads sit outside the hub after that.
It drove into my garage...it DID drive back out!!!

wayne petty

looks like its also a dorman number

Dorman/Wheel Stud
in individual bags Part Number: 610-105.1
wheeltite motormite  carded Number: 98035
Part Number:   610-105.1
Type:    Serrated stud
Thread Size:    7/16"-20
knurl Size:    0.558"
Thread Length:    1-17/32"
Seat Angle:    21/32"

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/drm/610-105.1/image/4/

but you want a LONGER version..  

the application is a 1969 tempest /GTO front brake rotor with a ONE piece hub... but not most 70s..

more to come....

wayne petty

take a LOOK at the 962 from white knight...

#962... 7/16-20.  

2-7/8 long under the head..

.560 knurl diameter...

here is the image...

http://www.whtknight.com/PartPics/9621.jpg

that is 0.002 larger than your knurl diameter.. so it will PROBABLY fit..

RRT members...   did i do these calculations correctly..

i kinda worry that if the wheel is not hub piloted... that the wheel studs might try to wobble in the holes as they are not going to reach all the way through...  but i don't think this is going to be the case...  but i would like your thoughts....


wayne...

continuing..


please..  install these with a press with a collared tool to protect the stud threads...  if you don't have a press..

i have usually used a short stack of hardened washers.. greased.. with a NEW conventional lug nut turned upside down.. so the flat side is against the washers.  grease the stud threads also.. . tapered side out..   this can be used to pull the new stud into the hub without raising a ridge around the face of the mounting flange...

hardened washers will not deform..  the top one might be damaged.. the stack acts like a thrust bearing. when greased..


i have a HUGE trick for warped HUB FACES

knock the studs all out..  chunk it up on the rotor lathe.. take off the high spots and just barely anything on the rest of the face..


some pictures of various 5514 rotors..
looks like these are also the conversion for shoe box chevy rotors...
and come directional and drilled..

http://www.performanceonline.com/Cross-Drilled-and-Gas-Slotted-Front-Disc-Brake-Conversion-Rotors-Raybestos-5514-SET-19708/

wayne petty

i am sorry.. you just ask for longer studs...

now.. if you click on that last link.. you will probably want new rotors also..   i think i want a set to make into clocks for the wall...

i will do my best not to do this to you again..

the rotors you have .. seem to have a dual bolt  pattern.. so the drilled rotors i linked. may NOT be an actual interchange...

i wonder.. if there is a way to create some device that rides on the back of the rotor.. so the holes drilled through play the stereo like a player piano roll..

or like the grooved road that honda carved that played the william tell overture.   that happened to be right in front of somebodys house..  so all day and night they got wroop.. wroop wroop  didi didi woop woop woop...