Cold Weather Q

Started by C9, December 09, 2006, 02:44:17 PM

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C9

Taking note of JusJunk's recent post that it's getting a touch chilly in Michigan made me wonder what the folks from genuinely cold areas - like Michigan - do for work gloves inside a chilly building.

Been setting up a nine inch diff - as well as making a buncha tools to do the job - and the garage here in Sunny Arizona can be pretty cold inside.
About 39 inside this morning.

A few days back, the overnight lows were in the high teens and the garage gets into the mid-high 20's.

I run a kerosene turbine heater to take off the chill, shut it down and then run a propane heater to warm the workbench area.
Even so, temps don't get much over the low 50's inside.

This afternoon I dug out the insulated Carhart bib coveralls.
They do a good job as does the Carhart work jacket, sweatshirt, knit cap etc.
Bought the coveralls in Central California when I lived there.
High 30's - low 40's with fog is cold.

The fly in the ointment is my hands get cold.
I've tried mittens and they help, but they're not too swift with the small stuff.

I'm wondering how the fingerless gloves work?

It looks like they're leather and maybe insulated?

Anyone have any experience with these?

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Since I sold my 20 ton hydraulic press when I moved I was pleasantly surprised to find that my 2 ton arbor press would press the pinion bearing on.
Feels like it's getting close to it's limits, but cranking the handle down wih about 200# force did the job.

A little white grease was used for lubrication.

Which brings up another question . . . how many guys are using the HF 12 ton floor hydraulic press?
I'm a touch limited in floor space and it would be tough to get a 20 ton press to fit in somewhere, but if I had too....
C9

Sailing the turquoise canyons of the Arizona desert.

phat rat

Taking note of JusJunk's recent post that it's getting a touch chilly in Michigan made me wonder what the folks from genuinely cold areas - like Michigan - do for work gloves inside a chilly building.



Well most of us have heated garages so no need for gloves unless you're using them to keep your hands clean. I heat with wood and keep it 65-70
Some days it\'s not worth chewing through the restraints.

Dave

Quote from: "phat rat"Taking note of JusJunk's recent post that it's getting a touch chilly in Michigan made me wonder what the folks from genuinely cold areas - like Michigan - do for work gloves inside a chilly building.



Well most of us have heated garages so no need for gloves unless you're using them to keep your hands clean. I heat with wood and keep it 65-70

Mechanics gloves.. WE use em for deer hunting too :!:  But as jack said ,,, heat I keep my garage at 70 when im working out there. I washed the truck today and pulled it in and used a wet towel and a dry one and wiped it clean. Then I changed the oil. Just had a buddy leave and we were looking at the roadster an shooting the u know what. I turned the heat down on the way out cause im going to pull the truck out in the morning for the ohio trip but im not working again till next week.
DAVE

phat46

...ya don't need gloves till it gets cold out....below 20 is where it's starting to get cold.  :P   All I wear when outside all day hunting when it can be in the teens or colder is a pair of military wool glove liners, the best thing i've ever used, they are thin enough to fit in a trigger gaurd and keep your hands warm all day; but they'd be no good in a shop. If i need gloves for working on smaller stuff when it's cold I use thin leather work gloves, the tan kind that are usually used for protection in a shop enviroment. They won't keep your hands warm outside in the wind, but work fine inside a shop. Besides, if you're working hard enough your hands never get cold!!!  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

tom36

Quote from: "phat rat"Taking note of JusJunk's recent post that it's getting a touch chilly in Michigan made me wonder what the folks from genuinely cold areas - like Michigan - do for work gloves inside a chilly building.



Well most of us have heated garages so no need for gloves unless you're using them to keep your hands clean. I heat with wood and keep it 65-70

When I was in the Air Force, I had a set of mittens knitted with flaps in the palms  (much like hunters mittens so you can get your fingers out to squeeze the trigger).  Your hands stayed warm and you could use your fingers for the small stuff.  Now I'm retired and live in Maine--  the garage is heated! :D  :D  :D Tom...

enjenjo

For outside, brown cotton jersey work gloves work good as long as you can keep them dry, otherwise I use Mechanics gloves. The thrmostat in my shop is set at 67 degrees. About the only time I wear gloves in the shop are when doing something like welding or polishing.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

Charlie Chops 1940

Yup, heat is the answer for keeping the hands warm. I kinda like the thin buckskin gloves to keep the cuts and nicks down when cutting/grinding/fitting stuff. Only cuz they're cheaper than mechanix gloves - although I have them too - and they feel stuff better.

I heated with wood for many years in my shop but switched to a hanging natural gas heater maybe 10 years or so ago. Cleaner, and probably as cheap if you don't have your own wood lot like Jack does.

Charlie
A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying. "Wow...that was fun!"

Poster geezer for retirement....

A Hooligan!

Crosley.In.AZ

C-9 ..........  in the 50 degree temps , would a latex or nitrile type glove help you keep in some heat on your hands?

 They work well with small parts pickup.

:T)


);b(
Tony

 Plutophobia (Fear of money)

C9

Thanks for the info guys.

A heated shop would be the answer, but right now I'm concentrating on the 31.

I'll give the Mechanics Gloves a shot.
I have a pair I forgot about . . . carry them in the 32 in case I have to work on it on the road, never had to use them.

Far as the latex/nitrile gloves go, maybe.
Seems like most solvents we use eat them up, at least it does the type I have.
I think there may be a type that resists oils etc.
I'll do some checking.

I probably need to run the portable dual element propane heater more.
It lasts quite a while when on one burner set on low.

As mentioned, I run the kerosene turbine heater - I think some call these Salamanders - to knock the chill down, but it's roaring gets old after a while.

Geez, I thought I had all the parts to set up the nine inch locker, now I need an oil slinger and a seal protector.

I could machine an oil slinger if I knew the size and I think things will work ok without the seal protector.

The seal protector being the stamped sheet metal cup that fits over the nose of the carrier case and behind the companion flange.
C9

Sailing the turquoise canyons of the Arizona desert.

58 Yeoman

I use a propane turbine heater to get the garage up to a workable temp, then use a ventless propane wall heater to keep it there.  This weekend, I bought a radiant heater for the propane tanks, single element.  Got to thinking with all the power outages we've had, all my heat sources in the house require electricity (propane turbine, corn stove and gas furnace).  At least this way, I can use the radiant heater if the power goes out for an extended time.

Tony, if you're talking about the latex 'surgical' gloves, they don't keep your hands warm, the cold will go right through them.
I survived the Hyfrecator 2000.

"Life is what happens when you're making other plans."
1967 Corvair 500 2dr Hardtop
1967 Corvair 500 4dr Hardtop
Phil

Crosley.In.AZ

Quote from: "58 Yeoman"

Tony, if you're talking about the latex 'surgical' gloves, they don't keep your hands warm, the cold will go right through them.

The shop at work has no heat.  The heaters hung from the ceiling are decorations. In the low 60's the gloves help me in the early mornings. Handling cold steel parts , my hands will get cold

QuoteFar as the latex/nitrile gloves go, maybe.
Seems like most solvents we use eat them up, at least it does the type I have.
I think there may be a type that resists oils etc.

:mrgreen:

the nitrile gloves usually blue or purple in color work great in solvents.  

Xylene will melt them down in 20 -30 minutes though...

We use xylene  in pressurized spray containers to clean 'black death' out of the valve bodies, works well.

);b(

There is a mechanics type glove that are dipped in nitril for 3/4 length of  the fingers/thumb and the whole  palm area only, back side is open mesh  material.  They may work for you in an oily / greasy parts  situation.

:-}
Tony

 Plutophobia (Fear of money)

Uncle Bob

I heat the garage too, but found some nice all around shop use gloves...........well, found might not be the right word, they were given away at SEMA a few years ago as a product launch.
Anyway, they're thin nylon mesh on the back for breathing, and nitrile coated on the front.  Very flexible, picking up small stuff is about comparable to a good fitting latex glove, and the nitrile has "traction" so the part doesn't slip away.  I really like them, and they're less expensive than the typical mechanix glove.  Here's one source I found with a quick search, prolly others; http://www.azautobodysupply.com/nykncopagl64.html
If you normally wear a Large size glove, the XL in these would be better.  One of the other vendors had a 12 pack for under $40, but a dozen might last the rest of your life + :)
Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity meet.

purplepickup

I agree with Uncle Bob.  I bought a 12 pack of the gloves he's talking about 6 months ago and I'm still on the first pair.  They are very strong, solvent resistant, flexible enough to pick up a 1/4" flat washer, and with the thin cloth back you don't sweat a lot in them.  They're perfect for the moderate temps above 20 degrees.  I got mine here: http://gss-store.com/product/COR6890G .  For a couple bucks it might be worth trying a pair.   I think a dozen was about $25 and like Bob said, they will probably last me for the rest of my life.  Another thing I like is that they are not "one size fits all".  I wear XL and they fit just right.
George

Crosley.In.AZ

Quote from: "purplepickup"I agree with Uncle Bob.  I bought a 12 pack of the gloves he's talking about 6 months ago and I'm still on the first pair.  They are very strong, solvent resistant, flexible enough to pick up a 1/4" flat washer, and with the thin cloth back you don't sweat a lot in them.  They're perfect for the moderate temps above 20 degrees.  I got mine here: http://gss-store.com/product/COR6890G .  For a couple bucks it might be worth trying a pair.   I think a dozen was about $25 and like Bob said, they will probably last me for the rest of my life.  Another thing I like is that they are not "one size fits all".  I wear XL and they fit just right.

must be the gloves I posted about.  they work well.  They must fit snug to work best for picking up stuff. If you have a loose fit , you will not like them ... been there - done it.  

A vendor gave us some free samples.  All X-large. Well , we did not like them because of the fit. When we got the correct size we were happy.


QuoteThere is a mechanics type glove that are dipped in nitril for 3/4 length of the fingers/thumb and the whole palm area only, back side is open mesh material. They may work for you in an oily / greasy parts situation.
Tony

 Plutophobia (Fear of money)

purplepickup

Quote from: "Crosley"
must be the gloves I posted about.  they work well.  They must fit snug to work best for picking up stuff. If you have a loose fit , you will not like them ... been there - done it.  

A vendor gave us some free samples.  All X-large. Well , we did not like them because of the fit. When we got the correct size we were happy.

We've got some at work that look the ones I talked about but the coating is thinner and they are stretchy and snug.  They're very nice but the place we get them from doesn't sell retail and I can't find them anywhere else.  The ones I did find are pretty close tho.
George