Dodge 2.4 dohc, how do I get my timing belt on right?

[48builder]

First, I hate front wheel drive cars. And who ever heard of putting a water pump behind a timing belt anyway.

My Stratus has 102K miles so I figured I'd change the timing belt. Might as well do the water pump too while I'm at it.

All is going well until I put my new belt on. I'm getting the timing marks on each cam sprocket lined up straight across and my crankshaft mark pointing to the mark on th oil pump. As soon as I get the tensioner on, my crank mark is to the right of the oil pump mark and the cam marks are off. I know the tensioner will move the cam when I put it on, but I can't seem to get everything just right. I thought I had it one time and started the car up. It ran fine but started hard, so I took it off and started all over.

Any of you guys know the secret to getting this right?

Thanks

Walt

[wayne petty]

ok... i have a few questions..

are you locking the tentioner at full retraction so you can install the belt and then release the tentioner...

i have personaly not had the pleasure yet of doing a belt on on of these...


i was trying to find some info...






Align the timing marks of the timing belt sprockets to the timing marks on the rear timing belt cover and oil pump cover. Loosen the timing belt tensioner bolts.

If equipped with a mechanical tensioner, install a 6mm Allen wrench into the belt tensioner, then insert the long end of a 1/8 inch or 3mm Allen wrench into the pin hole on the front of the tensioner. Rotate the tensioner counterclockwise with the 6mm wrench, while pushing in lightly on the 1/8 inch or 3mm Allen wrench until it slides into the locking hole.
Remove the camshaft sprockets.

Remove the crankshaft sprocket using special removal tool No. 6793 or equivalent.

If equipped with a hydraulic tensioner, place the tensioner into a soft jawed vise to compress the tensioner. After compressing the tensioner, place a pin (a 5/64 in. Allen wrench will work) into the plunger side hole to retain the plunger until installation.
To install:

Using sprocket installation tool No. 6792 or equivalent, press the crankshaft sprocket onto the crankshaft.
Install the camshaft sprockets onto the camshafts. Install and tighten the sprocket retaining bolts to 75 ft. lbs. (101 Nm).

Install the crankshaft sprocket. Set the crankshaft sprocket to Top Dead Center (TDC) by aligning the notch on the sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump housing.

Set the camshafts to align the timing marks on the sprockets.

Move the crankshaft to 1/2 notch before TDC.

Install the timing belt starting at the crankshaft, then around the water pump sprocket, idler pulley, camshaft sprockets, and then around the tensioner pulley.
   Move the crankshaft sprocket to TDC to take up the belt slack.
   Install the tensioner to the engine block, but do not tighten.
   Using a torque wrench on the tensioner pulley apply 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm) of tighten to the tensioner pulley.
   With torque being applied to the tensioner pulley, move the tensioner up against the tensioner pulley bracket and tighten the fasteners to 275 inch lbs. (31 Nm).
   Remove the tensioner plunger pin. The tension is correct when the plunger pin can be removed and replaced easily.
   Rotate the crankshaft 2 revolutions and recheck the timing marks. Wait several minutes and then recheck that the plunger pin can easily be removed and installed.
   Reinstall the front timing belt cover(s).
   Reinstall the engine mount bracket.
   Reinstall the right engine mount.
   Remove the floor jack from under the vehicle.
   Install the crankshaft damper and tighten to 105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm).
   Install the accessory drive belts and adjust to the proper tension.
   Install the right inner splash shield.
   Reconnect the negative battery cable.
Check for leaks and proper engine operation.

[48builder]

ok... i have a few questions..

are you locking the tentioner at full retraction so you can install the belt and then release the tentioner...


Move the crankshaft to 1/2 notch before TDC.

.
   Install the tensioner to the engine block, but do not tighten.
   Using a torque wrench on the tensioner pulley apply 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm) of tighten to the tensioner pulley.
   With torque being applied to the tensioner pulley, move the tensioner up against the tensioner pulley bracket and tighten the fasteners to 275 inch lbs. (31 Nm).
   Remove the tensioner plunger pin. The tension is correct when the plunger pin can be removed and replaced easily.
   .

I think I have the tensioner correct. I use an allen bit with my 1/2" drive to retract it, and then slip the belt over it. That part about being able to slip the plunger pin in doesn't make sense to me. I'll try it and see.

I got to thinking last night that maybe I just need to set the crank mark just before TDC and then put the belt on. I don't have any alignment marks for the cam sprockets on the cover. None that I can see anyway.

I'll try it again to day and see how it goes.

Thanks,

Walt

[wayne petty]

does your tentioner look like that image.. you use the 6mm allen to turn the ajuster back agenst the spring tention and a 1/8 inch allen though the side hole to hold it back until you have the belt installed then you can use th 6 again a rotate it a little and pull the pin/allen....


if you have a hydraulic tentioner.  it looks like a little  hydraulic piston assy.. that you would have to remove from the car and squeese it ina vice it and again using a hardened pin to hold the piston back until the belt is in place...

it could be either depending on the year and application...

[48builder]

does your tentioner look like that image.. you use the 6mm allen to turn the ajuster back agenst the spring tention and a 1/8 inch allen though the side hole to hold it back until you have the belt installed then you can use th 6 again a rotate it a little and pull the pin/allen....


...

Yeah, I have the one in the pic. I finally got it right. What a PITA job. I spent 15 hours on the stupid car. Now that I have done it, I could do it again in 4 or 5, but I hope I never have to.

Thanks for all the help, Wayne

Walt