Can I get some gas tank advice, please?

Started by 48builder, September 15, 2006, 12:11:03 PM

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48builder

Last year I had a friend build me a gas tank. He made it out of steel. I don't know what gauge he used, but it is HEAVY. I guess at least 55-60 pounds. That's not the main problem. When I slipped the pump and sending unit in, I'm not sure I measured correctly. I am not sure the float is going to work. Here's my questions.

1) I was thinking about testing the sending unit by filling the tank with water. That way, if I need to do anything with, or anything near the tank (it is in the car), I don't have to worry about blowing my house up. Good idea or bad?

2) I asked my sheet metal guy about bending me up the pieces to make an aluminum tank. He has .063 (1/16 inch) and .125 (1/8 inch). Cost would be $40 and $80 respectively. I can make the tank the right size if I need to modify it after testing the steel tank. Which thickness would be better? The 1/8 inch seems very thick. The cost difference is negligible. If I do make another tank, I want it to be right.

3) If the sending unit does work on the steel tank, shoudl I just keep it? The aluminum would look nicer, for whatever that's worth.

Thanks for any advice.

Walt
'48 Chevy Custom sedan in progress-Z28 LT1 drivetrain, chopped, shortened, too many other body mods to list
'39 Chevy driver

donsrods

Well, the majority of tanks on passenger cars have been made of steel for years, but it is generally coated with a rust inhibitor.  Problem is, all gasoline has some water content in it, you get water right at the pump, and some from condensation.

The new gasolines are going to contain ethanol in higher concentrations, and ethanol loves to suck up moisture, even out of the air. We are going to start having more problems, I feel, related to this fact.

Why don't you just go to one of the companies who build tanks, like "Tanks." They do this all day long, have tanks that are more than raw steel, and have lots of different applications and universal tanks to choose from. This is one area that will come back to bite you if not done right. The consequences of rust particles in the fuel system will drive you nuts. My one Son had a '65 Olds we restored and used the old tank. He was plaqued with small particles of rust continually plugging up his carbs, electric fuel pump, etc.

The money you are going to spend on this first tank and now a second tank will probably be close to that of a properly made professional tank.

JMO,

Don

Fat Cat

Quote from: "48builder"Last year I had a friend build me a gas tank. He made it out of steel. I don't know what gauge he used, but it is HEAVY. I guess at least 55-60 pounds. That's not the main problem. When I slipped the pump and sending unit in, I'm not sure I measured correctly. I am not sure the float is going to work. Here's my questions.

1) I was thinking about testing the sending unit by filling the tank with water. That way, if I need to do anything with, or anything near the tank (it is in the car), I don't have to worry about blowing my house up. Good idea or bad?

2) I asked my sheet metal guy about bending me up the pieces to make an aluminum tank. He has .063 (1/16 inch) and .125 (1/8 inch). Cost would be $40 and $80 respectively. I can make the tank the right size if I need to modify it after testing the steel tank. Which thickness would be better? The 1/8 inch seems very thick. The cost difference is negligible. If I do make another tank, I want it to be right.

3) If the sending unit does work on the steel tank, shoudl I just keep it? The aluminum would look nicer, for whatever that's worth.

Thanks for any advice.

Walt

Why not go with a Tank's Inc poly tank for a 41-48 chevy. They make 2 different ones a long and a short. If you have a spare tire well you need the short otherwise you can use either. Yogi's sells them for $215 for the short, $235 for the long. And you would not need to worry about coating it or rust. We used one in enjenjo's 47 a few years ago and it was a bolt in. They even have provisions for in tank electric pump mounting.

Ed ke6bnl

I had an aluminum one made for my 50 F1 by kustom Tanks very reasonable. Ed ke6bnl
1948 F3, parts
1950 F1 SteetRod,
1949 F1 V8 flathead stocker
1948 F6 V8 SBC,
1953 Chevy 3100 AD pu future project& 85 s10 longbed for chassis
1972 Chopped El Camino daily driver
1968 Mustang Coupe
1998.5 Dodge 4x4 cummins 4door, 35"bfg,

papastoyss

Amen to the Tanks poly tank. Buy it once, be done with it.No rust ever. Be sure you deburr the holes where the grommets go for the vent and fuel lines. ( Don't ask me why, its a long story)
grandchildren are your reward for not killing your teenagers!

48builder

[quote="Fat Cat
Why not go with a Tank's Inc poly tank for a 41-48 chevy. They make 2 different ones a long and a short. If you have a spare tire well you need the short otherwise you can use either. Yogi's sells them for $215 for the short, $235 for the long. And you would not need to worry about coating it or rust. We used one in enjenjo's 47 a few years ago and it was a bolt in. They even have provisions for in tank electric pump mounting.[/quote]

My main reason for having a tank built was to use my pump and sender from the '95 Z28 donor car. I have it, and I wouldn't have to change any wiring, etc since I am using the factory wiring harness. It seems like a steel tank may not be best. Anythoughts on the aluminum thickness if I have one bent up?
'48 Chevy Custom sedan in progress-Z28 LT1 drivetrain, chopped, shortened, too many other body mods to list
'39 Chevy driver

Fat Cat

Quote from: "48builder"
Quote from: "Fat Cat"
Why not go with a Tank's Inc poly tank for a 41-48 chevy. They make 2 different ones a long and a short. If you have a spare tire well you need the short otherwise you can use either. Yogi's sells them for $215 for the short, $235 for the long. And you would not need to worry about coating it or rust. We used one in enjenjo's 47 a few years ago and it was a bolt in. They even have provisions for in tank electric pump mounting.

My main reason for having a tank built was to use my pump and sender from the '95 Z28 donor car. I have it, and I wouldn't have to change any wiring, etc since I am using the factory wiring harness. It seems like a steel tank may not be best. Anythoughts on the aluminum thickness if I have one bent up?

The Tank's tank has provisions to install your stock pump into the tank. All you have to do is cut out the hole and install it.

tomslik

does "tanks" have a sump now?
last i knew, they didn't.
that AIN'T a good thing with efi....
The last thing I want to do is hurt you. But it\'s still on my list

enjenjo

Quote from: "tomslik"does "tanks" have a sump now?
last i knew, they didn't.
that AIN'T a good thing with efi....

They have a sump available. It's made of stainless, and will mount your stock in tank pump   http://www.yogisinc.com/Detail.cfm/-/Product_CD=TANPA-4/Category=1628/product.htm
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.