Relay question

[EMSjunkie]

I seem to have a problem with my
AutoLoc shaved door solenoid.  :?

the passenger side relay keeps going bad.
it will work for about 2-3 months, then it quits.

I can hear the relay "clicking" when I mash the button, but
there is no power coming out of it.  
have had no trouble with the drivers side, just the pass. side.
both are wired the same, it has me puzzled.

surly someone here with more "relay knowledge" than I
can tell me what I'm doing wrong.

TIA

Vance

[MrMopar64]

I seem to have a problem with my
AutoLoc shaved door solenoid.  :?

the passenger side relay keeps going bad.
it will work for about 2-3 months, then it quits.

I can hear the relay "clicking" when I mash the button, but
there is no power coming out of it.  
have had no trouble with the drivers side, just the pass. side.
both are wired the same, it has me puzzled.

surly someone here with more "relay knowledge" than I
can tell me what I'm doing wrong.

TIA

Vance

What amp relays are you using? I always use 40 amp. Have you checked the output of the relay to be sure it is the relay? If you have 12v at the output of the relay it could be a bad/weak solenoid or bad ground for the solenoid. I had one on a Bronco that would give problems and after changing the switch and relay turned out to be in the solenoid.
Another thing I've seen happen Is a friend mounted all his stuff in the door but could only get it to work when he ran wires straight from the batt. Turned out he had to run a ground wire into the door for the solenoid as the hinge was not providing a good enough ground  :?

Check out this site........ http://www.the12volt.com/ click on relays

Good Luck

MM64  

[enjenjo]

I agree. I would be looking at the grounds.

[Mr Cool]

If the relay is 'clicking" but not working it sounds like the contacts are burning out, and you need to find out why. I would be looking at the solenoid.
Can you change the left and right hand solenoids over? That willl prove whether its the cause or not as the other relay will play up.
Of course you can decrease the wear on relay contacts simply by putting a small capacitor across the contacts, that will stop the arcing and burning them out, although its really only patching up the problem not fixing it.

[EMSjunkie]

Thanks for the info guys, I really appreciate it.  
that will give me a direction to head.

will start with the ground situation, then go from there  

Thanks again


Vance

[Crosley.In.AZ]

mayb the motor is pulling too many amps?  Over working the relay??


Does the winder bind a little as it moves??

[EMSjunkie]

What amp relays are you using? I always use 40 amp.  
MM64  

The original one was a 40 amp.
but the replacement one is a 30 amp I believe.
it lasted about as long as the 40 amp.

Vance

[EMSjunkie]

If the relay is 'clicking" but not working it sounds like the contacts are burning out, and you need to find out why. I would be looking at the solenoid.
Can you change the left and right hand solenoids over?

Yea, its a PIA, but its doable.
was thinking about using a spare 15 lb solenoid I have.
something to test with  :?

Thanks for the info, its another avenue to persue.  


Vance

[EMSjunkie]

Does the winder bind a little as it moves??

HUH? I don't unnerstand, what winder? solenoid is
located directly below the door latch, straight shot for the cable.
bearclaw latches, door opens easily, nothing binds that I can see.  :?  :?


Vance

[Leon]

Of course you can decrease the wear on relay contacts simply by putting a small capacitor across the contacts, that will stop the arcing and burning them out, although its really only patching up the problem not fixing it.

You can also use a diode backwards across the contacts.  When you turn off the relay, a counter voltage is produced that is opposite the voltage originally applied to it.  The diode will shunt this spike.  A capacitor will work but the diode should do better.

[Mr Cool]

You can also use a diode backwards across the contacts.  When you turn off the relay, a counter voltage is produced that is opposite the voltage originally applied to it.  The diode will shunt this spike.  A capacitor will work but the diode should do better.

Maybe.
Using a reverse polarity diode across the COIL will prevent the controller from blowing up if switched by a FET or similar. very commonly used this way.
Using a diode across the contacts will do little. Using a cap across the contacts to stop arcing will produce better results, same principle as used to stop ingition points from burning out.

[Crosley.In.AZ]

Does the winder bind a little as it moves??

HUH? I don't unnerstand, what winder? solenoid is
located directly below the door latch, straight shot for the cable.
bearclaw latches, door opens easily, nothing binds that I can see.  :?  :?


Vance

If I have to eggsplain it....... never mind.

 

[EMSjunkie]

Does the winder bind a little as it moves??

HUH? I don't unnerstand, what winder? solenoid is
located directly below the door latch, straight shot for the cable.
bearclaw latches, door opens easily, nothing binds that I can see.  :?  :?


Vance

If I have to eggsplain it....... never mind.


OK then.  


VAnce

 

[river1]

how are you reading winder?

w-EYE-nder

or

w-END-er

that might help ya out.

later jim

[EMSjunkie]

either way, it ain't got nuttin' to do with the w-eye-nder
or the w-end-er.

its the door latch solenoid, the one that trips the bearclaw
latch to open the door.

maybe I really don't unnerstand.    :?    :?


Vance