Speaking of Gas

[Carnut]

Does anyone have any ideas on fixing or replacing the factory original
fuel tank selector valve on my 77 Chevy 1/2 ton Dual Tanks?

I've checked the pollack universal valve and it's just not acceptable to me.

I would need new switch and wiring to use it.

I've checked chevytalk.org and the 73 later truck and suv forums and it seems everyone is making due with the universal.

I gotta have an original equipment NOS or rebuilt, none on ebay either.

My valve leaks and lets tanks equalize, I don't like that.

Don't want to take it off and fiddle with it unless I have a replacement available.

Any suggestions or help?

[wayne petty]

6 port fuel selector valves that will directly fit your application are available almost everywhere....

i will look up a few part numbers...


3 fuel ports...
3 return ports..
a gm weatherpack connector with 4,5 or 6, wires on it... i forget....

About this product: at autozone....
Part Number:   FSV1
Weight:   0.674 lbs.
Note:    Universal
6 port motor driven; Use when return lines are not required; O.E.M. #12336290, U7000


About this product: at az
Part Number:   FSV2
Weight:   0.674 lbs.
Note:    Universal
6 port motor driven; use when return lines are required; O.E.M. #12336291, U7001


do verify what they look like in hand... as the picts are the same online...  under fuel delivery on their page...

http://www.autozone.com/R,APP1256850/vehicleId,1321704/initialAction,partProductDetail/store,5390/partType,01765/shopping/partProductDetail.htm

wow... i was all sure that i had done a good job... but... then you said that the universal valve will not work

many companys ... kem, standard, neihoff,  sell the original delco style valve in their packages...  

if you cannot still find one... i live in autoparts heaven... los angeles.. so i have access to every brand...

[Carnut]

Yes wayne that's the pollack brand universal valve available almost everywhere that would require me to put in new switch and add wire bundle to the valve.

I've had that one in my hands, not acceptable to me.

My valve uses one wire and 3 ports. I want an original replacement 77 Chevy  valve.

Sorry to be so picky, I can't believe everyone is doing the mod on their trucks to use that valve.

[wayne petty]

i see what you mean....

here is an image i grabbed of what your valve should look like...

jcwhitney is where i got it...  but the parts behind it are differtnt...if that is what it looks like...  the pic will help you...

i will continue looking for it...

edit

http://store.partsfortrucks.net/futasevanoam.html

3-Port - 8-psi maximum fule pressure - 3/8" i.d. fuel hose - Diesel or gas application - Recommended 1 amp fuse - North American
82-2240


i think i will also order one...  as that is another thing i need for the ford van....   yep they fit fords also....

[Carnut]

Yes Wayne that is pretty much like mine, darn if I didn't search JC Whitney and only found the other one.

Darned if that one ain't half the price of the universal one I keep seeing.

Thanks a bunch for finding that.

[wayne petty]

great... i really enjoy a great search.....

glad i could help....



wayne

[Carnut]

Ok, I just placeed an order, heh, heh, sure hope it is the one in the pic.

[enjenjo]

I can get you the Neihoff number for that valve too. It fits Fords, and I have retrofit several on Chevys.

[Crosley.In.AZ]

wayne........ is there a single wire , 6 port version?

All I find while I search  are the motor driven 6 port units.  A large connector plug is used on that type.

The Motorhome I am fooling with has a single wire 6 port valve.  3/8 hose and 5/16" return hose.

[wayne petty]

i would try to contact the parts for trucks link above....


or buy 2 of the valves...,.....

the only other option is to carefully pry open the krimp with a modified bottle cap opener...  church key???   and replace the damaged orings..

maybe cut the krimp off... with a cut off tool.. then figure out a clamp with a screw to reattach it...  simular to the dual flange muffler clamps...


there is something that many people dont realize...  

the single wire valve is single wire only from the double throw tripple throw switch...

these 6 port multi wire valves also if i recall correctly also switch the gauge wiring...  and do not need to have the wires all redone...

make a long cable and shrink wrap it... run the entire length of cable up to where the switch is...   then start repatching ....  

both tank wires and the wire to the cluster are there...

by the way... i would think that having dual gas gauges on a motorhome would be a great idea if there is room...

that way there is more or less wiring to run through the cable to the new style port valve...

i have even seen 6 port hand valves...   2- 3 port valves stacked....  i have only seen one of those... ... it almost looked like somebody made it..



there is a third............... OPTION.........

like duel tank ford truck... with fuel pumps in the tank.... ...

you want fuel from one tank...  turn on that pump....    the pressure cannot  flow into the non energized tank as there is a check valve on the output of each pump...

want to run the other tank... switch off the first one... and power up the second one...   (there have been instances of tank transfers do to bad check valves or leaky intake hoses.. remember .. the check valve is on the end of the pump... there is a rubber hose with clamps or plastic hose connecting the pump to the outlet... if those leak... the tank other tank can fill this leaker fast..  and if it is a small leak... you wont notice the drop of fuel pressure, except for the gas leaking out of the tank)

in the fuel pump catalog i have from carter fuel pumps.. they show a booster pump for big displacement motor homes that have vapor lock problems...    this uses check valves to by pass the pump... and to stop the boost pump from restricting the fuel flow when it is not operating... so check valves are available...   who ever does it this way might really want to make sure that there are really good filters in front of the pumps...

when  i helped big willie put dual pumps on his motorhome decades ago...  we ran into sediment problems holding open the bypass valves and the fuel pressure dropping to 0 even with both of them running..


oh..... and i like robbing 77 to 85 eldos and sevilles of the spin on cover, replaceable paper filter element fuel filter assys... held on with 3 bolts.. 13mm heads. usually... these have 3/8 nptf threads..with adaptors to 3/8 inverted flair lines... .. these use the same element as ford fuel pumps...   and a lot of other cars...  they are the only ones that come apart with a pair of pliers....  and will withstand 70 to 100  or so psi...


ac delco gf62...
here is a link to that image... but is comes with a bracket i think... i know it is on the cars....

http://198.208.187.182/internet/ViewPartImage.jsp?acdelcoPartNumber=GF62

this seems to be one with a bracket

http://198.208.187.182/internet/ViewPartImage.jsp?acdelcoPartNumber=gf62c

this is the element... available at every parts store in north america...
http://198.208.187.182/internet/ViewPartImage.jsp?acdelcoPartNumber=GF157


i have had them blow the cover off when the fuel rail got clogged... but it took a lot of pressure...  it was a shorts staining experiance.. having the filter cup blow off like a rocket... except straight down.. with a quart or so of gas...

[Crosley.In.AZ]

the MH I am working on has a Fram fuel filter near the engine, before the mechanical pump.  Fram filter design with replaceable  cartridge insert.

Switch in the dash  is a double throw unit to control tank gauges and each fuel pump activation. I have not had the time to investigate if there are relays for proper voltage to the pumps or all power runs through the switch.

Vapor lock was a problem with these years of MH with a carb'd engine , long climbs on hills or moderate inclines were issues too.  The return line system from the fuel pump did not seem to fully correct this problem from what I remember.

[Carnut]

Well, darn, ordered the valve from the site above partsfortrucks.net back when it was mentioned and have never received anything.

Enjenjo, you have a Niehoff part number? Anyone have a source for the item? I'm still looking.

Oh another sob story, I loaned my little Bro my 83 Blazer for awhile and apparenlty while he had it there was some electrical problem, because when he brought it back it had different alternator on it.

Wouldn't be so bad but I bought the Blazer brand new and it was very low mileage, like 40k on guage.

Anyhow it's a Silverado with power everthing and A/C and needs a 63/78 amp alternator and now has a 37/43 amp alt on it.

Apparently I have a 10si on it now and need a Delco 12SI model,
anyone have any leads to a good deal on one of those?

Darn can't believe my 'New' Blazer could be so hard to find parts for.

[enjenjo]

Niehoff 3 port is UN50 6 port single wire is UN51