Fan belt squealing

[Roadstar]

When I slow to a stop the fan belt will start to squeal like mad, I blip the throttle and it will go away, and then as soon as I start to take off it will start up again until I get the revs up.

It is friggen annoying WTF.

Little 283 chevy with stock pulleys and a small alt mounted low, only one belt.

Other than that the new Roadster is a dream to drive and I love it.

[Dave]

When I slow to a stop the fan belt will start to squeal like mad, I blip the throttle and it will go away, and then as soon as I start to take off it will start up again until I get the revs up.

It is friggen annoying WTF.

Little 283 chevy with stock pulleys and a small alt mounted low, only one belt.

Other than that the new Roadster is a dream to drive and I love it.

never had that happen Rudy. Try one of the newer style belts that have the ribs on the outside of the belt? Also maybe hit all the pulleys with a scotch brite pad in case they are too slippery..
Thats all I can think of..  Ive been having fun with mine too.
Dave

[enjenjo]

As a last resort, you can run dual belt pulleys, and two belts. How low is the alternator, you may not have enough contact on the crank pulley.

[rumrumm]

I tried everything to get the squealing to stop in my Safari van. Nothing worked. CarQuest warranteed the belt so they replaced it. I tried a slightly shorter belt. Then all the suggestions I had read on the various forums I frequent. The @#$%^&* thing still squealed. Then I took it to another mechanic for some exhaust work, and he told me a gatorback belt would solve the problem. It did. No squeals since.

[Mikej]

Do you have an aluminium pulley? The new belts aren't wide enough and bottom out in the pulley.( or they are to deep) Dave is correct on the type of belt to use. I tried NAPA, Gates and Carquest none of them worked. I got the ones with the cogs on the back from the local gas station but I don't know the brand name. No more embarassment. I think I still have the package in the car if you want a brand name.

[Crosley.In.AZ]

as that enjenjo guy points out... I went to dual belts on my Dodge Lancer with chev power.... stopped the squeal of the belt

The crank pulley may not have enough contact area on the belt to drive the w-pump and alt

[Inprimer]

as that enjenjo guy points out... I went to dual belts on my Dodge Lancer with chev power.... stopped the squeal of the belt

The crank pulley may not have enough contact area on the belt to drive the w-pump and alt

had same problem with a flatty, tried a new belt that was "fatter" stopped the squealing.

[wayne petty]

once the friction surfaces on V belts get glazed from heat they will always squeel...

it is a good idea to sand lightly the pulley grooves a little with some 220 to 400 sand paper...  just enough to add a little roughness.. the belts will smooth it off...

the belts also need to ride close to the top of the groove.    if they ride down at the bottom when they wear they will not have any friction on the sides....

belts are numbered by length and width...

0r

width and legnth...

a 7480 belt is 7/16 wide at the top and 48.0 inches long..

a 15480 is 15/32 wide and 48.0 inches long around the outer face..

a 48015 is just the numbers reversed..

if your belt sits too deep in the groove.. and you want to go wider... go one inch longer for each width wider... in most cases...


some times there are metric numbers on the belts... not inch... same thing applys...

micro groove belts are the same type of numbering system...

K030440 is a 3 groove K section 440 mm long on the outside...

a K062445 is a 6 groove K section 2445 mm long...

its all in understanding on what numbers are shown on the belt...

just for trivia... there are at least 3 differnt micro groove belt sections....

one really tiny one used on cloth dryers..
another medium one used on things around the shop like air compressors...
and  the K section used on automotive application...

when i worked at the machine shop .. there was a backlog of boring and honing... the owner stayed late... the drive belt broke on the CK-10 power hone... and we could not find the extra belt...   i counted the teeth and found that the vega belt with the j section grooves on the back of the cam drive belt was one tooth longer...

it fit like a dream...  i am so glad i don't work there any more... even though i love motors...


sorry to get off thread guys.,...

[Roadstar]

Ok some great advise here, I will have to take a look and see witch way to go.

The glazed theory may be something to look at. because it has cotton steadily worse and it dose it more when  I have been cruising for a while, like it gets hotter maybe.

Thanks again men.

[C9]

If I remember right, Dayton makes a cogged belt.

I have a squealing problem sometimes, but only on a quick accelleration or decelleration.
The single belt doesn't have enough wrap around the water pump pulley.

No problems cruising or idling though.

I went to dual pulleys on the 31 roadster and am looking forward to not having any squeal.


You need to watch it with some engines.
The 455 Buick triple sheave crank pulley has three different diameters of sheaves.
The inner one is pretty obvious, but the outer two are slightly different.
Enough so that if use it for a dual pulley setup you need to either get two different belts or adjust it for the bigger sheave and let the V-belt stretch until it stretches to match the smaller sheave . . . which may take a long time.

I said to heck with it and got an SBC aluminum crank and water pump pulley.
The water pump pulley is a bolt-on although it has a 3/16" spacer inside - between water pump hub and pulley - so as to bring the sheave forward for alignment.

Crank pulley is simply drilled for six 5/16" bolts in a pttern outside the SBCs three 3/8" bolt pattern.

Alternator pulley was easy, I run a Pinto 65 amp alternator and got a dual sheave aluminum pulley for it which was a bolt-on.

As you can see, the V-belt wrap on the water pump pulley isn't much.
I could have done it differently, but I have other uses for the space below the left head.

Both the 32 and 31 roadsters 455 Buick engines have the same alternator mount and belt setup - except for dual belts on the 31.

The one pic shows the stock crank pulley with the same parts number belts.

[C9]

For those who may be interested, here's a pic of a two bolt alternator mount setup.
It should work just fine, theres more than a few factory cars running around with a two bolt mount . . . plus of course the adjuster arm which adds to the stabilizing effect.



It's made from 1"OD solid aluminum drilled on center and the strap is 1/4" x 1" aluminum.


The three bolt mount shown above is very solid and the 3/8" round adjuster bracket doesn't allow vibration.
48,000 miles and 14 years on the 32 and no probs....

[CQQL33]

For a quick fix, I used SOAP !!!    With the engine running, put the bar of soap on the face of the belt in question.    Allow a small amount of the soap to rub onto the belt.   I have used this in the past for a quick fix to the noise of the belts.    Sometimes it will last for a long time and sometimes not.    The true fix is to get the proper size (width) belt.   Try it, it may work for you.

[Dave]

For those who may be interested, here's a pic of a two bolt alternator mount setup.
It should work just fine, theres more than a few factory cars running around with a two bolt mount . . . plus of course the adjuster arm which adds to the stabilizing effect.



It's made from 1"OD solid aluminum drilled on center and the strap is 1/4" x 1" aluminum.


The three bolt mount shown above is very solid and the 3/8" round adjuster bracket doesn't allow vibration.
48,000 miles and 14 years on the 32 and no probs....

Jay that belt is the one i was talking about.. I got one at either advance or auto zone and it worked fine.
Dave

[enjenjo]

I believe those belts are Dayco performance belts. I believe they call them Top Cog series.

[Roadstar]

Update.... It was loose :oops:

But consider the invaluable tech in this thread