If it wasnt for bad luck.................

Started by Dave, April 14, 2005, 09:13:01 PM

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Dave

Ok now its the rear brakes. I drove my 32 all last summer with out hardly any brakes like front only. I replaced the rear shoes this winter and everything looked good until today. The drums never felt right to me but they were supposed to be new. They always had a tight spot that I never could get  around when adjusting the shoes. Oh ya this is a ford 9 inch. and it had all new ford ranger 10x2 1/2 brakes on it.. The squeak from the brakes were thinking was in the front and the rear. Id adjusted the rears when i put the new shoes on but as i said it always had a tight spot on both sides. After a ride tonite we noticed the squeak remained and found out that it was in the rear. I jacked up the car and the dam drums were boiling and the paint is bubbling in a couple spots. I backed the shoes way off and we went for a short ride and noe you can feel the warped drums as it skips to a stop if you let it roll. Why is this thing doing this and how the heck do you adjust drum brakes if the drums wont roll even ? Im just about to look for a bolt on disk conversion but im sure this should work I just dunno why it isnt. Oh ya with both drums off the rear end and holding one axle while rotating the other the center section seems to have a sticky spot also? Its an open so Im assuming that it should roll free even while holding one of the axles.. Bad spyder gears and shaft maybe? Im thinking of just parking this dam thing and playing wiht the bike this summer.

I cant believe ive got 35k wrapped in this thing and a full summer of driving it and now this.................... :x
Dave

32coupe

Try getting the drum machined first, you may have gotten some bad ones.
Also check that your axles are not bent, that will make the drums rotate out of round.
And when you adjust the brakes, dont do them up to tight, back them off a bit. This will ensure that the shoes are not in contact with the drums while driving.
If you can\'t fix it with a hammer, you\'ve got an electrical problem

Mr Cool

You should always check discs and drums before fitting them, new or not.
The other tight spot could be a damaged input yolk in the diff. If its come out of a wreck it may have been damaged, that will cause the crown wheel to go tight as the input shaft rotates and the teeth bind a little. Only real way to check it is to pull the centre and get out the feeler guages.
Im nobody, right?
And dont forget, nobody\'s perfect.

Pope Downunder

Quote from: "N8DC"Ok now its the rear brakes. I drove my 32 all last summer with out hardly any brakes like front only. I replaced the rear shoes this winter and everything looked good until today. The drums never felt right to me but they were supposed to be new. They always had a tight spot that I never could get  around when adjusting the shoes. Oh ya this is a ford 9 inch. and it had all new ford ranger 10x2 1/2 brakes on it.. The squeak from the brakes were thinking was in the front and the rear. Id adjusted the rears when i put the new shoes on but as i said it always had a tight spot on both sides. After a ride tonite we noticed the squeak remained and found out that it was in the rear. I jacked up the car and the dam drums were boiling and the paint is bubbling in a couple spots. I backed the shoes way off and we went for a short ride and noe you can feel the warped drums as it skips to a stop if you let it roll. Why is this thing doing this and how the heck do you adjust drum brakes if the drums wont roll even ? Im just about to look for a bolt on disk conversion but im sure this should work I just dunno why it isnt. Oh ya with both drums off the rear end and holding one axle while rotating the other the center section seems to have a sticky spot also? Its an open so Im assuming that it should roll free even while holding one of the axles.. Bad spyder gears and shaft maybe? Im thinking of just parking this dam thing and playing wiht the bike this summer.

I cant believe ive got 35k wrapped in this thing and a full summer of driving it and now this.................... :x
Dave

You saying that the brakes were new, but hardly worked all last summer?  That sounds like a brake balance problem.  Try larger rear wheel cylinders? Did you experience premature lock-up in the rain?

Yet; the rear shoes are worn out and the drums may be warped?  Brake shoes on the back of a rod should last for a long time.  This sounds like they were either adjusted way too tight, or they were dragging for some reason.

Sounds like (other post) you were planning of turfing the open centre in favour of a posi anyhow, so why are you stressing about a tight spot?  Doing one-wheel burnouts is hard on an open centre; probably cooked!

Dave

Quote from: "Pope Downunder"
Quote from: "N8DC"Ok now its the rear brakes. I drove my 32 all last summer with out hardly any brakes like front only. I replaced the rear shoes this winter and everything looked good until today. The drums never felt right to me but they were supposed to be new. They always had a tight spot that I never could get  around when adjusting the shoes. Oh ya this is a ford 9 inch. and it had all new ford ranger 10x2 1/2 brakes on it.. The squeak from the brakes were thinking was in the front and the rear. Id adjusted the rears when i put the new shoes on but as i said it always had a tight spot on both sides. After a ride tonite we noticed the squeak remained and found out that it was in the rear. I jacked up the car and the dam drums were boiling and the paint is bubbling in a couple spots. I backed the shoes way off and we went for a short ride and noe you can feel the warped drums as it skips to a stop if you let it roll. Why is this thing doing this and how the heck do you adjust drum brakes if the drums wont roll even ? Im just about to look for a bolt on disk conversion but im sure this should work I just dunno why it isnt. Oh ya with both drums off the rear end and holding one axle while rotating the other the center section seems to have a sticky spot also? Its an open so Im assuming that it should roll free even while holding one of the axles.. Bad spyder gears and shaft maybe? Im thinking of just parking this dam thing and playing wiht the bike this summer.

I cant believe ive got 35k wrapped in this thing and a full summer of driving it and now this.................... :x
Dave

You saying that the brakes were new, but hardly worked all last summer?  That sounds like a brake balance problem.  Try larger rear wheel cylinders? Did you experience premature lock-up in the rain?

Yet; the rear shoes are worn out and the drums may be warped?  Brake shoes on the back of a rod should last for a long time.  This sounds like they were either adjusted way too tight, or they were dragging for some reason.

Sounds like (other post) you were planning of turfing the open centre in favour of a posi anyhow, so why are you stressing about a tight spot?  Doing one-wheel burnouts is hard on an open centre; probably cooked!

Well with a 300 gear I cant even do a burnout with them big azzzzz tires I got  :cry:
Dave
ps: I just got done checking the axles and im suprised but they arent bent. The drums are flaky though and have been from day one. I wonder if they are making them in china too? Im headed out for new shoes and drums here soon.