Ford Ranger Brake proportioning Block

Started by Topsterguy, August 05, 2008, 12:20:53 AM

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Topsterguy

I'm doing the brakes in my '40 pickup and am thinking of using one of those brass Ranger brake proportioning blocks. The lines from the M/C go into it, then a line goes to each wheel cylinder. A couple of guys say they work fine, but I'm wondering if using it is worthwhile, or if I should just not bother, or use after market stuff. I'm kind of a believer in factory stuff cuz it's been proven and tested etc!  Ideas / thoughts?
"If a man is alone in the forest and speaks, and there\'s no woman around, is he still wrong?"

enjenjo

I've used them in the past, seem to work good. My combo valves of choice is S10 pickup, but the ranger is similar in proportion to the S10. It matches the weight distribution, and tire bias of most street rods.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

timkins

What year Ranger is that proportioning valve off of ? I bought one from MP Brakes and I am not really satisfied with the way it hooks up.

enjenjo

Most any year in the 80s. I like the S10 valve because it only has one line for the front, and one for the rear. The Ranger has two lines for the front, and one for the rear.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

phat46

Quote from: "enjenjo"Most any year in the 80s. I like the S10 valve because it only has one line for the front, and one for the rear. The Ranger has two lines for the front, and one for the rear.

Frank, do you get those at a junkyard or buy them new? If new, what do you specify when buying one?

Topsterguy

Quote from: "phat46"
Quote from: "enjenjo"Most any year in the 80s. I like the S10 valve because it only has one line for the front, and one for the rear. The Ranger has two lines for the front, and one for the rear.

Frank, do you get those at a junkyard or buy them new? If new, what do you specify when buying one?

Yeah I was wondering that too - should it be bought new or would one from a wrecker be okay? There's a guy here with a brand new one and he wants $40 for it.
"If a man is alone in the forest and speaks, and there\'s no woman around, is he still wrong?"

enjenjo

$40 for a new one is a good price. MPB has them for $80. I usually get them at the salvage yard, I just look for one that is fairly clean, and buy that one. so far, no bad ones.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

UGLY OLDS

I used the block from an '87 Chev 2 wheel drive Astro Van in the Olds.. 11" disc with Chev calipers front & stock 10" Chevy rear drums.....Works great :!:  ( Besides...It was Free..... :idea: )



Bob..... :wink:
1940 Oldsmobile- The "Ugly Olds"
1931 Ford sedan- Retirement project

***** First Member of Team Smart*****

Topsterguy

Quote from: "enjenjo"$40 for a new one is a good price. MPB has them for $80. I usually get them at the salvage yard, I just look for one that is fairly clean, and buy that one. so far, no bad ones.

I just got back from the wreckers - mind boggling!  Any idea on the best year  etc to use - they had three boxes of them, all diferent years, and all diferent inlets / outlets. A lot of them had sensors. I only looked at the S-10 noes, I like the idea of one line to the front brakes. I'm using the stock 9" mustang front discs and an 8" granada rear.
"If a man is alone in the forest and speaks, and there\'s no woman around, is he still wrong?"

enjenjo

No Idea on the year. It's the first body style, 82 to 93 or so. There is one electrical connector on it, one terminal, it's for a brake defect light. Four lines into it.They are usually right under the master cylinder.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

Topsterguy

"If a man is alone in the forest and speaks, and there\'s no woman around, is he still wrong?"