Wheel Hop

[jimcaf]

On my 53 ford stock leaf rear end i just put 2 inch lower blocks now iv got serious wheel hop,,if i were to make up 2 say 1 inch bars with hiems and bracket it from the top or the bottom of the rear diff to the frame will that fix it?,,,thanks jim

[phat rat]

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If you have some heavy flat stock 3/8 or better just make some clamps and try that first. That way you have nothing hanging down to catch. I had to do this with my cpe. Yes I have 2' lowering blocks on it. Chassis Engineering low ride springs didn't get me down to where I wanted to be. Once I clamped the springs it was fine and it only took 1 clamp per side.

[jimcaf]

phat rat,,I may give that a shot but Id prefer to connect to the diff because of the leverage its got now with the blocks in there just not sure if itll work with a sort of a 2 link,,,thanks jim

[phat rat]

The springs in mine were new when I built the car.  I'm running enough motor to test the way I did it, 425hp 454 HO. Are your springs the originals? That might make a difference also, older, weaker springs.

[enjenjo]

What you have innmind is basically the old Traction Master setup. You might look at Caltracks, they bind less.  http://www.calvertracing.com/caltracs.html

[1FATGMC]

What you have innmind is basically the old Traction Master setup. You might look at Caltracks, they bind less.  http://www.calvertracing.com/caltracs.html

I've run Caltracs for a number of years now and love them.  They aren't cheap, but they are heavy duty and you won't even know they are there, but no more spring wrap.  I bent two drive shafts that would hit a frame member when the springs would wrap under hard acceleration.  That is gone and so is buying new drive-shafts.  I've seen home brewed caltracs that I just didn't think were up to the job.  If you buy quality heims and such as used in the caltracs you will be up close to their cost anyway.

They don't interfere with the suspension working and in fact help it in the corners and act somewhat like if you added an anti-roll bar/sway bar in the back and limit lifting of one side in a turn.

I highly recommend them if they say they will work in your application,

Sum

[jimcaf]

Id like to use the caltacs but because of the lowering blocks I dont think thats the way i want to roll,,in the next week or so Im going to weld a couple of ears to the diff and link it to the chassi,,il post how it works out,,,
thanks again jim

[1FATGMC]

Id like to use the caltacs but because of the lowering blocks I dont think thats the way i want to roll,,in the next week or so Im going to weld a couple of ears to the diff and link it to the chassi,,il post how it works out,,,
thanks again jim

Just wondering why you think they might not work??  I could see where they might get too close to the ground at the axle.

If I was going to do something like you are thinking and if there is room I would look at a long torque arm that goes all the way up to near the rear of the transmission like on a camaro/firebird.  The problem I think you will run into is that as leaf springs compress the axle is going to move rearwards and somehow like the Caltracs do you are going to have to compensate for that.

Let us know what works,

Sum

[jimcaf]

Sum,,your right,,i didnt think about that link pushing the diff back causing it to bind,,,Iv seen on another forum were a fellow had a midly built 350 chevy with a stick launched it and blew the whole diff out of the car he said because of the blocks and quite a few others says the blocks are ok for slow and low..but maybe dangerous with any power,,mine going to be putting down about 420 rear wheel with a 5 speed and an 8.8 posi,,
Iv heard from everyone that has the Cal tracs there great and if i dint have the blocks i would just get them but the cost there almost half way to a 4 link and not for sure to work,,I may just scrap all of it and 4 link it ,
 thanks again for giving me the heads on how it would push back jim