Messages

I agree with not using it for a blend or skim coat.  I'm thinking more about pin holes in a welded seam such as a lower fender or quarterpanel.  If anyone has a name of a better or more reasonable priced filler.  also could this filler be used for more advanced body work in places where lead was normally used such as hood peaks or filling trim holes?

Dave

Heah guy's,

I had a brainstorm today.  I was wondering  if JB weld or some other metal boding agent could be used as body filler.  lead is a liquid metal that hardens so is JB weld.  The difference one uses cooling and one uses a chemical reaction.  That is where my concern is.  WIll the chemicals in JB weld allow primer to bind to it?  I seams a little to simple for no one else to have tried it.  let's hear some opinions!

Dave

The good thing is that I have a '69 fury that is a hardtop to get parts from and refer to. The only problem is that it's a four door.   I would like to talk to someone who has done the conversion.  

That's a good point about the rear windows.  I knew would have to modify doors and the body to move the windows closer.  

I was also wondering about the top edge.  Do you just remold the old door contact point with weth stripping or what?  

Thanks,

Dave

I would like to make it a hardtop when I chop it but if I cann't I might try to slant the pillars I definitely do not want to put sealed glass like a lot of people do.

Dave

I saw the forward slanted posts and was confused.   Are your rear window guides angled?

Dave

How much is you top chopped?  Was it hard to slant the b pillars and keep the roll down rear windows?  I'm planning a chop on my '50 chev beginning of next year and want to keep the rear roll down windows.  I've also thought about a hardtop style chop also but there is something about those forward slanted b pillars.

Thnx
Dave

Hello,

More questions here on the '50.  I plan on choppin the top after the running gear is set. I would like to put set it up for hardtop windows.  I have windows from a hadtop cat to get the window to window gasket, but how hard is the rest like modifyind doors and back side window.  
I figure I will have move the channels but how hard is it to modify roof to accept the windows.  I sure this will make more sense once I cut the top I just want plan.  Also I travel alot for work so I spend more time thinkin than I do wrenchin.  Thinkin has gotten me over my head more than once but atleast this time I have a support team

Thanks,

Dave

I'ts a catch 22.  I guess I'll call coker with what I think I want and find out what the tire heigth is and figure out final backspacing later.

Thanks,
Dave

Thanks fro the info.  I also need to get the wheels and tires i will running also correct?

Dave

I'm Polish.  I do everything the hard.  I will learn alot and also plan the next build more carefully.

I've decided to keep the stock frame after lot's of good advice from all of you.  I do still want to use the S10 front clip since I have it.  

I saw an old post about Z'ing the front end.  I realize I have ALOT of engine going into the front end.  I'll have to watch the hood clearance.  Is this doable?  It would save money on lowering the front.  Also I would have the travel I want.  

Also I'm already looking at running a front mount electric fan to help with the lack of room.  I am also looking at cutting back those firewall ribs.  I was going to weld some plate or an X brace || with the firewall and then trim the ribs back.  Is this required?  I'd love to shed some weight and plate steel is not the way.

I have also decided to hold off on the vette rear and maybe run the dana that's in the fury.  The width should work and I can just shorten the fury driveshaft saving more money.    

I realize that this is a rather odd build but it's the parts I have and It will defintely raise an eyebrow or too when people see mopar on the 383 in my chev.

Thank's
Dave

slick 50 and 48 burb If you guys come down to the columbia area give me a call 803-315-7771 or e-mail me ( dave@hermesmedical.com ).  I should be at fat boys next time.  As far as the PeeDee street rodders I don't know any one from there.  This is my first build.  I restored/customized a '65 vert beetle.  I've made a pretty good looking potiac go fast.  But this is my first actual build.   I looking forward to learning alot about metal fab, suspension, and body work.

I also look forward to meeting alot new people.   If anyone in the area needs a hand I up for it.  Anything I do to help I'll do.  I've the best and cheapest way to learn is to help.

Dave

Heah everyone.   I'm new the board and I'm wondering who's in my area.  I'm Columbia, SC.  Is anyone in the area?  I'm looking for fellow rodders.

Dave

I appreciate the input.  I'm gonna pull frames out and do some measurments.  It sounds like the front clip only is the way to go.  Is there anything I can do to whle remounting the front to lower it while I'm at it without loosing any strength?  

My main concerb with the C4 IRS is track width.  I plan on running steel wheels.  I'll prbably need to run 17's in the rear due to disk diameter.  I'm running skirts so hopefully you won't see much of the rear tire.  I plan on running www on 15's with fiesta caps on the front.   I'm not sure if I can get required backspacing on 17x10 steel rims for the rear.  Does anyone know the trach width of a 90's C4 rear?  

While I have a few pre tri-5 chevy guys here.  Where can I find patch panels for the lower front rear fenders.  I need to patch the area's in front the rear wheel well and behind the front.  

Thanks

Dave

Dave

Heah everyone,

I've been saving up and gathering pieces for my next project.  I have a '50 chevy 2dr deluxe.  This is a complete car.  I also have a '95 s10 longbed frame so that I can have better IFS, disc brakes and power steering.  for an engine I have a mopar 383 and a 727 tranny (looking for a A833).   I am planning on using a C4 corvette IRS that I found bu have not purchased yet.  I do realize that this is a wide rear-end.   Is it too wide?  I've heard that narrowing these IRS's will have neg effects on handling.  We are planning on putting the body on the S10 frame I the contours are close.  If not we will mount the S10 front to the chevy :?: It is 1 inch narrower and the wheelbase is within a 1/2 inch.  I figured we will need to fab body and engine mounts.  

On the hotrod mag post the only replies I recieved said to graft the s10 front to the cheyy frame.   They were heavily against using the later frame.  What's your opinion or advice.  Also I could you help with the corvette rear if anyone has any ideas.

I have done no mods to the car yet.  I will be selling the complete frame with engine (80,000 miles) that will turn over but hasn't been driven since '88.  If anyone is interested I let me know.  I'm in columbia SC.

Am I getting in over my head?  Is this the hard route?  Please help with any shortcuts.  

Sorry for the novel but I want to preplan as much as possible.  In past projects I have learned that redoin costs 10 times more than doin it right the first time.

Thank's

Dave