Mustang II cross members

Started by Crosley.In.AZ, December 09, 2006, 06:55:45 PM

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Crosley.In.AZ

I think I want to run OEM A arms on an after market cross member.  This will require a strut rod assembly on the lower A arm  , I am OK with that

From the looks of them , the OE  rubber bushings are better than some of the tubular A arm bushings.  By better I mean the OE rubber bushings are thicker , a little more forgiving on regular street driving ( pot holes , etc) .

I recall FAtman stuff can use OE A arms on most of their stuff.

Any other cross members that can use OEM A arms?

Is my line of thinking on this wrong?
Tony

 Plutophobia (Fear of money)

enjenjo

Most of them make a model that  can use OE arms. This for the Morris?
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

Crosley.In.AZ

Quote from: "enjenjo"Most of them make a model that  can use OE arms. This for the Morris?

Yes....... I need a narrow width cross member.  As an eggzample , the 48 Anglia is the same track width as the Morris
Tony

 Plutophobia (Fear of money)

GPster

Make sure you get a crossmember that is designed to be narrow. It should have the steering rack mounted lower or a narrower rack to match the different placement of the inner radiuses of the upper and lower "A" frames. By the engineering, the placement of the inner joint of the rack has more to do with the balance of the components than the tie rod ends at the spindles. I can't explain it technically but I know what the picture is supposed to look like. GPster

enjenjo

Morris front enf parts have been used on a lot of cars too. Maval will make a rack to the width you need.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

Learpilot

I have a Fatman crossmember and it uses the strut rod.  I am running the stock arms. So far the only problem that I have had is one of the top arm bolts slid after hitting a pot hole which made my front end out of alignment. I wished that Ford had done what GM did and use shims for alignment.  I am thinking about making a angle jam bolt to keep the top frame from moving after alignment. It is easier to make than describe.
Rick Harris

GPster

Quote from: "Learpilot"I have a Fatman crossmember and it uses the strut rod.  I am running the stock arms. So far the only problem that I have had is one of the top arm bolts slid after hitting a pot hole which made my front end out of alignment. I wished that Ford had done what GM did and use shims for alignment.  I am thinking about making a angle jam bolt to keep the top frame from moving after alignment. It is easier to make than describe.
Rick Harris
I seem to remember back in the old days Frank Oddo did an article in Street Rodder about changing them over the way you propose. He rotated the cross rod on the upper "A" frame 90 Degrees and welded a strap of iron to the top of the spring tower to bolt the top "A" frame as you propose. That must not have caught on because everyone seems to do them the stock way or talk you into buying new arms that still work the stock way. GPster

Crosley.In.AZ

Quote from: "Learpilot"I have a Fatman crossmember and it uses the strut rod.  I am running the stock arms. So far the only problem that I have had is one of the top arm bolts slid after hitting a pot hole which made my front end out of alignment. I wished that Ford had done what GM did and use shims for alignment.  I am thinking about making a angle jam bolt to keep the top frame from moving after alignment. It is easier to make than describe.
Rick Harris


I've seen some cross members with the mentioned change in the upper control arm mounting.  Shims are then inserted.

It would seem you need the control arm  in the basic correct angle to start with shimming.
Tony

 Plutophobia (Fear of money)

Leon

I just put a Fatman Stage III front end in my 54 and it uses the shims for adjustment.  So far I really like the way it's put together.  No problems.

GPster

Quote from: "Crosley"It would seem you need the control arm  in the basic correct angle to start with shimming.
The one I saw had the center of the arc of swing in the same place as stock. GPster

Learpilot

What I am talking about is taking a 1" peace of angle welding (2)  3/8" nuts with holes through the angle and bolting it on the inside of the top spring perch. Take (2) 3/8" X 2" bolts mounted horizonal with jam nuts.  The bolt heads will just jam up next to the cross bar of the stock upper a-frame. The head of the bolt will not interfere with the movement of the upper a-frame. This is still adjustable and it is not for alignment but just there to hopefully to keep the upper a-frame from moving again.

Rick Harris
As my Daddy would always say I hope this is clear as mud.

enjenjo

There are some washers available, I get mine from old AMC cars in a salvage yard, anyway the are serrated on both sides, and fit between the A frame, and the crossmember. Once it is tightened up, it won't slip, you have to kind of pry things apart to move the A frame. You will find these washers under the fender to firewall braces, where they bolt to the fender.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

Learpilot

Quote from: "enjenjo"There are some washers available, I get mine from old AMC cars in a salvage yard, anyway the are serrated on both sides, and fit between the A frame, and the crossmember. Once it is tightened up, it won't slip, you have to kind of pry things apart to move the A frame. You will find these washers under the fender to firewall braces, where they bolt to the fender.
Thanks for the tip I will go to my local bone yard and get some washers.
What years of AMC cars I should look for ?
Thanks , Rick Harris

enjenjo

60's, 70's, most any with the braces in them. You'll have to grind the hole to fit the Mustang bolts
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

Dave

Quote from: "enjenjo"There are some washers available, I get mine from old AMC cars in a salvage yard, anyway the are serrated on both sides, and fit between the A frame, and the crossmember. Once it is tightened up, it won't slip, you have to kind of pry things apart to move the A frame. You will find these washers under the fender to firewall braces, where they bolt to the fender.

I got this info from my neighbor who has a 36 plymouth with a fatman kit. they said to take a chisel and put the serations on the im thinking now hats? where the arms ride that way they wont move. i got this info after i installed my heights (spelling) on my 34 but mine never moved?
Dave :!:  :idea:  :arrow: