Mustaqng 11 alignment tip

[Larry Day]

I am currently installing a TCI Mustang 11 cross member with stock control arms in my 1948 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup. I remember some where there was a modificitation on the top hat where a 1 inch by 3/8 thick bar was layed on edge and welded on the top so the upper control arm shaft was rotated 90 dergrees and bolted to the bar. Shims were used for front end alignment, rather than having the bolts sliding in the slots cut in the top hat.

Has any one made this modification or remember where the modification was posted?

[enjenjo]

I've done it, but it's not really necessary, the stock Mustang system seems to work pretty good. I only use it on modified front suspensions with taller spindles any more. That is the problem with a stock Mustang spindle, it raises the inner pivot about 3/4" to 1". Which can cause problems with ecessive camber change when cornering.

[GPster]

I remember that idea. Frank (a different one) Oddo did an article on that modification in Street Rodder years ago. He was setting up a Mustang II crossmember in a frame he was building for his truck project. At the time I thought it was a novel idea, but I now think it was something he came up with while he had all the pieces laid out on a clean floor. I don't recall if his reasoning was because of a problem he had had with another installation but that was probably 20 years ago. If it was necessary I'm sure one of the "after market" manufacturers would be using it to one up the competition. I've kept the idea in my mind as a possible fix for someone that has a crossmember that was incorrectly installed so that it has no anti-dive  for the braking. With a good crossmember from an established company I'd just follow their installation instructions. GPster

[Bob Paulin]

I would be hesitant to do such a modification.....

First of all, the stock M-II alignment situation isn't all that bad - especially with all the special tools available.

Secondly, raising the centerline of the upper inner pivot - which WILL happen with the above-described modification - LOWERS the front suspension's roll center - something you probably don't want to do when attaching this suspension to a high Center-of-Gravity vehicle such as a pickup or old fat-fendered car.

The high CoG coupled with the lower RC results in a LOT MORE lean in the turns.

If I were to modify the original M-II suspension at all - and I have absolutely no problem doing that - I would rather put in the longer-stud ball joints the circle trackers use to RAISE the RC somewhat - which shortens the Moment (or leverage) Arm that the CoG applies to the RC........

......giving me a vehicle that corners somewhat flatter....

[GPster]

I like these kind of questions. Every time I think I know something I learn more. I'd dabbled with the thought of lookin for a junk Pinto and cutting out the front crossmember (I've seen and heard enough about them done badly that I though I could do it right) and doing the Jeepster with that and the 2300 four and automatic. I probably should spend more time doing my original idea and less time thinking about it. GPster

[Okiedokie]

There is a company that manufacture a set up to do this. I do not recall the name, but they are basically in the Cobra replica parts business. I have seen the piece and it is nice, don't remember the price but not outlandish. I could probably come up with a name if needed. Joe

[Ohio Blue Tip]

Several years ago I had a 1938 Ford two door with a big block Ford in her.  The front suspension was a stock Mustang II cross member with stock arms and components.  It worked better than any rod I have driven to date.

[GPster]

Several years ago I had a 1938 Ford two door with a big block Ford in her.  The front suspension was a stock Mustang II cross member with stock arms and components.  It worked better than any rod I have driven to date.

Pintos and Mustang IIs are netoriously nose heavy and that is what that suspension is designed around, Maybe the big block Ford engine and other weight forward of the seat back helped bring the combo back to design conditions. Have to go now. They just called that my new glasses are done. Want to be able to see what I'm typing. GPster

[Ohio Blue Tip]

Maybe the big block Ford engine and other weight forward of the seat back helped bring the combo back to design conditions.  GPster[/quote]

You calling me fat?  :oops:

[jaybee]

I'm a little confused.  I think Shelby Mustangs (admittedly different from MII) used an A arm mount lower than stock Mustangs to improve camber change.  This would seem to do the opposite.

[Okiedokie]

The only purpose to this mod is to eliminate any "slipping" of the upper arms. You then align with shims.

[Dave]

The only purpose to this mod is to eliminate any "slipping" of the upper arms. You then align with shims.

If its stock mustang stuff there are serations to keep them from slipping. I have a buddy that did a fatman setup on an early plymouth and they told him to make serations in the top with a chisel to keep em from slipping. I didnt do it on my heights and it never moved but its a good thing to remember when using after market stuff. Seems it costs a little more money for them to make it right so they dont.
Dave

[flt-blk]

I would be hesitant to do such a modification.....

First of all, the stock M-II alignment situation isn't all that bad - especially with all the special tools available.

Secondly, raising the centerline of the upper inner pivot - which WILL happen with the above-described modification - LOWERS the front suspension's roll center - something you probably don't want to do when attaching this suspension to a high Center-of-Gravity vehicle such as a pickup or old fat-fendered car.

The high CoG coupled with the lower RC results in a LOT MORE lean in the turns.

If I were to modify the original M-II suspension at all - and I have absolutely no problem doing that - I would rather put in the longer-stud ball joints the circle trackers use to RAISE the RC somewhat - which shortens the Moment (or leverage) Arm that the CoG applies to the RC........

......giving me a vehicle that corners somewhat flatter....

It's too late if you already have the MII installed, but for anybody else
doing a truck have a look at Industrial Chassis site.  They use a Dodge
Dakota crossmember that seems to work very well with truck CoG and
desgin.

If you have any question ask for Steve, he is my first call when I have
suspension or brake questions.  I know he is on the HAMB as ElPolacko, n
not sure if he is on here.

http://www.industrialchassisinc.com/

[river1]

i'll second the recommendation for elpolacko/steve he's good people.

later jim