Testing residual pressure valves...

Started by efingstein, April 19, 2005, 08:41:29 AM

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efingstein

Is there a way to test which lb. setting the RPV's are? I'm thinking that my ECI units might be reversed. I had a problem with the back dragging and heating, now I have the same problem with the fronts.
Every man should forcibly leave his steel toe boot print on the face of history.

Dave

Quote from: "efingstein"Is there a way to test which lb. setting the RPV's are? I'm thinking that my ECI units might be reversed. I had a problem with the back dragging and heating, now I have the same problem with the fronts.

Arent they marked ? 10 lb rear drums and 2 lb disk... Wilwood are marked as such. and they are color coded. try takind the dam things out completely. I hate to say it but I never tried any of that junk till I got my 34 and im not so sure you need all that junk. The 30 model a i did last summer we just bought one of the new dual sided ported m/c's and i hooked it up disk drum and no prop valve of residual valves and its fine and has a nice pedal feel too boot.
Now im having trouble with my 32 but ive ruled out the the residual valve and m/c but if i did it again and i will ill go it the old way the way we did it for the experts told us we needed all this crap (sorry to the experts but tell it like it is)


Dave :wink:

rooster

I sorry I cant help with the test! May there web site has some instruction's or a FAQ's!

Helping the son with a 49 chevy that will have the M/C low and under the floor boards, are approach is to install the new Duel M/C in its low location with a s10 P-Valve  and try it, if that does not work add harware as needed only! If its not broke dont fix it!

Bruce Dorsi

Quote from: "efingstein"Is there a way to test which lb. setting the RPV's are? I'm thinking that my ECI units might be reversed. I had a problem with the back dragging and heating, now I have the same problem with the fronts.


My 2psi ECI rpv has a small "2" stamped into one of the flats of the brass body.  ...The stamping is approx 1/8" tall, so it is easy to miss.  

To test the rpv, while in a brake circuit, a pressure gauge can be hooked up between the caliper and the rpv.   ....An easy way is to make an adapter from a bleeder screw that connects to a low-pressure (approx 0-15 psi) gauge.  .....Apply only enough HAND pressure to the brake pedal to get the fluid pressure higher than the rpv rating. Obviously, too much pressure will blow the gauge.

It may be just as easy to remove the valves from the vehicle for testing, but you'll still need a way to apply and measure pressures.

Before you do anything, check closely to see if your ECI valves are stamped.  ....If in doubt, call ECI. ....Maybe only 2psi valves are stamped, and not the 10psi valves.  ....ECI will be able to tell you.

If the piston in your master cylinder does not return all the way against the retaining ring, your brakes can drag, since fluid is trapped in the brake ciruit.

A 2psi valve in a DRUM brake circuit should not cause the brakes to drag.  ....On the other hand, a 10psi valve in a DISC brake circuit may cause the pads to drag against the rotor.

If you are using a master cylinder, or a proportioning valve, which has a built-in rpv, it is intended for a DRUM brake circuit.  ....Connecting a DISC brake circuit to a built-in rpv will usually cause brake drag.

Generally, having two rpv's in the same circuit is not a problem.  However, the rpv with the higher psi setting will dominate, and thus determine the residual pressure.
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If being smart means knowing what I am dumb at,  I must be a genius!

efingstein

Thanks for the replys guys. When I pulled the calipers off the front Mon. night, they were cooked along with the rotors and pads. When I had it in the alignment shop, the tech said that the left caliper was stuck. I'm going to replace the calipers/pads, have the rotors turned and pull the RPV out of the front circuit and see what that does to the system. My thinking is that the stuck caliper, after being unstuck, isin't retracting like it should, dragging, heating the fluid and causing the other caliper to do tthe same. I also need to adjust the booster pin length. I wish enjenjo would let me borrow that cool lil tool he made.
Every man should forcibly leave his steel toe boot print on the face of history.

flt-blk

Remember also the valves are directional.

My RPV is color coded Red and Blue anodized.  I can't remember which
color is which right now, I will look when I get home.
TZ
Philosophy of hot rods
The welder is the Yin and the Grinder is the Yang

efingstein

ECI's RPVs are brass. No color coding here.
Every man should forcibly leave his steel toe boot print on the face of history.

Dave

Quote from: "efingstein"ECI's RPVs are brass. No color coding here.

No markings at all? how the hell do you know what you have?????????
Interesting
Dave :lol:

kb426

If you have a leakdown meter, plumb it in, back it off to zero and start rasing the pressure. Just note where it opens and you're done.
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