Mustang sway bar

Started by enjenjo, June 29, 2007, 09:42:16 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

enjenjo

I'm doing a 40 Plymouth pickup right now. I am using a You weld it front crossmember, stock width. I needed a sway bar for it, and did not want to use a wimpy stock Mustang bar. I dug around, and found an S10 bar, about 1" diameter, it looked pretty close, so I tried it.

I had to bend each end out 2 1/4". That's it. I fabricated a bracket on the lower control arm that bolts on with the strut rod, and used S10 links. It clears the steering in all positions, and the S10 mounts will bolt to the bottom of the frame. I checked the width on a 40 Ford, and a 47 Chevy, and it will work there too.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

Crosley.In.AZ

flathead V-8 , plymouth , studie ?
Tony

 Plutophobia (Fear of money)

river1

caddy flathead???

later jim
Most people have a higher than average number of legs.

phat rat

Quote from: "river1"caddy flathead???

later jim

My guess also. Stude and plymouth didn't have flathead V8's
Some days it\'s not worth chewing through the restraints.

enjenjo

It's not a flathead. There is a clue in the picture if you look close.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

phat46

HEMI!!!
Why didn't you want to use the Mustang swaybar? Maybe because of the bend in the middle?

UGLY OLDS

Neat idea on the outer link bracket under the strut bar mount...I gotta remember that one.... :idea:  Neat trans adapter...What trans & starter is being used??
1940 Oldsmobile- The "Ugly Olds"
1931 Ford sedan- Retirement project

***** First Member of Team Smart*****

enjenjo

The Mustang sway bar has the pesky bend that hits everything, or hangs down too far, and is very small in diameter.

It's a 392 out of a 58, the trans is a 700R4, and the starter is Mopar.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

2rods

What year or years S10?

Crosley.In.AZ

Plymouth , studie or maybe a franklin engine??

8)
Tony

 Plutophobia (Fear of money)

Crosley.In.AZ

Quote from: "enjenjo"I'm doing a 40 Plymouth pickup right now. I am using a You weld it front crossmember, stock width. I needed a sway bar for it, and did not want to use a wimpy stock Mustang bar. I dug around, and found an S10 bar, about 1" diameter, it looked pretty close, so I tried it.

I had to bend each end out 2 1/4". That's it. I fabricated a bracket on the lower control arm that bolts on with the strut rod, and used S10 links. It clears the steering in all positions, and the S10 mounts will bolt to the bottom of the frame. I checked the width on a 40 Ford, and a 47 Chevy, and it will work there too.

does the heat destroy/ anneal  the sway bar metal , render it useless??
Tony

 Plutophobia (Fear of money)

Charlie Chops 1940

A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying. "Wow...that was fun!"

Poster geezer for retirement....

A Hooligan!

enjenjo

Quote from: "2rods"What year or years S10?

This one came out of an 85. So 82 to 93 should be the same.

Heating a sway bar doesn't hurt it. They are heat treated, but not to a high degree.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

Dave

Quote from: "Crosley"
Quote from: "enjenjo"I'm doing a 40 Plymouth pickup right now. I am using a You weld it front crossmember, stock width. I needed a sway bar for it, and did not want to use a wimpy stock Mustang bar. I dug around, and found an S10 bar, about 1" diameter, it looked pretty close, so I tried it.

I had to bend each end out 2 1/4". That's it. I fabricated a bracket on the lower control arm that bolts on with the strut rod, and used S10 links. It clears the steering in all positions, and the S10 mounts will bolt to the bottom of the frame. I checked the width on a 40 Ford, and a 47 Chevy, and it will work there too.

does the heat destroy/ anneal  the sway bar metal , render it useless??

Heat it and let it cool Tony.. If it air cools it will be just fine,. Its doing most of the work inboard of the bend anyway ... the bend just helps get the thing  where you want it.  If you cool it rapidly with water it could become brittle and if you did it by plunging it into oil then it would heat treat it but then it must be drawn back or it could still be too hard.  The best way is to heat it and bend it then bury it in floor dry for an extended cool down period but air cooling works just fine.....
Dave

tomslik

croz, don't leave it out in your "dry" heat.



it'll melt in to the sidewalk.... :lol:
The last thing I want to do is hurt you. But it\'s still on my list